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The joys of the D-i-y mechanic.


Wagger

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This week I bought a battery, oil filter and oil for the main car. Oil service was 400 miles overdue and the battery kept running down every two weeks.

Oli change was going well until I discovered that the filter had been over-tightened by a Gorilla. It is supposed to be torqued to 2.5lb max. This was 25lb! Anyway, I have sockets up to 32mm A/F, this one was 35mm! Toolmaker's clamp and hammer would not shift it, neither would a giant adjustable. 

Luckily for me, our 'Close' has three other 'Petrol heads' living here so I saw the nearest one arrive home and 'Pestered' him. Well, it was my turn.

He found me a ring spanner and it did the job. That was another 3 hour task that should have taken one hour max.

In contrast, today I swapped the battery in one hour, even doing it as described below because disconnecting it requires the resetting procedure at the main dealer.

Some of you will know all of this, but, here goes:-

Start car before removing all necessary to access the battery. This stops the interior lights flattening it. (yup, it was that bad).

Remove battery from Vitesse and connect it to the jump start terminals. 

Run engine for a further 2 mins, then switch off.

Disconnect main battery, tie leads back and remove it.

Put new battery into location and fit the leads. Remove jump leads from Vitesse battery.

Refit all else.

It all worked without any warning lights initially, then right rear brake light failure and indicator failure showed up. 'B****r it' I exclaimed  thinking the worst. Luckily the cause was that I had caught a loom when fitting the new battery because it is bigger and strained a connector. Had to use a small self tapper to keep a 'Now fractured' connector in place. Oh well. Happy days.

 

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On some moderns you have to remove the headlamp, and even the front wing. My daughter has a Fiesta and the battery is accessible enough, but her radio loses the bluetooth connection every so often and the recommended action is to disconnect the battery, give it five minutes then reconnect. Even with everything turned off, I still get sparks when I reconnect the terminal. Too many gadgets in cars these days!

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There was I am sure at one time a device you plugged into the Cigar lighter socket, assuming it was permanently live of course, connected to a 12V source it would keep the circuits, radio etc alive. My Peugeot 107, has a small "visor sized" solar panel permanently wired to the battery, it`s just enough to replace the ghost drains even at this time of year.

This:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carpoint-CPT0635870-Computer-Memory-Saver/dp/B0044DDOQG/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=car+memory+saver&qid=1643903372&sr=8-8

EDIT: This was interesting if not actually "retro":- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083DRPYR5/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AQ5C63WVMR7DB&psc=1

Pete

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Our Renault's battery will die exactly 22 days if I don't drive it.

They cannot figure it out.

Partly because a new battery wipes the memory or something.

There is some sort of circuit that does not allow you to jump start it.

I thought the ADAC (I think you call  it AA) guy was taking the P!$& when he said I had to walk away from the car so it would lock. come back, open the door, with the door open press the car card against the start button and hold it for ten seconds, then walk away from the car, hook up the battery, wait 10 seconds and then try to start it...

MAD
 

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15 hours ago, DVD3500 said:

Partly because a new battery wipes the memory or something.

I thought they had got beyond that?. My early Vauxhaul (GM) Astra, had that issue, every time you shut down, the memory records where lost. But later cars retain "flash" memory and could still be interrogated via the OBDI port. Some to the extent that if you swapped out an engine the ECU had to go with it!. Happened with a FIat Punto I had, swapped engines and had to use the ECU from the donor.

Vehicle battery locations are a nightmare. Fiat (Ducato) are under the cab floor with the Air bag ECU on top, has to be (carefully) removed to swap a a battery. The Sprinter one is likewise under the floor, Many are boxed in under driver/passenger seats, especially on vans. Getting them out without dead shorting the terminals is "tricky"

Pete.

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Battery??!! Engine??!! On my old modern, I never saw the engine or the battery in all the 10 years +, that I had it. I assume that it had both somewhere as it did run very well. As for the replacement, just like the old one. Someone splashed emulsion paint on the front the other day and I had to clean it. Grrr, now how does that work...what sponge...what bucket????

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

remember the rear seats on  old mini travellers shorting the battery terminals when the cover was missed out 

Pete

 

Makes heated seats a doddle eh? My bruv's 1936 Austin Ten had a 6v battery under both front seats. Heating provided by the crankcase breather! 4 out of ten of us have made it to 70+. A miracle really.

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3 hours ago, PeteH said:

I thought they had got beyond that?. My early Vauxhaul (GM) Astra, had that issue, every time you shut down, the memory records where lost. But later cars retain "flash" memory and could still be interrogated via the OBDI port. Some to the extent that if you swapped out an engine the ECU had to go with it!. Happened with a FIat Punto I had, swapped engines and had to use the ECU from the donor.

Vehicle battery locations are a nightmare. Fiat (Ducato) are under the cab floor with the Air bag ECU on top, has to be (carefully) removed to swap a a battery. The Sprinter one is likewise under the floor, Many are boxed in under driver/passenger seats, especially on vans. Getting them out without dead shorting the terminals is "tricky"

Pete.

It is the 'Disconnection' that loses info. There is a big label on the boot floor "Warning, the system will need initialisation if the battery is disconnected'. That could mean all service data, ault logging or radio coding, That is why I did it 'My Way'. Other have just swapped the battery and ended up with ABS failure lamp on.

I have to run my cars into extinction so have to revert to d-i-y. This one is 2007 with only 120k on it. Another 150k to go possibly.

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58 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Battery??!! Engine??!! On my old modern, I never saw the engine or the battery in all the 10 years +, that I had it. I assume that it had both somewhere as it did run very well.

I know my modern has them, under the bonnet, as I've seen them when I, occasionally, top up the washer liquid. 

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3 hours ago, PeteH said:

I thought they had got beyond that?. My early Vauxhaul (GM) Astra, had that issue, every time you shut down, the memory records where lost. But later cars retain "flash" memory and could still be interrogated via the OBDI port. Some to the extent that if you swapped out an engine the ECU had to go with it!. Happened with a FIat Punto I had, swapped engines and had to use the ECU from the donor.

Vehicle battery locations are a nightmare. Fiat (Ducato) are under the cab floor with the Air bag ECU on top, has to be (carefully) removed to swap a a battery. The Sprinter one is likewise under the floor, Many are boxed in under driver/passenger seats, especially on vans. Getting them out without dead shorting the terminals is "tricky"

Pete.

I would have thought that as well Pete. But I am not allowed to choose where my car gets service (company car) and the devil in my thinks the workshop gets more for tearing out gubbins and replacing than actually trying to figure out the issue.

I had a problem with the seat sometimes not moving forward when I got in and shut the door. Again, they seemed clueless.

I got fed up looked under the seat and found the motor responsible for the movement and told them to replace it...

Voilà no more probs...

 

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Previous car had a full pan roof. Never again on a 'Modern'. All sorts of electrical issues one of which was the seat setting itself full forward and tipping into the steering wheel. Could not get into it and reach all of the switches.

Removed all floor bungs and sat it in the sun through a hot spell, then exchanged it for one without the pan roof. The Vitesse has a full Sunroof too. Al floor bungs are removed on that also.

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1 minute ago, Stratton Jimmer said:

My 2008 Jazz 1200 is still on its original battery which has never required any top up charge and has been used for jump starting other vehicles. I don't know how they do it!

 

I had a BOSCH 100ahr battery in a 330D BMW that lasted 14 years at 15,000 miles per year. It then ran a UPS for another 2 years. Went flat just once when the alternator failed. It was used to start other cars too. Use is the key with discharge listening to radio whilst wifey is shopping for an hour.

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6 hours ago, Wagger said:

It is the 'Disconnection' that loses info. There is a big label on the boot floor "Warning, the system will need initialisation if the battery is disconnected'. That could mean all service data, ault logging or radio coding, That is why I did it 'My Way'. Other have just swapped the battery and ended up with ABS failure lamp on.

I have to run my cars into extinction so have to revert to d-i-y. This one is 2007 with only 120k on it. Another 150k to go possibly.

I had reason to take the seats out of the Sprinter, ended up with a Failure light due to unplugging the seat wiring. Mercedes wanted £80+VAT to check and delete. Knowing I had to do the other seat later on. I went out an Bought an OBDI reader and reset them myself. Used it since several times on that and on another car, so far I am ahead of the game cost wise.

Pete

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47 minutes ago, PeteH said:

I had reason to take the seats out of the Sprinter, ended up with a Failure light due to unplugging the seat wiring. Mercedes wanted £80+VAT to check and delete. Knowing I had to do the other seat later on. I went out an Bought an OBDI reader and reset them myself. Used it since several times on that and on another car, so far I am ahead of the game cost wise.

Pete

On all BMW's up to 2007, the service items are all reset-able via the Odometer reset button. You need to know how, but trial and error worked for me. You just plug in the key, not touch anything, wait for the service light to appear then hold the Odometer reset in until he appropriate item appears. You then release the button, wait for 'Reset' to appear then push once more. It is tedious if several items need doing, but usually quicker than using the reset tool. Costs nothing either.

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1 hour ago, Wagger said:

On all BMW's up to 2007, the service items are all reset-able via the Odometer reset button. You need to know how, but trial and error worked for me. You just plug in the key, not touch anything, wait for the service light to appear then hold the Odometer reset in until he appropriate item appears. You then release the button, wait for 'Reset' to appear then push once more. It is tedious if several items need doing, but usually quicker than using the reset tool. Costs nothing either.

Some of the Sprinter ones are too. But the Airbag light is not, and the Seat belt warning light, (SRS) which is what I had, will not self/onboard reset either. So sadly I was between a rock and a hard place!.😒

Pete

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15 hours ago, PeteH said:

Some of the Sprinter ones are too. But the Airbag light is not, and the Seat belt warning light, (SRS) which is what I had, will not self/onboard reset either. So sadly I was between a rock and a hard place!.😒

Pete

Yup, those need a visit from my son with his laptop. He is 480 miles away, so twice yearly pre-mot time.

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My modern is now telling me it wants a service! The last one was April last year and only 5K kilometres done. It determines the service interval depending on the type of use. I have either been thrashing it or not doing long distances. The second. all it has done since April is a trip to Brittany and local runs, 10 to 15kms each way plus 3 round trips to Bagnoles de L'Orne (168 kms each time). Do I service it or tell the computer to 'go away'? Second option for the moment I think.

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55 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

What's your modern, Chris? They all have ways of cancelling the service warning.

Skoda Yeti, because I like the name, I have a note in the handbook on how to do it & have done it in the past. Just haven't got round to it yet 🤫

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Merc; Sprinter (typical of many cars/vans)

  1. Insert key in the ignition and turn to position II.
  2. Press the menu buttons. ...
  3. Press up arrow until you see Service A in xxx miles or Service B in xxx miles.
  4. Press the 0 reset button on the side of the instrument cluster and hold until you hear a beep.

Pete.

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When I changed my oil, it became black as soon as I ran the engine straight afterwards. This suggests that the PO or dealer had reset all without doing the job. I'll change it again after another 1000 miles. That will be around May.

What is really required is an oil condition sensor.

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