Rabbit Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Way back in the mid 50s, my James Cadet motor cycle rear swing arm was 'similar'? to this set yup. It seized up. My journeyman (I was an apprentice. dismantled it, cursed with comments like crap design etc, took it to his workshop, drilled down from both ends and then cross drilled into the drill hole, fitted grease nipples each end and re-assembled after filling with grease. Pump some in every few months 'boy' and it will never seize again. If you ever see TRP849 (I think) check the swing arm. Just a thought for trunnion bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 the bolt greasing only helps remove a rusty one , the bolt must be tight this locks the bush crush tube and the bushes rotate around the tube the bolt and tube should not rotate . drilling to grease the bush on its tube could be fun Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 4 hours ago, Roger K said: The real world, with traffic jams, weather extremes, 12 months between services etc. is a far harsher environment than any race track 3 hours ago, Peter Truman said: he Herald/Spit front upright was also used by Brabham in his Formulea 1 cars, If my memory serves me well my Lotus Europa utilised Spitfire uprights and trunnions; those bits did not fail and that was running from Rosyth Dockyard to London the weekends not at sea. At the rear the stub axles were courtesy of the Hillman Imp. LOTUS - Lots Of Trouble Usually expensive was frequently voiced by others. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Pete is right about drilling. The bolt must be tight but my thought was that if the grease came through onto the nylon bushes, then they would be a lot easier to remove as usually the bolt rusts up and grips the top hats and makes it nigh on impossible to just push or drift the bolt out. I regularly (yearly) remove bolt, clean any rust off surface, re-grease and replace, all part of running an older car. I HAVE, in the past, had great fun removing a reticent bolt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted January 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the bolt greasing only helps remove a rusty one , the bolt must be tight this locks the bush crush tube and the bushes rotate around the tube the bolt and tube should not rotate . drilling to grease the bush on its tube could be fun Pete I'm going to have to redo my rear trunnion block. The steel tube sits about 3mm in from the ends of the nylon pieces and is too short. I've got a poly set now with a correct length stainless tube, and none of the washers or seals. I'm not convinced they achieve anything anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Who did you buy the poly from? I might invest in two for the latest project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Seems to me its not the poly thats the important bit but the stainless tube and I wonder if its a size thats available from metal stockists... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted January 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Who did you buy the poly from? I might invest in two for the latest project. James Paddock. Yet to fit them, mind.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 28, 2021 Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 Im sure they dont recommend poly on the front trunnion as if too squidgy you have less control of the stub axle not such a problem with the rears but these bushes do have to take all road load deflections you might punch a poly to bits where as the solid might seize but wont get squidged to bits Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 28, 2021 Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: Im sure they dont recommend poly on the front trunnion as if too squidgy you have less control of the stub axle If they're red poly they'll be solid enough; far more so than the blues. I'm interested in giving them a try on the convertible which certainly won't be raced or rallied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 28, 2021 Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 Yes red back and front from Paddocks at a total cost of 44 pounds plus VAT and Del. As a comparison standard items would 18.40+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Brief update: I bolted up the trunnionless 'trunnion' to the lower wishbone, then attached the shock absorber mount to ensure fit was correct and placed the 'trunnion' in position so the flat sides were parallel to the lower wishbone. I then ran a weld along each side at the top, and a couple on the underside. I'll have the bolt in there as well, but I think this'll do the job neatly. Photo, in etch primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Hi Roger, I am very impressed with your welding. I wish I could do such things. As the item has only one bolt securing it is it OK for it to be welded in a fixed position? I do not know the structure so just asking. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 19 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Roger, I am very impressed with your welding. I wish I could do such things. As the item has only one bolt securing it is it OK for it to be welded in a fixed position? I do not know the structure so just asking. Roger It should be, as far as I can see. The bolt is designed to hold the structure together, not to pivot. The spherical bearing allows full range of movement of the vertical link - I've checked with a mock-up. Thanks for the comments! I've been doing it a long time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 1 hour ago, RogerH said: Hi Roger, I am very impressed with your welding. I wish I could do such things. As the item has only one bolt securing it is it OK for it to be welded in a fixed position? I do not know the structure so just asking. Roger It is a nice weld. I have seen that done before, although in practice the bearing housing does not seem to move. I certainly can't see any witness mark on mine. Equally, there is no downside, unless a wishbone gets damaged. But then it is just a case of a new housing or 20 mins with the grinder. I am tempted to follow suit.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 17 hours ago, Roger K said: Brief update: I bolted up the trunnionless 'trunnion' to the lower wishbone, then attached the shock absorber mount to ensure fit was correct and placed the 'trunnion' in position so the flat sides were parallel to the lower wishbone. I then ran a weld along each side at the top, and a couple on the underside. I'll have the bolt in there as well, but I think this'll do the job neatly. Definitely impressive! But: you're sure the movement that would be provided by the lower trunnion pivoting on the original bush and bolt setup isn't required? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 no, its a rose joint with pivoting ball that connects to the new upright under that piece of masking paper in the photo and that allows all the movement required for full suspension travel. Really its just converting to a ball joint at the bottom like moderns... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger K Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 As Johny said. I've checked it through full travel. I'll report back further when I get it all together again and can check for camber and castor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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