Colin Lindsay
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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay
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Hi Kelvin! Photos please, no matter what state they're in.
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I doubt very much if it's a fake. Even if it is, you've lost 99p. Have you checked the poster's eBay history? He's bought a lot of classic stuff in the past year. In any case, he has now ended the listing himself. Pity, someone would have had a real bargain. -
Remember to shim both brackets on whichever side you're adjusting. Factory camber setting is +3.25 degrees, for all other Herald or all Vitesse models it's +3.5. (+5 on the rear) If your tyre wear is as bad as this one in the photo, it needs sorted. This was caused by slighty too much negative camber....
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-herald-Body-Shell/233239130347?hash=item364e22b0eb:g:AnIAAOSwo2Bc6wm3 This one is listed as a Herald bodyshell, but it's actually a late Spitfire - bodytub, bonnet bootlid roof and doors, all currently for 99p in Bishopstoke, Hants. It looks amazingly solid and at least some of the parts have to be of use to someone here; I know some members have been looking for these bits in the recent past and I doubt if you'll get any cheaper. No connection to me whatsoever! Note that this is not one of those scam listings ie "Triumph Herald spark Plug £100... phone me for other parts" sort of thing; the auction appears to be for all the body parts in one go. No bids yet, auction ending on Sunday 2nd at 11pm.
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Have some great NOS Delco pumps with incorrect arms from eBay, I'll do the same when I need to use one on a Triumph. Do you suck the inlet and blow the outlet, or is it the other way round?
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The rear top overrider holes are quite large, with a rubber grommet, whilst the side ones are only the thickness of the bolt. I take it from your post that you don't have holes drilled through the lower wings yet? The top mounting (overrider) uses a captive nut. Put a short bolt into this and screw it in until the head is behind the metal edges of the overrider (don't damage the chrome by using an over-long bolt, forcing it right through and making a dimple!) Stick masking tape to the rear panel and the side wing to cover a good-sized area where the bolts will pass through. There's a metal bracket that attaches to two bolts under the boot floor on each side - fit yours if removed. Attach the bumper and overrider to this before tightening the bolt at the bottom of the overrider to keep both bumper and overrider in a reasonably secure position, as close to your desired end position as you can get them, then tighten the lower bolt fully to keep them in the preferred position. Using only one bolt means you can pivot both around to get them vertical and horizontal, and you can align the overrider against the exposed panel seam on either outer side. This gives you a good starting point and leaves both hands free once you have tightened the lower bolt fully. Now, if you gradually unwind the top bolt that you screwed in earlier it will extend until the bolt head touches the bodywork of your new panel. Mark this spot as it's where you'll need to drill. For the side wings, once you're happy that the bumper is level to the car, mark where the slot of the side bumper lies, along the top and bottom of the bracket as it touches the masking tape. Then you'll know to drill in halfway between. I use a rectangle of old inner tube between bumper and bodywork as a gasket. I have this job to do on two new rear panels of my GT6, but as yet another bodyworker has let me down as a no-show, I don't yet have the rear of the car stripped down to measure the holes, but that's as good away of determining where to drill without actual measurements.
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Sounds like my morning ablutions...
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...but pretty much see-through before you start?
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+1 to that (pump valves). My GT6 is still off-road and only starts up to move out of the garage, when I need the space, and then back in, and it starts first time every time without excessive cranking. I rebuilt my pump, a glass-topped Delco, with a complete kit including valves, seals and filters and it's always got fuel in it. I think I fitted one of those as it reminds me of the petrol pumps I saw as a child, with the clear glass bit on the side so that you could see the fuel pumping. Some of them used to have a little spinner inside and it was fascinating.
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Lol! I too thought that originally, but the OP's first post asks about doors too, third line down.
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Do you use underfelt? I did in the GT6, which had heavy black carpets, but also in the Herald Estate where the carpets are of a much thinner material. I find it bulks the carpet out and gives it more of a luxury feel - and might even help it last longer - whilst it provides better sound-deadening too. The downside is that if you also try to use overmats on the driver's side it makes pedal action slightly more awkward.
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I bought one of the later long Spitfire leads that forks, so you can link the engine, bodywork and battery earth terminal all together. Seems to have worked well over the years. Re doors: from the Service Training Notes it says:
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There's no 'f' in dizzy... AHA we've found the problem!
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That diff is cool, sort of the Elvis of the diff world. I wouldn't fit that to a car, I'd keep it in a glass case and just drool over it.
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Oops! I hope that'd still useable, or at least, repairable. Some of those other threads look to be in need of a re-tap. When I swapped my GT6 fixed-spring for a swing spring, two of the six holes became redundant but as you say, they're a straight-through drilling into the insides of the diff. To stop anything falling into the diff as the car drove - dirt, water or other nasties - I plugged the holes with the plastic ends from biro pens; you know the small plastic plugs in the tube on the other end from the writing point? A good match for the stud drilling with a flared end to stop them falling any further and even if they ever do, they're light plastic so won't damage any of the teeth.
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Did it shut okay, or does the spring plate require adjustment? Asking which oil is best is like asking which flavour of soup is best. It all originally depends on taste, but once you start getting into vegetarian / vegan / gluten-free / recyclable packaging etc you'll wish you had never started.
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No. You don't need one; remove the spring and refit it the way it should be, and see how that affects the ride height. If, however, you want one, make sure you're aware of how it affects the ride, as once you start to remove exhausts etc on bumpy roads you might reconsider, especially if this means extra expense of uprated shocks etc.
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Yep, ordinary stonechip is just the same as ordinary primer. uPol seems to be a different kettle of fish.
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It certainly happened in the 60s and 70s, but these days the engines don't sludge up to the same degree. I agree with you re regular oil changes - once a year at least, no matter what miles you're doing.
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uPol themselves say it can be used to replicate the appearance of original stonechip coatings, so I assume this means unpainted especially as they say it's available in black, grey and white. The page I read said that if you want it to 'radiate new' - and I take this to mean having a shiny finish - then you must apply a particular coating, but it doesn't say anywhere I could find that it must be coated in every case.
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Nice work!! Just to be nosey - as I've the same job still to do - how did you torque up the diff pinion nut? Any tips?
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I'll bet it's nowhere nearly as bad as my 1200, which when purchased had underseal right up both sides of the engine, all suspension components, and even the steering rack and bonnet springs. I'm STILL trying to chip it off odd parts for the restoration.
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I think - hard to tell - that your plate that SHOULD be on top of the bottom leaf is actually under it, hence the gap. On the left pic you have posted, you can see where the bottom leaf should be in that slot on top of the diff, and in the right pic you can see where the plate has bent down into the empty space. This is why you have a gap at the bottom of the box; it's meant to be 1/4 inch or so higher. Have a look at this pic and compare. In fact, I'll post two...
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1980 TR7 DHC rolling restoration - bye bye!
Colin Lindsay replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
I've actually realised that instead of buying this to restore... I should have been working on my Heralds... but then, as they all usually are, it was never meant to be a restoration, just a steering rack gaiter replacement then an MOT. -
GT6 diff/gearbox oil specs and recommended brand(s)
Colin Lindsay replied to richhl's topic in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Wouldn't it soak through the envelope? Oh Lord, please don't let them start on beer the same way they do with coffee. Baristas, cofficionados, they're all spotty teenagers with two hours training in how to fill a cup. I'll not offend the real ale enthusiasts other than to say: it's not to my taste. Yet. Currently: Mythos has my vote, with Hophouse13 and Mourne Mist a close second.
