Paul H Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Just getting round to setting up a compressor and coupling up an orbital sander to start work on a spare boot for my Vitesse . This is the first time I’ve ever used this equipment so my first newbie question What oil do I need for in-line lubrication ? Thanks in anticipation Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Most air tools just want a light oil - something like 3-in-1 is fine, and you only really need to dribble a little in from time to time. I don't use any fancy in-line oiler devices, just a few drops in the quick-release connector before use. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 You can get Air-tool Oil specifically made for the job, (Lucas and SIP sell their own brands) but whether it's any better than 3-in-1 is anybody's guess! I'm actually quite sore on air tools and rarely oil them, then I'll get guilty and give them a real soak and drain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 1 hour ago, Paul H said: Just getting round to setting up a compressor and coupling up an orbital sander to start work on a spare boot for my Vitesse . This is the first time I’ve ever used this equipment so my first newbie question What oil do I need for in-line lubrication ? Thanks in anticipation Paul Be careful after oiling a sander Paul, as it does chuck the oil out of it's exhaust and not good if you are going to spray soon after. Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 14 minutes ago, poppyman said: Be careful after oiling a sander Paul, as it does chuck the oil out of it's exhaust and not good if you are going to spray soon after. Tony. By exhaust do you mean dust extraction ? Which I haven’t got Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 No, Tony's right, and it's something I thought about earlier but of course never said anything - the air that drives the tools has to come out somewhere, all air tools will have an exhaust (on my die grinders it's a circular aperture around the input, and on the impact wrench it's a little grille on the end of the handle) and if there's oil in the air it too comes out and will spatter the area you're working on. It's happened to me before and it can cover quite an area. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 3 hours ago, Paul H said: By exhaust do you mean dust extraction ? Which I haven’t got Paul Sorry Paul, i thought you knew about it, I just didn't think to say. Depending on what air tool you use it will go anywhere from up your sleeve to over a panel. If you are spraying you will also need moisture traps and a regulator. It really depends what your plans are? Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 16 hours ago, poppyman said: Sorry Paul, i thought you knew about it, I just didn't think to say. Depending on what air tool you use it will go anywhere from up your sleeve to over a panel. If you are spraying you will also need moisture traps and a regulator. It really depends what your plans are? Tony. Hi Tony , thanks for advice , plan is to use my 100 litre , 3hp compressor with regulator for metal prep and hopefully spraying , currently using an orbital sander and multi tool to prepare a spare boot lid I bought some time ago . The boot is in good nick apart from surface rust . I plan to use Bilthamber products , cleaning, rust prep , electrux aerosol (zinc coating over prepared rust ) and their high build primer aerosol then cellulose ( club shop ) code 66 Valencia blue . The boot will not be complete paint strip just the rust and the odd deep scratch . I’m oiling the sander direct and saw the spray when first oiled 😨. When spraying celly is it best to have the moisture trap on the gun or compressor ? I have an HLVP gun came with the SGS compressor with 1.5 nozzle . Guess this gun won’t give a satisfactory finish ??? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 I have a separate air line for paint spraying as I found the general use one can get contaminated with oil. My moisture trap is at the compressor end, don't know if this is correct but works for me, used a gravity feed gun with a 1.8 nozzle when I sprayed my Vitesse with cellulose. Compressor a 3HP V twin direct drive 50 Litre tank which was marginal at keeping up with the gun your bigger tank should help. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 33 minutes ago, Paul H said: Hi Tony , thanks for advice , plan is to use my 100 litre , 3hp compressor with regulator for metal prep and hopefully spraying , currently using an orbital sander and multi tool to prepare a spare boot lid I bought some time ago . The boot is in good nick apart from surface rust . I plan to use Bilthamber products , cleaning, rust prep , electrux aerosol (zinc coating over prepared rust ) and their high build primer aerosol then cellulose ( club shop ) code 66 Valencia blue . The boot will not be complete paint strip just the rust and the odd deep scratch . I’m oiling the sander direct and saw the spray when first oiled 😨. When spraying celly is it best to have the moisture trap on the gun or compressor ? I have an HLVP gun came with the SGS compressor with 1.5 nozzle . Guess this gun won’t give a satisfactory finish ??? Paul Hi Paul, as above by Paul is perfect. I would try the gun with some paint on a scrap panel and see how it comes out? It's all down to practice really, once the paint is on you can flat it and polish it. I treated myself to an electric DA sander as you can use it on filler and for buffing and polishing. Another bonus is they are a lot quieter. They around the £100 mark, but its the best money i have spent Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 1, 2020 Report Share Posted April 1, 2020 I use a moisture trap at the gun to help with the risk of contamination in the hoses, or condensation in the pipe-work round the walls. Mine's a suction feed gun - not as good as a gravity one. I also have an HVLP but it needs a very different air supply to what the compressor gives, and the Apollo blower for it has expired. I found it gave decent results when it was working, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Hi. One or 2 DROPS, (3 in one, or sewing machine oil) no more into the Connection fitting on Air Tools, when you start, is all you will need. Many, but not all, modern compressors are "oil-less" But a good moisture trap is essential for spray work (ask me how I know!!), even so, drain the tank regularly. I got a Nice 5" DA Sander (cordless) from Aldi a year or 2 back. It has proved very useful. A spare battery would have been nice, But still. Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 3 hours ago, PeteH said: But a good moisture trap is essential for spray work (ask me how I know!!), even so, drain the tank regularly. Or sandblasting. You would not believe the amount of water that comes out of the drain on my compressor, and sometimes when blasting I can see the moisture spitting onto the bare metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 I have two moisture traps between the compressor tank and the blast cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 On 01/04/2020 at 15:46, 68vitesse said: I have a separate air line for paint spraying as I found the general use one can get contaminated with oil. My moisture trap is at the compressor end, don't know if this is correct but works for me, used a gravity feed gun with a 1.8 nozzle when I sprayed my Vitesse with cellulose. Compressor a 3HP V twin direct drive 50 Litre tank which was marginal at keeping up with the gun your bigger tank should help. Regards Paul Ideally you need the moisture trap a good distance from the compressor output as you need the air to cool sufficiently for the water to condense. My compressor sits in the far corner or my garage with a 10m output line which runs the length of the garage roof, before dropping down to waist height for the regulator/moisture trap. This allows the water to condense, and then gravity will make it flow down to the trap. I then have another 10m line to the paint gun, with a secondary moisture trap on the gun. Its amazing how much water a 3hp compressor can produce, all of which would be going into your paint if it weren’t filtered out. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 On 01/04/2020 at 15:46, 68vitesse said: I have a separate air line for paint spraying as I found the general use one can get contaminated with oil. My moisture trap is at the compressor end, don't know if this is correct but works for me, used a gravity feed gun with a 1.8 nozzle when I sprayed my Vitesse with cellulose. Compressor a 3HP V twin direct drive 50 Litre tank which was marginal at keeping up with the gun your bigger tank should help. Regards Paul Hi Paul . Your spray gun is it a branded make ? And with celly are you happy with the outcome ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Gun is Bergen so nothing special, yes very happy with the outcome first and only whole car respray I've done and has lasted a good few years. Only trouble I had was that I got the garage up to a reasonable temperature but the car had not warmed, up this let to blooming which was resolved with a cut and polish, should have used antibloom thinners or waited for a warmer day. Regards Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Hi Picked up a nice top fed gun from Aldi, last year, yet to use in anger but it looks well put together. What is useful is a simple "Pour point"? checker. Bit like a funnel which you time the mix through to get the correct consistency? haven't seen one in ages?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Yes, got one of those with the HVLP sprayer. Never used it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 The beauty with cellulose or 2k is its workability if you get a run or orange peel. You can flat it and polish. I always paint stuff with the garage heated and if its a small panel or upwards to say a Vespa body, I use a heat gun to warm the bodywork up first and always use antibloom thinners. The last two scooters Ive painted I didnt have to do a thing to the paintwork after spraying. Ill put a pic on of last one. Always have separate airlines for tools and spraygun, have my compressor in the shed at rea of garsge and water trap in garage mid airline feed before gun airline. Always use degreaser/panelwipe before painting, I always do this just before painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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