Colin Lindsay

Anyway - the point of the thread originally was the necessity of the barrier between the two bulbs, not the actual bulbs themselves. I just confused the issue by having a LED bulb already in that holder, but won't be using it on the car. It was a sort of a red herring as I wanted to see how the 'straight-ahead' beam pattern of the bulb looked when the glass was fitted.

No problem with them anywhere at all as long as they make the flashers work within the flash rate parameters however it's the headlamps that are the issue; LED headlamps that have been made by adapting original sealed beam, or Halogen lamp units, are illegal. Some owners prefer the warm yellow glow of original bulbs to the bright glare of white LEDs, but I don't think any are actually illegal.

Yes, but at the moment forums are the only such thing for Spitfire and GT6 owners. If someone wants to start one using your excellent example I'd support it fully. The problem is that we are seen as the 'cheap' end of the market and many times I've been made to feel that I should be glad for any parts whatsoever. That's why there are a number of suppliers who I never deal with, and a number - I'll name Robsport and James Paddock as examples - who have gone the extra mile for us and are definitely worth supporting.

Yes, forums like this one. We find defective or unsuitable parts, post them on here, others agree and have the same problem, so we tell the supplier, who tells us: "We sell hundreds of those and this is the first complaint." Sometimes, as in the case of front hub oil seals, the supplier is good enough to withdraw them from sale until better supplies can be found, but mostly the others just continue on.

The green wire to the reversing light branches at the spade connector on the O/D inhibitor switch; one side into the reversing light switch and the other to the O/D inhibitor switch. Both circuits only work when the gearlever is in the correct place to activate the relevant switch so they can't be on at the same time. Once the inhibitor switch is tripped power will get to the manual switch, but no further until it too is switched on, which completes the power to the solenoid; it just leaves the solenoid to earth.

You'll have to make sure that it's very clean and oil-free for the Loctite to seal properly. I had the head off when doing mine but used nothing other than the socket, but if applying sealer I'd do the top from the inside ie with the rocker cover off, as this is probably where most of the oil comes from.

For the J-type, power is taken off the reversing light circuit; think of it as a loop beginning at the switch and ending at the solenoid, with two breaks - the manual switch, and the inhibitor switch. It needs both breaks completed ie gearstick in the correct position for the operating cam to depress the inhibitor switch, and the manual switch closed. That just makes one large loop into which power is fed from the reversing light circuit. I have no relay on mine. If you look at the photo of mine, rewired in non-original light green and red due to prolonged electrical faults late last year, you can see the taped black wire from the reversing circuit coming in from the left. The green wire splits at the switch - centre of photo - which is where power gets in; the other switch terminal, here in red, goes off to the manual switch through that protective plastic sheathing. From there is comes back to the solenoid, and is then earthed. The two green wires to the right are the reversing switch. It's quite a simple circuit.

Iceberg white over blue... rare colour scheme

Guess how I found out?

Come on, Pete - you really have to ask? The answer is: because it's there. It's not the silliest thing I've ever seen on here, and it did pass an hour or two; and, for some reason, no matter if we don't really know what, Lucas decided it had to be there originally.

That works for me too; I think it's about a half inch socket but needs to be flared.

I'm no expert on spraying but if I recall correctly Cellulose was always a more brittle or 'softer' paint; easier to apply to end up with a nicer gloss shine but more easily damaged; and therefore correspondingly easier to overcoat or respray a single panel for a good match. Interesting discussions about the primer; I know some paints I've used require a white / yellow / even black primer to end up at the proper topcoat colour.

Me too, and both times it was a broken rear axle so no amount of spares would have fixed that at the roadside... (other than of course the complete halfshaft assembly for the correct side...)

621773 are correct, the later ones 631773 are slightly longer and require trimming to suit the earlier door locks. The Paddock versions are correct for the GT6 Mk2. That plastic deadlock type is new to me, no idea if they fit or not.

Didn't Reliant Scimitars use the smaller lights as a full beam unit? Wonder how their owners get on these days? They might have an uprated unit, or a good solution... must go check.

I'd just fit a different speedo, probably much cheaper... or cannibalise another one. Herald ones are two a penny online.

So all four studs sheared? Definitely one for the supplier, before someone's wheel falls off when driving.

Yes, you hired the entire box as a precaution; if you needed anything, you used it then paid for the parts you had used when you returned the rest. Sort of a mini-bar type thing. Does that one have the roll-up plastic windscreen?

Over in Southern Ireland they didn't have roundabouts for years, so when they came to one, they just took the closest route. Recently at that same roundabout near Tesco, Banbridge, I met a woman coming round the one way system in the wrong direction; she was going to Macdonalds and just decided it looked like a quicker route. I must admit to doing the same in Rugby when I was staying there prior to Stoneleigh Show; I came to a T-junction, saw a petrol station, and turned right down to it. There was one car way in the distance who flashed his lights, but the cashier looked at me very curiously and asked: did you just drive in from that direction? Ok so the 'One Way' sign was very small, on a wall...

That's why there's a curved concrete kerb; the car steers itself round the corner while you study your Clubcard points...

Our local Tesco has the same idea; there are four lanes all clearly marked and the left-hand lane is divided off by a concrete kerb - it's the only one that turns southbound. All the rest go into the town or north on the dual-carriageway, so anyone in these lanes is turning right only. I've lost count of the number of times I've been following the left lane, to turn left, and met cars cutting across all three lanes from right to left at the last minute. It's not rocket science; each lane says on it in large letters where you're going...

I had one of those continental kits, one of the first items I ever bought off eBay. After a while, when I realised that to use any of it would spoil it, it was one of the first things I sold, too.

Is it just me that can'r see the pics? nothing but a small blue ? in the middle. You can buy Lucas 700 headlamps that have been converted to halogen, so you retain the original domed period glass but get better lighting: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-7-INCH-CLASSIC-CAR-SEALED-BEAM-HEADLAMP-HEADLIGHT-HALOGEN-H4-CONVERSION/133477888223?hash=item1f13e6f0df:g:WBgAAOSwY8JfIRFr

I've thought about it or more likely worried about it, especially since I don't actually have a hot air gun but do have a large blowtorch. The stink of petrol in the garage is grim, even after the windows and doors were opened for half an hour. I've unplugged anything electrical to avoid sparks but am going out again, now you've made me worry again, to fumigate it some more. If you turn the TV off and open a window, you may just hear the boom.

Some people cover 20 miles a year, some 20,000, some 200,000. That means that for some the same tyre might last ten years and for others, one, so for some drivers a five year old tyre may never see six years... I suppose by the time the tyre is actually made, stored, shipped and then ends up in the tyre depot it can be easily over a year old.