hugh

After running for a while dizzy will be close to block temp 80-90c too hot to handle and will melt some types of rubber gloves, get hold of an infrared temp gun (non contact type) bet its about block temp if so don't worry, have seen 15 or so cam/bearing failures all with the direct in block type cam and they can generate 150c or so on the block in the cam bearing area due to bearing friction, just check with the temp gun for a few days bet its OK, more revs needed?

Once had a spitfire fail because the tester thought the original spec seat mounting bolts were too small and not safe , wanted m10's with large washers under the floor, so much hassle to appeal took it elsewhere and guess what, no problem at all, there are some real twat mot testers around, if you find one just go somewhere else

My lad may have a couple of rear shafts with uprights and mgf disc conversion

The std items are perfectly adequate with OE quality parts, problem is rubbish parts from places unknown , never has problem with o/e stuff even with a 220bhp turbo engine on a tr7 5 speed box on std drive shafts, age is also a factor as most are now the best part of 50 years old, when the turbo engine went in the spit we managed to find a pair of new triumph shafts, guess very difficult now

Broken spring 104445 on 3rd 4th syncro assembly, had these break in the past causes no syncro, only got to get one of the three to break to cause it

Other reason for this is a blocked gearbox breather, causing the box to pressurise (slightly) when hot this then pushes oil up the speedo cable (pipe)

If the valves are stuck open you will probably have rust in the bores, head off inspection is needed before turning over, sorry for bad news

Uprated are usually around the 200lb mark, the the high lift cam with the springs may have become coil bound on the springs, was it checked?, should have been about 25 thou between the coils on the springs, any less and with the bonce in the valve train it become solid at higher rpm , strangely it tends to destroy cam bearings rather than lobes

Just for interest sake 80 miles will probably be about 3 hours running, assuming average engine rpm of 2500 that = 450000 rpm, cam devide engine rotation by 2 = 225000 rpm its very possible if cam bearing faces in the block were rough, that every thing will be destroyed in that time , even at 600 rpm that's 10 crank rotations a second, 5 for the cam !!

Have to agree with john most of your oil pressure has gone out the knackered cam journals , the block will be oval and cannot be line bored seen this loads of times, on both 4&6 cyl engines its also very easy to miss on a home rebuild, I've done it myself, a lumpy can with strong valve springs only makes it worse, strongly suspect the block is only fit for the recycle bin, been warning people about cams running directly in the block for years, and as they are getting older the problem is getting worse, beware

Biggest problem is stroke closely followed by heavy 3 bearing crankshaft that whips, and in the case of the 1500 cam that runs directly in the block, seen this destroy more blocks than anything else particularly with lumpy cams Seen properly built 1500 engines tuned that have been wrecked in less than 10000 miles

The clearances in the older engines are much greater than modern ones if you do this you could well end up with a greatly increased oil consumption, like a couple of people I know, I'd stay away

Doesn't quite fit requires a little bit of lateral thinking, but can be made to fit and work, done it several times

Don't forget the wiring is for a 22A dynamo not a 45A alternator the wiring must be upgraded, on safety grounds

They will work loose and knock inside the tube, got the blue peter badge for this one although on a tr7 send them back

But i have one of the cheapest postcodes in the country, but I suppose it is for 3 cars,

Have a multi vehicle policy with PJ which has a 1972 panelcraft 4 door range rover (unique), a rover 45tdi and an mg zs180, (no triumph at the moment), costs me £625 a year you are all getting away cheap

Spent may days playing with tyre pressures on our turbo spitfire (220bhp) with 195/50/15 tyres and alloy wheels eventually settled on 24 in the front and 28 in the rears as the best for even wear and grip, as said treat the recommended pressures as a starting point, but people are right about modern tyres needing a little more pressure

17 acr alternators are not expensive, when they start causing trouble either get a new or exchange unit with a warranty, been there many times fixing alternators, not worth the hassle as most come back and bite a few months later and you have wasted your money on the bits you have bought

Wobble in the shaft is the most obvious and free play in the advance mechanism

By the way nodiz will do 4,6,8 cyl engines, with a single coil or coil packs , mapping through the Bluetooth interface is easy

There's always the 123 distributor replacement, especially if your distributor is about knackered (most are)

Used nodiz with very good results, in fact dumped the manky jolt for it which caused nothing but grief, also the ford edis is now getting expensive and not easy to get genuine, and the pattern ones are crap

We have two cars with rear discs, one is mgf callipers with mgf discs this worked well with homemade brackets and shortened mgf cables, it did however need a bias valve on the rear to rebalance the system as it has hispec 4pot ultralites on the front with Capri 2.8 discs and lotus Elise 1144 pads . The second has the same front brakes but Willwood 4 pot hand brake type callipers on the back with willwood cables again shortened to fit and again on mgf discs, again a bias valve is essential to rebalance the breaking. Both have a 2.5-1 servo, advantage of the wilwoods is they will fit 13" wheels but are considerably more money to buy, wheel size is not an issue as both run 15" mgf wheels on freelander studs, basically you payes your money and its your choice

Have a look at rally design they do a retrofit kit that will probably fit without to much hassle