Colin Lindsay Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 If the rubber is ok leave it alone*. If the rubber is split or damaged a quantity of grease inside it may help it last slightly longer, but it'll eventually need replaced. If you need to replace it, as Wimpus says, look for a UJ version unless you specifically want to buy the proper replacement, if it's available - the same joint was used on the TR7 and you can still buy those new, so the Spitfire version may be available from suppliers. (*having said that, greasing the rubber may stop it drying out and splitting, if it hasn't already) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Thanks all, the rubber is like new so I will just grease that and paint up the propshaft leaving the cv joint alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 I have fitted some new universal joints.....GKN type with the grease nipple on the cross.....but the grease nipples don't fit properly, they will screw in a few turns but thats it. Does anyone know the correct thread for a uj grease nipple? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 16 hours ago, rozentas said: I have fitted some new universal joints.....GKN type with the grease nipple on the cross.....but the grease nipples don't fit properly, they will screw in a few turns but thats it. Does anyone know the correct thread for a uj grease nipple? It seems to vary, some imperial and some metric. But the nipple does not need to go in very far to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted February 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 Progress today IMG_0328.MOV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 5, 2021 Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 I hate to be the one to tell you this, but... YOU'VE BUILT THE CHASSIS UPSIDE DOWN!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted February 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 Yes......just having a piece of upside down cake with my tea.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 I am assembling the rear suspension using a nut and bolt kit from ANG which includes Nyloc nuts. Is it ok to use copper grease on these bolts when pressing them through the framework, and is it ok to use it on the bolts going through the rubber shock absorber bushings, they don’t have an inner metal tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 Yep, I use it on both. Stops the bolts seizing in the metal, in case you ever have to remove them again, and also helps prevent wear on the rubber shock mounts without attacking the rubber, and makes them easier to remove too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Put my hub flanges on, can’t get them to go on any further than the pictures show. Have not torqued them yet as a I think they should go on further than this with a little tapping. Have been hitting them hard and they will not go on any further. Any tips gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Those flanges look bent... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 yes certainly the first has suffered a lot☹️ Its so easily done as they are surprisingly flexible but really the nut done up to the correct torque should be enough to pull them into the correct place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Must have bent them while bracing to tighten the nut, will buy some new ones, any tips regarding fitting them so I don’t bend the new ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 I would say the bearing housings are on too far. put a drum on and take another photo, that will help show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 I thought the same but the distance from the end of the axle to the flinger at the back is 146 mm which it should be according to the manual. So the bearing housing must be in the right place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 we've had this before and I think the conclusion was that the manual has the wrong measurement so its best not to put the bearing housing on that far and then let the flange push it to the correct place as its nut is done up.... The flanges can be skimmed if not too badly bent, obviously with the studs removed first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Yes, agree with johny, forget that flinger measurement, it's nonsense. You put the bearing housing on "loosely" then fit the hub and tighten the nut. The hub will push the bearing housing to its correct location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 really need to put this recommendation somewhere prominent but how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Ok thanks. So I know how far to set everything should the outer edge of the axle, excluding the thread for the nut be level with the outer face of the flange so the washer is touching both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 If I pull the hub forward with the puller will it damage the bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 The workshop manual has a good sectioned drawing of the assembly and of course the nut/washer must never come to the end of the thread otherwise the flange/hub could be loose. Therefore the flange/hub must always protrude a little past the shoulder of the shaft while its inner face should be pushed up against the axle outer bearing. You should be able to tap the bearing housing back along the shaft as both bearings can slide ok. Remember to tap round 360º as much as possible and ideally with a soft metal rod... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 Bent a hub flange so ordered a new one from Spitbitz, seems to fit ok any idea what car the one on the right is from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 a later car the full wheel spigot was a evolution the three pronged was the early version you can get the bent hub drum face skimmed if you know someone with a decent lathe Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 So just to make sure I understand Pete, are you saying this is a spitfire flange from a later version car......mines a 1976? In other words I should be able to get one from eithe Spitbitz or the graveyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 Forgot to say I put new studs in my existing bent flange and it will no longer go through the brake drum because the studs are not square so I guess I will have to get a replacement, only £20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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