Pete Lewis Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 well maybe , its a split bush it should .......move under its own steam............it just allows for case expansion Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 Ahh!. Light Bulb time. I am guessing now that said owner in my quote, had NOT fitted the bush?. But was unaware of the need for allowance for thermal expansion?. And Haynes, at least, fail to mention it?. Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 its only on rear of 3 lug mounts if the main is a full length solid casting it generally doesnt need one Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted August 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 On 13/08/2021 at 12:22, Pete Lewis said: do make sure the tail lug has the tube spacer midway on the suppoert lug so there is some shft allowed due to heat expansion its an important little bush 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: yes the rea lug on this vintage alternator has a slidding tube/bush but Robs was stuck solid Out of curiousity, is this the spacer you are referring to? Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 Yes, that's the one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted August 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 Also, as an update to an earlier suggestion that I remove the washers that are packing out my adjuster bracket, so that it sits comfortably in front of the alternator. Then resite the bracket on the other side of the mounting hole on the alternator casing and secure it flush to the engine block without the washers. I unbolted it all and loosely tried this but I found that the adjuster bracket would have to be bent backwards for it to work like this, so I've reinstated it as below. It lines up and works, so it will do for me. As an aside, I checked the adjuster bracket whilst it was off and if it appears bent or kinked in my pictures I can confirm that this is an optical illusion and it is flat. Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 1 hour ago, jagnut66 said: I unbolted it all and loosely tried this but I found that the adjuster bracket would have to be bent backwards for it to work like this Interesting. My Spitfire has a dynamo-style bracket fitted that way - no packing and sits behind the alternator lug - and it's a perfect fit. How is the alignment of your pulleys? It's probably an illusion but the belt looks to be running on the front of the alternator pulley and the back of the water pump. If so, perhaps you could pack the alternator bottom fixing to move it forward a tiny bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted August 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 2 minutes ago, NonMember said: It's probably an illusion but the belt looks to be running on the front of the alternator pulley and the back of the water pump Just an illusion (not the song by 'Imagination', anyone remember them? Did one very good album then...... nothing...... I digress...) the pullies seem to line up fine. I have a white(ish) plastic Spitfire fan fitted, that might be altering perception a bit, maybe? Best wishes, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 16, 2021 Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 On 19/08/2021 at 09:24, Pete Lewis said: come on Colin you ought to know that blindfold Ha ! Pete Strangely enough all of the alternators in the above photos, bar the adjustable bracket, have the adjuster in front... but if I do that with a standard Lucas alternator it sits too far back and the pulleys are not in line. I spent yesterday and this morning trying alternative solutions; it seems the best option is a cranked bracket that sits in behind the alternator. I can't move the alternator any further forward as the spacers etc are all in the correct order and I've already had to add more spacers at the front end to get the pulleys in line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnut66 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2021 7 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: I spent yesterday and this morning trying alternative solutions I am now of the opinion that it's a case of whatever works for you. So long as the pullies line up and the belt can be adjusted as required, then that's all that matters. Best wishes, Mike. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 Mike +1 for that there that old saying All My own Work Ha Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 Well, there's my way, and the proper way, and even the manual way... and sometimes they're not similar. I've managed to get the pulleys more or less in line by skimming down another spacer which means that the adjuster is now definitely behind the alternator lug. All I need to do now is identify the best fanbelt; the Herald 1025 no longer fits and I reckon the Spitfire 1050 still leaves the alternator too close to the block. Might try a 1070 or 1080 if I can find a suitable one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 I think I see the sliding sleeve at the rear of the engine bracket so there is no compression/twisting or shearing load on the rear alt fixing, which could easily shear if simply clamped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 17, 2021 Report Share Posted November 17, 2021 There's about 2mm of it in there, just the angle makes it difficult to spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 18, 2021 Report Share Posted November 18, 2021 I do find that the "correct" belt for a later Spitfire is really a bit short. I thought about using a GT6 one but that's a little on the long side, especially for the standard adjuster bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdaley Posted April 30 Report Share Posted April 30 Ok gentle4men, now you have all listed what went wrong and how you solved it, what should a newcomer in Australia purchase to change from the dynamo to an alternator. \ I see you have used all sorts of alternators as well/ Is there a cleqr path for me please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 30 Report Share Posted April 30 To make things as simple as can be, and there are so many permutations out there, I just go for a 'Triumph' alternator ie any Lucas alternator that was designed for our cars back in the day and this includes the uprated versions marketed by reputable suppliers, or else what looks like good second-hand that has been tested working. That way I usually remove the requirement for specially-made brackets arms and shims that Japanese versions etc require. I've pinched this photo from Rimmers' website of the kit they supply. You'll need a mounting bracket, (the large black item in the photo) as the dynamo one is different, and an adjuster arm - I see theirs is stepped to permit proper alignment, plus a spacer and long bolt. I've never used the electrical connector blocks, the old loom usually just plugs straight into the end. After that, just adapt the wiring at the control box end, either internally using the box as a period-looking spare key holder or else remove it altogether and just connect the wires together. It's been years since I did this last but disconnect the black earth lead and tie it up / insulate it to prevent shorts. Connect the small brown + green and yellow + green leads together. All other leads, all the brown and the large brown + yellow lead should be connected together. It's well documented all over the Net, not so much now as many cars have been converted over the years and so not so many left to convert. (Same as the +ve to -ve earth conversion, not so common now as it used to be.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 30 Report Share Posted April 30 Jdaley I see your in Bendigo do you know Andy Ansell used to run a local Triumph repair Co in Kangaroo Flats, he’s now retired. He may give tech advice on what and where to get the items and how to do Give me a ring off line Mb 0418368093 if you want to discuss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 30 Report Share Posted April 30 10 hours ago, jdaley said: Ok gentle4men, now you have all listed what went wrong and how you solved it, what should a newcomer in Australia purchase to change from the dynamo to an alternator. \ I see you have used all sorts of alternators as well/ Is there a cleqr path for me please? Dont fancy a little lightweight 40amp Denso alternator then? Seems an easy change and the genuine ones have a good reputation for reliability... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdaley Posted April 30 Report Share Posted April 30 Had not thought about it much, whicH model DENSO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted May 1 Report Share Posted May 1 Hello All This is mine on Spitty and you can get a No1 plug easy! Make sure you get a genuine one not a chink one! Roger ps there are 2 different types of plugs one on the back and one like this one and this is the 40amp one which is plenty for most uses? pps I run ITB EFI so the fuel pump is running all the time at about 6 to 8 amps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 1 Report Share Posted May 1 (edited) Yes 40a unit as used on kubota diggers, Diahatsu and micro cars, 2.8kg.... Edited May 1 by johny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted May 1 Report Share Posted May 1 5 hours ago, johny said: Yes 40a unit as used on kubota diggers, Diahatsu and micro cars, 2.8kg.... Hello All Another reason I went for this type is I can get one easy if it fails when touring Spain etc? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdaley Posted May 1 Report Share Posted May 1 A lightweight 40 amp Denso alternator is priced at $A420 here, I will look for something else to fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted May 2 Report Share Posted May 2 Hello John This is the type about half your price?? Not sure if it is a Denso?) Compact Lightweight 40 Amp Alternator (carbuilder.com) Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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