Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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And going bigger wont kmprove its life the whole of the cell structure needs to be used and charged and discharged to keep it working , so capacity is a balance it needs to work or it dies dont know aboout calcium ones
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Just to follow on , hydraulics suffer wear and corrosion, itsnworth looking at the master cylinder atbthe same time , you press the pedal the fluid transmitts the pressure to the slave and that operates the mechanism inside the cltuch housing when you take your foot off the clutch should push the slave back and return the fluid to the reservoir in the master cyl is a small seal on the end of the seal assy that coveres the reservoir port when you first press the pedal if this is deformed or degraded it can stop the fluid return and the slave stays put holds the clutch disengaged and pressure buils up in the system so strip the master out and fit a kit while your in bits
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good when the simple tests reveal the culprit its always having to think outside the box where these bright ideas build .
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Who supplies of the best quality panels?
Pete Lewis replied to Captain's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
also ask TD fItchetts they have more tooling than most and many genuine triumph OE panels in stock depends what you need and who's got what -
if it was their advice to order the two options then someone has misguided you ,, its obvious you cant fit both try moving up the line of command and get them to explain how you fit both pete
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horn is on the same feed as interior lamp,, i would start there as for usa spec fuses , no idea this is the review copy from the halfords 35amp glass fuses so this seems to imply you need 17 not 35 ..how do you tell what spec they are copyI assume most people who buy this product are doing so because they have a classic car. Most British cars of the 50's, 60's & 70's used these fuses. The problem arises because the original Lucas product (part no. 188218) fuses are 35 amps and 17.5 continuous (the "holding" current). The original fuse will blow at 35 amps. The Halfords fuse uses the USA method and is rated at 35 amps and is continuous at 35, so it will not blow until it is well over that, probably 70A - which means it will do damage to your car.
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so youve gone for the 1st pic option ??
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there should be a soft spring inside to keep the piston in contact with the pushrod when foot is off there should be no real load between push rod and piston just the light action of the inside spring, , was there any force trying to push the slave off when you removed it ? if you pump the pedal the piston should travel (takes a few pumps) to the end of its travel, you should then be able to prod it back inside and push the piston back to the rear end of the cylinder , the fluid returning to the reservoir. and to add with the slave out of the housing does it get any drive ??? as said remove ht lead and crank it up in gear does she move ??? if it does then your problem is with the slave Pete
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think we are all a bit puzzled .................was it this or was it
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the thread is 5/8unf tightening 100-110 lbft. next time turn up a collar to slip over the end of the thread Pete
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i expect to cover both makes on twiddle day i always say lay the component parts out on a plain paper and look at the design and reliability , one is engineered one is a load of levers and bits leave you to work out which i prefer, both capable of doing a good job you either love em or hate em , normally due to misguided myths and fumblings rather than proper experience who said that guess who bought a 2000 with ruddy HS4 s on it Ha Pete
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both 13/60 amd MK IV use the same exhaust manifold and gasket so thats all compatible 4 2 1 tubular primaries wont connect to a std exhaust there can be very different size. and lengths likewise a semi sport down pipe and rear end may need some modifications to get it to match you need all of one design not mix and match as usually ..they dont and they needs a bit of fiddling . so regardless of a GE numbered block the std MKIV or semi sports should pop straight on so long as its one or the other . not bits of both Pete
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is the existing exhaust manifold a triangle gasket and single pipe or does it have a two pipe downpipe flange ?? the fact the block is ex herald is of little effect its the bits that got bolted too it thats the what why how . i take it it still has spitfire twin SU carbs and manifold ??? or is it 13/60 single stromberg ??? Pete
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Im sure tablets are designed to change spaces for letters and never type like wot I wrote paddocks are generally very good , your mix and match engine probably upsets the normal, ie does it have a spitfife exhaust manifold or a 13/60 did they change over most ancilliaries when fittings the GE base engine this would make simplemthings like the WP and manifolding alien to the supposed model suppliers would have no idea Pete
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While the tanks out check the rubber olive in the suction pipe union where it pivots if its stuffed yoj can use a short bit of fuel hose as an olive /gland pete
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If its letting oil from around the nipple the gun is not aligned , or the wrong nipple has been fitted the wanner should lock on and seal when aligned ok, the rears spec is 4 pumps at service , it overflows into the brake and excess drains from a catcher via a hole in the back plate, there is a seal in the inboard the seal is fitted to let grease out down the shaft but not let water in, its as if reversed, so excess grease will appear on the drive shaft too much can lead to greased brake shoes
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Gwp 200 is std pump herald and spit to mk3 a mkIV and 1500 non viscous driven uses gwp128 the base pump is the same I can only guess theres some small change to the pulley used or some change in offset to align belts dont think the fan bolt centres changed , Sorry not much help you could have a GE engine with mkIV pump and hsg, fitted pete
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Ok thats clear , You have a clutch which does not pass any drive to the gearbox, maybe just a hint to give the drive line a a slight nudge this is down to the clutch slipping and can be a variety of ideas the disc is worn out completely the slave cylinder is siezed and holding the clutch disengaged the withdrawl lever has a problem the clutch disc hub has fractured Simple test If you remove the slave from the gearbox , remove Coil HT so it wont start, put in gear and crank does it now attempt to move. ?...problem is hydraulics If the problem remains then its time to remove the gearbox and check the clutch and its bearing and levers
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Ok if you are in gear the prop is not rotating engine idling ..... so you have a slipping clutch this can be the hydraulics are holding the clutch disengaged so there is no drive to the gearbox then to complicate thoughts you mention it wont go in gear will it engage a gear engine off but not engage engine running, which now means the clutch is Not clearing we then have the opposite of ....slipping all sounds a bigger problem is appearing pete
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No wrong side of car, the pin is vertical and drivers side You must tell us if the prop shaft is turning with , in gear engine running hand brake on foot off clutch yes or no pete
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I have suggested 17th September, Bern says he can lay on lunch £3.50 this need approval by the COM to open up HQ but this is the idea so far for a light hearted twiddle day at HQ obvious you have wait till the whole arrangement is given the green light i can add the final idea on here and guess Bern will Courier it ,if theres time to edit it in, and he can do face book (Idont) so this is to wet the appetite..... hopefully we can have a few troubled cars and owners to see how this goes this wont be over comprehensive ,there a limit on what you can do away from home but good sound simple basics to follow to achieve a result as triumph intended. hopefully this will give you experience to twiddle with confidence , it will be your hands on with guidance from Herts and Beds being Me and Ray my base thoughts are ....... carburettor setting and operations tappets, feelers or click adjust timing, strobe or pilot lamp wiper lost travel rack rotation toe in the easy way two sticks and a tape measure how synchromesh works.. any other business Pete to show and explain the how and why and drink coffee
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If the legs wont grip , you can undo the clamps and lower the column outer tube and gives space to locate a plate behind the wheel boss that the legs will sit on just a thought
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Yes they can work , if low light wont charge as much most output relies on light input so often in dull there is less than the battery needs to charge , im no expert on these , charging on car is fine providing you dont have a radio memory clock or tracker sucking small voltages best these are 'off' for solar power
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Sit comfy , leave nut on a few threads, and a serious pull and waggle side toside up and down they generally pop off if you can get someone to strike the nut while you get a hernia can help
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As colin says is a drain hole for a failed seal it should be at the lowest downward point, but if coolant is escaping the pump gland seals have failed you can see if its repairable with new shaft and bearings and spindle seals but some are one life and not diy fixable I would just get a new pump , new old stock can be too old, some new pumps are hopeless stick to branded , not sure if firstline still do them canleys are a good bet pete
