Colin Lindsay

Obviously not a GT6 kit then, probably supplied for cars with more room over the engine. I used one of the adjustable brackets and it allows for more choice of belt.

You're not a mind reader by any chance? I've just finished an article on Triumph Herald jewellery for The Courier, probably the January or February edition - just in time for Valentine's Day... I couldn't find any in silver, however I did find one in gold....

Floors and sills readily available and there's no shortage of experts ready to put them all together, although in this case they're not coming forward. The local scrappy may be the best bet.

I've tried to find silicone petrol but to no avail.... My GT6 was dripping petrol onto the manifold last week which gave me a few heartstopping moments, but thankfully no fire. Overheating electrical cables would be my first worry, followed by sticking brakes that glow alarmingly red when sufficiently hot...

Does it look like coffee? This SU was full of the stuff, but yet cleaned up very well and was fit to be reused. It doesn't look like rust, but that's probably what it is.

Beware the foam circle types, they're only plastic drainpipe packing rings and as such are not suitable for the task. They may insulate for a time but the ones I've seen - and bought - are not waterproof.

Ok - went to the garage last night, in the freezing cold (old bones feel it more!) and cleaned the solenoid connections; I also noticed the Cd player sitting out of the housing as though straining against something. I removed it and disconnected the plugs and on restarting all the electrics worked perfectly, so it's either the solenoid or the Cd player has dislodged something when slid back into the housing. I'll have to check the routing of the cables behind it. I don't think it's anything more serious than that. I'd still like a new / better condition / modern fuse box though.

Aha - just checked and it's nowhere nearly as bad as I imagined; I remembered the Herald and the problem of sliding the rubber grommet right the way along the loom; the GT6 is nowhere near as bad. I checked the fuses - none blown - and changed them around just in case it was moisture or corrosion from the long layup - the interior light came on when the battery was reconnected, but went out as soon as I operated the main light switch. Back to the drawing board... but I too suspect the solenoid. Incidentally replacement fuse boxes are amazingly expensive, for all they really are....

Even if this turns out not to be the culprit I've often thought of replacing it with a more modern version, or even just a good original one. The problem with THAT is that I can't work out how to get it slid along the wiring loom to where it should be without having to remove a huge number of components or connections first.

Went out to the GT6 and replaced the fuel pipes last weekend, got into the car and... no interior light, no CD/radio, no lights or instrument illumination. If I toggle the light switch the interior roof light flashes momentarily each time. I have good power to ignition and oil pressure lights and on turning the key the car starts, and then all the lights come on including main lights, interior roof light and CD player. Stop the engine and all go out again. Before I start tearing things apart, does this seem like an obvious symptom to anyone? The battery is fully charged and the contacts clean, and everything works as it should with the engine running.

I'm seriously debating asking Santa for a pair... they're an excellent item that I'll feature in a coming Courier to drum up business for this worthy venture. He's also on Facebook with some good photos: https://www.facebook.com/triumphvaluations/?ref=bookmarks In fact I just did. Ordered two. The quoted price is each, and appears to have dropped to £135 from £150.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-herald-1200-headlight-bezels-Remade-/191736317786?hash=item2ca460075a:g:l34AAOSwwbdWQ1Xb Apparently remade from rechromed brass, so no more pits in the mazak.... but may be very heavy? Anyone tried these yet? Looks like a nice Christmas present for somebody....

This one was on a Spitfire 1500 that I was servicing; I charged it, replaced it on the car, and as I attached the power leads there was a massive bang and it blew up... the cover actually flew right over the roof of my house. A combination of a hot, sunny and windless day, a buildup of gas, and a spark.

You shouldn't have to.... my centre section just unscrews and hangs down on the cables (bad practice I know) and then refits with the same four screws; no bracketry required.

Currently £60 new on eBay - including carriage - BUT the seller claims you require an adaptor to get the inner set of bearings off the rear axle which is another £48....

Never knew that.

Sounds normal enough, as long as it's not leaking water it will soldier on. Bear in mind modern pumps wear out very quickly and more than a few need replaced quite often, almost like a service item to be replaced every two years or so.

If that's my post you're referring to, I don't at any point say it's a problem. I just don't jack my car under the diff in case the curved diff casing allows the jack to slip off. It's a personal choice, not an instruction.

I use the main chassis rail at the point where the side outriggers join front or rear; a good strong flat piece of inch-thick wood on top of the trolley jack spreads the load. I don't jack or support the car on the diff.

Some would argue that it depends on the securing clamps and nuts - if the nuts go to the rear it causes less corrosion as they're more sheltered from road dirt etc. After forty-odd years it hardly matters. I recently bound the GT6 spring in Denso plumbers grease-impregnated tape, wrapped well round and secured with stainless ties; this apparently also strengthens the spring. I keep it well lubricated with liberal coverings of Waxoyl. You can get leather gaiters which go on over the top of everything and used to be supplied on sports cars, to keep grease in and dirt out, but they're expensive whereas the tape is much cheaper and can be quite smart, as shown on this non-Triumph spring getting the same treatment.

I bought one of those, seemed quite good spec, but never fitted it as yet as the Herald's still off the road....

Love those. So easy to work on and replace valves etc, plus you can see the fuel as it goes through thereby ruling out non-starting caused by a lack of it... if you use Redex it also shows as a light red colour and can be easier to gauge the flow.

That is definitely a thing of beauty. I always wish I had been a woodworker of some description - many of my musical instruments are as nice to look at as to play - but I just don't have the time space or brain power to take up another hobby at this stage... so I can admire things like this knowing the skill and perfection that goes into them.

It happens to us all, Andrew - I bought a lovely little aftermarket dashboard-mounted temperature gauge that fits into the hole of the ashtray on the dash top and replaces it with something slightly more useful.... except the Herald 1200 doesn't have one on top of the dash, only the front... later cars do but they have the temperature gauge already.... D'OH!

As John says count the splines then get a suitable clutch plate; my own GT6 has the 18/50 box and J-type overdrive and uses the Dolomite clutch plate. It’s all a straightforward fit.