Pete Lewis

im sure the pin has a knurled end to grip the hole so it onlt want to go one way,, which ways that going to be Hmmm !!! new pin will show what i mean. can be done in situ if you have a good pin punch and access is straigth on otherwise best whip the hinge off , you can do that with the door closed , dont go mad retightening book gives 16/18 lbs ft max. stick to 12/16 on old cage nuts many have the 'Ive stripped' it Tee shirt. pete

the clutch is all a static design so there is no real or needed adjustment. you can if travel is dpleated alter the groove in the slave to move it fwd. but this shouldnt make any difference as it just repositions the slave piston in its bore. some get improvements doing this. lost travel is often the pedal clevis and pushrod holes are worn , easy to open up and fit a bigger clevis or weld upand re drill. then theres the old nutshell the Tolerance Ring on the throwout lever pivot, renowned for breaking up or dropping out. there must be some small free play on the pushrod with foot off. this allows the master cyl to refill. if there is too much play you can slot the bracket baulkhead holes and move the assy fwd, this closes the play and raises the pedal pad height. add stout washers to the fixing bolts to cover the slot. pete

you can just drift out the pins and refit new ones, if the hinge body has worn this may half improve the slop. new hinges are available around £20 each shop around if the hinge has worn you can drill out and fit oversized pins or even bolts with a shank. but sizing has to be to a good fit or you end up worse than you started take care the tapping plates in the A post and door are very thin , any over tightening and the cage plate will strip this is a triumph weak link design not intended for any ritual doing up or undoing , and its a pig to change . any problems its best to drill out to 8.3mm and tap out to 3/8unf or try 8mm which has a deeper thread hope thats not depressing or confusing just take some strong tea and sum up whats needed before you jump in Ha ! Pete

in line with all the comments its the best thing you can do getting 14.5 volts to the pointed end will revitalise any previous glow worms often running at less than 10volts with the old decay and agism of the system add getting a whiter light and the change becomes most illuminating... Pete

to add dropping in 3rd will probably do the same what you are doing is lessening the synchro load by moving up the ratio's this brings the disc speed closer to whats needed and allows lower ratio engagements, stick to thinking clutch , bleed, slave position, loss of throwout fulcrum pin bushes etc for starters. Pete

kit, yes, contains spherical, a nasty cup washer and some nylon bushes for the remote pivots. any 'baulking' is generally clutch related IE not really clearing, if the disc cant spin up/down quickly the synchro will baulk the change untill the speeds are the same, if it cant do that it will lock you out , ie doing its job. Pete

the seal Rare Bits 4 Classics http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/ well know supplier of original spec components . market does replecate the orininals the singl e flip/lipped seal takes the ballon out of the bubble seals most will purport to being correct, fit Bills lipseal and door shuts will be a nice tolerable clunk not the wham bang slam that many end up with. many of us have been down this learning curve over the years . another good place to have a browse at thousands of original seal extrusions and contours is http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/ Pete

also I believe with changes to calipers and model years the evolved route to the fronts changed Pete

glad youre nearly sorted, if you change the studs make sure if you have domed nuts that the stud length is not going to bottom out before the wheel is secure Pete

I guess any single spindle motor assy will get thro the panels , but need some torque support or it will go round and round instead of wipe wipe Pete

I m convinced addatives are made just to scare the driver into buuying the stuff, it often causes more troubles than it allegedly has any magic cure. save the money buy fuel of the best octane you can get , these were built to run on 100 so any 97 or higher will get close to the factory performance with factory setting. 95 ** was used in motor mowers and side valves when these cars were developed, having driven a non converted 1964 vitees6 pretty hard for 12 year without any valve recession , proves there is sufficient lead memory absorded by the casting to last thousands of miles , ( also the seats we machine cut during its possession) so like it or not, use the money to buy good fuel and use car , for many happy miles . just some thoughts Pete

does it tend to baulk trying for first or give any grating for reverse, as most engaging baulks are clutch related by it not clearing can you select 2nd when engine off but not when idling ?? certainly the remote rod bushes can make things difficult if it wont position the selector in the 'wards ' correctly cheap to try but tunnel off to get access under the remote housing. if you get a kit watch the gear lever cup washers some are so sharp they will cut the new nylon spherical to bits . use the old one. pete

couple of thoughts , check the coil ( ballasted ) has a feed when your ign switch is cranking and when in running positions. as coil has two feeds if balasted make sure you have a 1.5 ohm coil if not ballasted its a 3 ohm coil. check polarity of coil , is dizzy on the correct coil terminal ??? check small braided lead that earthes the dizzy moving plate. check no green stuff in the coil header or cap connectors dont have plugs with an R suffix in the code if you have messed with the fuel lines it most likely there are floating slivers of rubber in the back of the float needle valve and its suply lines do your strombergs have a starting valve with a link pipe or 'thames barrier ' type of choke ???? make sure no gaskets are covering any of the front face ports in the carbs. it pretty unlikley a mech pump will over produe pressure it only relies on the internal diaphragm spring. with an open fuel line at idle it should produce a decent squirt and top up a 1/2 pint jug in 'about' 30 seconds idling. wet plugs , agree with a weak or no spark.

Robin , if i can remember to pack it along with all the stuff we need duxford I will endever to fit it in , and get some batteries , its a small unit but my brain capacity has been duxfuddled this month Pete My 2000 saloon has the low spec cam and Im thinking of fitting one of CW recomended ones when we add the power steering ,over the next few months Pete

you have checked the speedo but you need to also check the calibration of the rev counter. should have 3.55:1 on the dial but accuracy is dependant on its condition, the inards are same as the speedo its subject to many problems with cables , magnets and drive disks. a well set up std GT6 will cruise at 80 quiet happily with a good level of reserve for a blast up to 3 figures if you count the turn of prop , make sure both wheels turn together or you introduce a error the easiest way is put in to gear ,overdrive Off , push car one one accurate turn of the road wheels, ( mark the engine driven fan or crank pulley ,get someone to count the turns of the engine , then use Johns figures to reckon up what you have that way no jacking, lifting, or removing . plugs out may make the push easier. Pete

in the end of the day it matters not a jot , the only important bits are that the rotor points to no1 HT terminal on No1 tdc firing stroke and the firing oder is 153624 anticlockwise from where the No1 is rotor pointing. the other factor is it has to allow the dizzy body to fit and have some adjustment without fouling the vac capsule etc. as you have two skew gears you could reverse the plan and get the dizzy rotor where you want it to be with NO1 on FIRIING TDC ,align the offset dog to suit and drop it in , it will rotate on tooth helix so may take a couple of drops before you are happy. re time the ignition on completion. pETE

if you want to check its domed or not I have an endoscope which we can use down a plug hole to determine the piston type Pete

the main cause for overfilling the chambers is floating debris in the feed lines, especially if its been disturbed, slivers of rubber get cut from the inside of the fuel hose as you insert the bundy tubes these bob back and forth in the feed line, and generally lodge in the back of the float needle body, do you have the latest needles with a viton tip ?? set the floats to the height 3/16" but most are fixed, unless you washer under the valve face. is the engine stable at idle no hard misfire /shaking which can upset the floats ?? make sure the air filters and gaskets are not covering any of the carb. front face ports . when idling take off the fuel hose to the carbs and run fuel in a jar. for a few seconds ..you may see the culprit appear. but have a serious look at the back of the needle body inside the top cover. Pete

you need to check the PCD f the studs holes im sure mg are not same as triumph so the adaptors wont fit, having a few members with adaptors that refuse to unbolt due to worn nuts and hopeless access for any socket means they can seriously impede rear brake drum removal without a fight . all wheels distort, due to cornering loads but if you watched a video of how wheels distort on cornering and compare steel/alloy with a spoked , you wouldnt put them on your wheel barrow. if you want handling dont go there. !!! look nice thats about all you get with spokes Pete

have posted this all over the place but just in case !!!!! our pub meeting has changed from september 22nd to the 29th just for september, the pub has demolished the conservatory for a new bigger unit , and with another club booked the same night (bless em) the bar would be over run. so its moved to the last monday 29th

Ive dumped the 'drives you mad' window 8 I was stuck with and loaded Linux Mint, does just what it says on the tin , it actually works like a PC. many additional equipment need bit of a search to get them to operate but with help from Andy Mac. one of my trusty locals have got just about everything working, so goodby microsoft ..for good. I cant select a page number (yet) from any mouse click but if i select to print and select a page from there, but it loads and will scroll all pages pretty much instantly so maybe your box of buttons is having a bad hair day ...need a pc guru to explain all this stuff. Pete

dont forget club shop sell oil Pete

the actual spec is 0.002" to 0.008" end float at 0.008" you get about 3mm / 1/8" rock at the tyre , it feels a lot. the normal 1 to 2 flats backed off is really fine , there are two pin holes in the stub so smaller adjustments can be devised. always check the felt seal cup is inside the hub and the felt seal runs in the cup and the felt mates on the stub axle face. one thing is certain if you run with no lay you will soon seize the small outer bearing which will then seize to the stub axle all very expensive. you dont need to fill the cavity with grease this traps the heat transfer, just grease the bearing race. the float is need as the varying heat due to braking and others cause a lot of changes in the end float. and the float also contributes to brake pad return clearances Pete

go to chris witor and download the techy on heads it gives all you need about head numbers Heads http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf Cams http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf but the engine number is the definitine on whats inside ME5????? HE need the missing digits Pete