Colin Lindsay
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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay
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Another in agreement! Good / rebuilt original seats are great.
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Sadly these days, it's a requirement for shows. AS Badwolf says, I usually don't lock my Triumph, EXCEPT at shows these days, in order to keep badly behaved children out. It's amazing how at nearly every show nowadays you can get two or three of them running wild who try the handles, bend the mirrors and try to break things off, just in passing with no thought whatsoever. Leave a window open and they'll try to climb in; leave a convertible uncovered and they'll climb over the doors to get into the seats, and the aim seems to be to try to break the steering wheel off or try every switch, stalk or knob in as fast a time as possible. Then they lose interest and run to the next one. The parents are usually pushing a pram quite a distance away and tell you to get lost if you mention it.
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Hello from Paula and her Vitesse
Colin Lindsay replied to Paula's topic in I thought I'd introduce myself
It was my first dentist that starred in that film. She WAS German, too. I don't remember if it was the truth or the tooth she was trying to get out of me but by the end I'd have told her anything. -
Put them as far UP as they will go, they act as a fly deflector.
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Same here, Tescos 20/50 Oil is good for that.
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I did once trade in a Mini that had the driver's door held closed by rope tied to the opposite door.... Agnew Autoexchange in Ladas Drive Belfast gave me £600 for it as full deposit on a Rover. I climbed out, retied the door through the open window, and went indoors to hand over the keys. I drove off in my Rover very quickly indeed... leaving behind a full Paddy Hopkirk petrol can in the Mini boot that was probably worth more than the Mini.
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At least you know who it is, I see a grey haired old man that I don't recognise at all! Where did that young guy go that used to be there?
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You're right! It was the MK1 with two filters and the Mk2 with the black-painted airbox. Well, it was a long time ago
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Stove black is a good heat-resistant paint, I used to use a slightly more expensive version of it called PJ1 Fastblack which is used on motorcycle manifolds and exhausts. I still remember the lovely smell of it....
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Take a bow, young man - that is stunning! (One small point tho - that fuel line looks very close to the water-pump pulley - it may be just camera angle and I'm sure you've secured it properly, but just want to check?)
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Probably Zeibart or other underbody rust-proofer, it will peel off or come off with judicious use of petrol or the like. Tar-based so very messy. Pick as much off as you can then either petrol soak the rest off or sandblast (if the cover is off the car?) For repainting I find a good primer is the key, then you can pretty much use any kind of top coat (I think mine was VinylKote Gloss Black).
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If you still had the steering wheel, you didn't do it right.
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They do. Anything paraffin-based (or today's equivalent!) designed to break down oil quickly will eat tarmac. Washing up liquid or washing powder works, as does cat litter on wet oil patches. Drop it on oily patches, grind or work it in, leave for a while, and brush up. I'm amazed at how much it holds but then when I look at our largest cat... I shouldn't be.
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480lb Springs + Potholes = Stressed Driver!
Colin Lindsay replied to rlubikey's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
I love the Attiki Odos in Greece, 1.8bn worth of motorways that I use to get to the Peloponnese from Athens. "Cutting edge" roads with very little traffic and an absolute joy to drive on, so my money was well spent. -
Use the car with a simile...
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You're not a Committee, are you?
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Mk2 had the very nifty black pancake filters, no box. However: Fitting a box may help, if you can find one with the correct spacing for the carbs, or else make one.
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That is sad, when you think of how much we love our cars and the work that goes into them, to see one like this. You feel that they all should be saved. I daren't walk past a Cat Sanctuary these days either....
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(I think) £15 off eBay, maybe even only £5... it was quite a few years ago now... padded leather with red stitching and stealth black paint. 13" semi-dished. The rim is so well padded you don't feel the road noise at all.
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With regards to Heralds, there are only four hoses - rad top, rad bottom, heater in, heater out. Early cars had a take-off from the top of the head - yours doesn't hence 13/60. (I was typing this whilst non-member as already posting!) Two hoses go to the heater valve; one in and one out - one from the long pipe that runs from the water pump right back under the manifold, and the other from the upper pipe that goes through the manifold. All the others are add-ons from later models that are probably causing the trouble; Heralds didn't use restrictors. You might want to try the simpler setup and see if it improves? (Manifold pipe to heater valve; long under-pipe to heater out.)
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480lb Springs + Potholes = Stressed Driver!
Colin Lindsay replied to rlubikey's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
The old joke is that we used to drive on the left of the road, now we drive on what's left of the road.... However: my road has recently been resurfaced for five miles from one village to another; the usual tarmac / asphalt then tons of stones on top which passing cars are meant to compact down before the rest is swept away. Would have been a lovely job when finished however white-Subaru-man decided last Sunday to head out and perform a few doughnuts, which in the hot weather has resulted in large circular gouges and dips sunk into the surface which are already a nightmare to drive over in a modern, let alone a Triumph... you can bet they won't be back to repair them for another few years. -
Is that the Triumphtune one? Slightly different, but still collectable. You'll always find at least one Tuning house for any marque; Minis have Downton and MG have Moss and early parts or automobilia are always sought after. Some owners go the whole hog with the tuning accessories and end up with a genuine period souped-up engine, others (mentioning no names ?) just fit the rocker cover and pretend...
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Mine dripped hot engine oil on the MOT Inspector's bald head... but he still passed it anyway...
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For leg clearance, if you're vertically advantaged like I am, then semi-dished is a help. Mine is a 13" semi-dished and gives about an inch more clearance above the thighs. I had a 14" flat (in fact I once had a 15" flat off an old Opel!) and couldn't even get into the car.
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Gav - let us know how you get on, and good luck! It sounds good in theory, particularly the wood blocks, but I'm still having a few thoughts about the process and to be honest my first would be to remove the entire rear spring, no matter the additional bother. I'm trying to get my head around the idea that the spring is attached to the top of the diff, and the rear hub assemblies etc hang off either end. If you take the spring off the diff it's trying to compress upwards, hence the wood blocks - but what happens to the outer assemblies, given that the weight is all being taken by the rear shocks, and they're no longer secure by being bolted to the diff flanges? As Pete says, it's now a hanging spring, but what is it hanging from? If it can't push up, it will push down.... and you may have as much bother getting the assemblies to line up again in their new positions. Just be very careful and look after your fingers.
