Colin Lindsay

Very true. A cheap hood will always look cheap, and some of the vinyl ones I remember from Spitfires I had lasted about two years before they split.

Aha! That clears it up! All I saw was the MK1 bit... no glasses on this morning. As you say, yes no problem in fit.

I used hard yellow bushes on my GT6 - they used to be sold / made by a guy called Kevin trading as something like KRGClassiccars and I've no idea if he still makes the or not; but they were great and I bought two spares ets for my Heralds. Rear radius arms are red Polybush, diff is blue, but the front suspension bushes are quite hard and are excellent. No problems, no hard handling or road noise, but none of the vagueness from old worn rubber bushes. Given that the steering rack mounts are alloy and vibration will come up the steering column anyway. Shock absorbers are just the standard rubber that comes with Spax or Gaz.

As long as there are no differences ie hood sticks on early models and frame on later which may affect either the fitting or the useage... I think early cars may have used sticks / rods but don't know how this affects the way the hood fits or is put up / down. The hood itself may be a one-size-fits-all these days so no problems, but it's best to check.

I once set mine to Newtons instead of foot/lbs.... or the other way round... whichever it is that breaks things off before it gets to what looks like the recommended setting.

That £63 is for a pair (from the same supplier who sold me cr*p TR7 bearings that I had to bin). Lots of pairs of lamps for around £49 elsewhere, though. One other is selling a pair for £65, but he's also selling a tractor plant ignition switch, so for £6.79 you can start the assembly line all by yourself...

If they were that easy to get out, that's not bad at all. THIS one had to be drilled for a metal bridge then chiselled out without causing damage to the caliper, and was certainly scrap afterwards!

Have you adjusted the shoes at the lower adjuster? It can make quite a bit of difference, I found that out on the GT6 when I rebuilt the rear axles and forgot to adjust one side.

I used it as an eBay name - TrumiphHerlad - as many people never even notice the misspelling... Apologies to Dean for drifting the thread but I think he's sorted the problem anyway....

Petrol certainly works, but as a first step try a cheap car polish - Tesco's is £2 per bottle - and I've found that plenty on a cloth removes a lot of stuff from my cars before repolishing with a better brand. This will remove the easier deposits so you'll have less struggle with the heavier stuff, if they haven't already been softened or thinned out too.

Your thread title reminds me of one of my cars, which was advertised as a Trumiph Herlad....

I just hired a new Triumph for £35 a day from Sixt! Even Smugger of Scarva.

I don't see any point in buying a ticket, I never win anyway.

Jacks are only for limited use ie changing a tyre at the roadside, NOT for home mechanics. That's what axle stands are for. I'd trust a jack for the designed purpose, and little else. We had a farmer 'pancaked' by a full slurry tanker / trailer when he tried to prop it up on a lane to change a flat wheel, and it rolled clean over him. Not a pleasant sight. His jack was not designed to take the weight of a full trailer, but would have been adequate for an empty one.

An original manual has just come up for sale on Gumtree in Northern Ireland, don't know if he'd post or not but it might be worth a query. https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/triumph-herald-vitesse-workshop-manual/1339114503

It appears to be growing a carrot...

"There is some corner of a Foreign setsquare that is forever Stanley....."

My GT6 inner glass strip was originally one long piece, but a PO cut the fur off the lower six inches so that the strip continued on with no seal, sort of a cosmetic look only. This is what sowed the seeds of doubt with me, that the seals are sold full length today, and there's nothing in the early parts manuals about a small chrome strip for the remainder across the quarterlight - in the diagram, they're shown as fitting only the space between the B post and the front glass runner, with nothing continuing on at all. Yet this leaves an unsightly gap across the top of the door. It then made me wonder: was it something that was added later, or maybe just to higher-spec models? A quick check of on-line manuals shows nothing on 948 or 1200 models, yet on the 13/60 and Vitesse we have this small piece, part number 613343, 29 on the lower and later diagram, labelled as a "finisher" for 13/60 and Vitesse and of course NLA. So: some cars have them, and others don't, and maybe should, or shouldn't! (Note: there are actually two part 29s in the lower 1360 diagram, but it's the small strip by the quarterlight)

Those are like new. That is superb. I have four Herald wheels to take to the sandblaster later in the week, I'll be painting them myself and I hope they turn out even half as well as those.

That's a great improvement already. Keep up the good work!

You're talking about the outer and inner door glass seals? Outer one goes full width of the door, it can be a squeeze around the quarterlight frame but will fit eventually. Inner one... must dash out to the garage to check... hang on..... Back again: I have three spare doors out there and on all of them the inner strip stops at the quarterlight, then continues on as a metal strip only - no rubber - across the quarterlight. This was also the case in my 948 coupe as I remember one of the metal strips fell off and I had no idea where it came from... but I suspect that, as with the outer, they're both meant to run full length and these have been fitted incorrectly by a PO; it may take a little bit of trimming at the quarterlight to allow for the glass channel, and you may need to loosen the quarterlight bolts slightly to give some movement, but I suspect that inner and outer seals run from front to back, unbroken and are supplied full length of the door. As always, open to correction...

Standing in Comrade Corbyn's private elevator, a gift from Chairman Mao....

This is an NOS spring from a few years back, and the leaves were held together with a metal strip in the same place. I can see how they would use an upside-down bracket for the same purpose. The question is: should the extra bracket be removed prior to fitting or use?

I wrap mine* in plumbers grease impregnated tape, secured with tie-wraps. Not in between the leaves, as Pete says those parts are dry, but if wrapped around the outside of the assembled spring it stops dirt getting in between the leaves and keeps rust at bay much longer than just exposed metal. * my rear leaf spring. The nut / bolt head of the locating peg fits into the hole in the plate, so the nut itself is on the top, and then the tube can be centralised in the gap above, and the top cover compressed down until the bolt holes line up - see lower photo.

I had to rack my brains for that one.