Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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the basic prop and drive shaft uj is common across the small chassis range this is where Garth would have been useful !!!!
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like lots of thongs keep em shut !!!! Pete
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sounds like youve been sold a 121997 sender for old moving iron gauges not the GTR108 you need for bimetal stabilised mix and match the two very different systems and you get high readings all the time ... seen one guy changed his engine on the old forum for this cock up pete
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Just your legs ??? pete
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No I never did close ups , and these wont be a 'seminar' more a friendly twiddle and eplaination day out to show some of the basics to those who need a little nudge to give the confidence to DIY and dispel any dark art myths If anyone finds something to record onnthe day feel free. pete
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Its been said on here few times , we decided to make a start but to cover all it will take days of outakes and editing ive made a good few in house traing and information videos in the past and sorry the time it takes is not available , well not from me in fact my damped tripod is still lurking at hq somewhere from when Garth Ray and myself made a start a couple of years ago... its like setting this idea up, the best intentions get hijacked and a day on the drive now means I have to go to hq, so be it , lets see what we can achieve , but any filming can fall on someone else youtube look at RB44 production video and theres a copy of what pair of cowboys did with a camera a editing video but no TV And titles made with toy letters pulled across the floor we did this back in 1990 ish so I wont volunteer now even though you can do it on a phone now. pete
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I will keep my ears open he has two cars and cant work on any I get involved and desperate to reduce the can you do this for me calls one car make a 50% improvement , its a pretty tidy car in white , certainly not rusty and brilliant chassis i will make some subtle enquires and let you know Pete
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read the manual on strap drive props the spigot needs some grease and they can make wonderfull vibrations -
i would stick to our club classifieds which tend to be sales of loved cars rather than trader out heaps I have a members 13/60 Conv. in pretty good condition but its down in sunny and wet bedforshire that a member will be putting up for sale any time soon, need some odd jobs but clean and pretty rust free pete
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certainly needs 8 best idea is to dump it and get a proper with two UJ and telescopic Pete
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I dont understand you should not have any welded plate the front support is bolted onto the diff not welded !!! what shims on the propshaft is this whats known as the dreaded a strap drive or it has a telescopic slide ??? pete
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Sorry 24th is pistons and props at sywell and 10th I run Duxford.....come there you have to buy a bun to get a solution session. pete
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Dont remember but you may get better access with the front support plate removed ?? many seals have a metal outer case, this has to be removed, normally it all comes out omplete the replacement is likely to be plastic .. Pete
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Dont forget club shoe sell discs pads and shoes
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over 70 naughty !!! whine is often bearings rather than mesh the tail pinion is the first to suffer from low oil starvation the inner goes with age as this takes all the load thrust, as they wear the pinion mesh will change if its quite overrun but howls on drive , its likely you need new pinion bearings , some change in the mounting height would also be a thought if noisy on over run i would remove a shim from behind the outer brg, and re test on drive ..not much you can DIY without some equipment or good luck . Pete
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to get the + _ postions you need to run the set on a Gleason tester, probably all been scrapped now, this gives the mount height best run position error and should be etched on the end of the pinion the WSM gives a good clue about the contact postions and what you need to change to correct it theres the mounting distance of the projected cone from the CW centre line and the backlash which needs a DTI perpendicular to the tooth to measure the CW lash or you ramp the measure up due to the tooth angle running just up from the toe and not as as far as central is to me about right, under load the mark will move up the tooth.
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I changed the tiny type 12s on my Vit6 for type 16s + mintex1144 + servo .......... this stops making quick stops or heading at speed into a roundabout with 12s and greenstuff proved bowel enlightening std 12 pads just created wind, something had to change ....not the pants the result with 16s+mintex +servo = raised eyebrows at the MOT when the caliper capacity on type 16 or thereabouts the master cyl was increased from 0.625 to 0.7" you could reduced pedal pressure / increase line pressure ...but increase the stroke by fitting the smaller master cyl . care taken with this idea in certain poor circumstances you can run out of travel
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There should be pre load on the pinion and diff case bearings , that can make turning by hand a firm dead feeling , the planets and sun gears dont have a pre load between them but if the tooth backlash has been set to a minimum then working a output shaft again is not an easy spin, diffs transmit a lot of energy you dont want slack anything the pre loads are there to maintain all the mounting distance settings , under drive , coast and overun loads or you get a symphony of whines pete
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Dont lsd have a lot of pinion free play/ like excessive backlash ?? certainly was on trucks , you could hear it engage with a good clang pete
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Ive not given it a thought, but so long as the stat has a jiggle pin to let any air out and fill with it running I never cooked my Vit6 and with danny hopkins of PC confirming he wasnt expecting that when he drove mine back from stafford I wont print the speed we got up to she never got above N on the gauge ever whether there was any in the stat hsg will remain lifes mystery just stick to brakes ha !! pete
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Husky the original MPV ahead of its time I have a long family Rootes background and me being of Commer vintage
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rh thread i only do paint with rollers we used Marine Epoxy on panel repairs on odd bits of the vIt6 and thats water proof , and very tough. takes some sanding but doesn't blow and drop out or make water bubbles like p38 and others we once painted sons nappy yellow mini bright red and white roof with Japlac with brush and roller done in a morning some spirit to thin a tad and wow a result ........sponge roller gives a nice orange peel
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Two bolts thro the coupling and a lever jammed in to hold any rotation , the nut is not gorrila tight but trying to wind up the transmission looses all your input effort torque is 70 -85lbft the coupling should come off easy maybe a light mallet. take care hooking the old seal out dont nadger the bearing roller race cage behind it With all flanges give the mating faces a run with a file to make sure there are no burrs or bruises from any previous hammer ingress most important they are FLAT pete
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Have to say whilst I understand the what and why you need some small end float on many bearing set ups ...rota flex is a job I have never had to tackle pete
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Many trucks have bleed caps to let air out of hight problem areas often inserted in a hose. I think you will find it all levels out ok if you fill up with engine running the pump is realy a circulator if theres a air gap it may as your concerns fail to work as they tend to rely on the suck being the same as the push. Same as central heating circulator. but when you have driiled a hole in it and found coolant you could fit a nice plug Pete
