Anglefire

Pete, The first post does show the rear with a set of twin wheel barrow exhausts on - so probably full sports? Mine now has the same and its ok - though not been for a very long run in it yet - Sunday will be the longest it will have had (Assuming its not peeing it down when we leave!)

I like Buzzweld paints- they are basically Corroless pains (Spelling!) - they do what I said before - they have different types for different applications and stuff to spray into cavities. But there is also POR15 which is another type of paint doing a similar function. Many are either 2pack or two different types of paint - and under coat and top coat.

Because any crack in that paint will allow a little bit of air/moisture in and allows the reaction to start - the best way is to paint with a substance that converts the remaining rust into an inert compound and then continue to work once its dried - and be flexible. And have another coat of perhaps something else to make really sure!

You know, I'd not noticed that - I had to check to see if my iPhone is the same - and it is! Thats a bit of a pain Mark

Ah, that will be for your motorsporting requirements - I seem to remember when I did 12 cars and a few other events that dual springs were required - though when I did some RTV's in my LR Discovery 3 I was exempted from that being as it was fly by wire (Does have 2 pots from memory though!)

Hi Rob I see no reason for surname - mine isn't hard to work out if I put pictures on, but that only because my domain name is my surname!

There are various wiring diagrams - the one in the Haynes manual is not bad, but is black and white. Just search the internet and you get loads - such as : Why do you want hazard lights anyway? A warning triangle is probably more use and doesn't go flat.

Yes I can see the pictures now - looks a nice motor! Engine bay has a few extra wires - there is a second, old, battery earth wire cable tied to the new one- should be removed really. Its doing no harm as such, but isn't required. I see you also have an oil pressure gauge. I've changed computers! Try this link Its the thing just behind the coil in your first picture.

Can’t see the pictures Frank. Oh and welcome. Petrol smell - mine does a little - can be from the fuel tank vent in the back or from the carbs overflow in the front. There is only a single skin bulkhead and is full of holes one way or another. But shouldn’t be strong. The heater is controlled by a valve in the line in the engine bay - they often seize. https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-500469-hoses-pipes-and-demister-nozzles part number 724021 hazards I’m surprised you don’t have a switch. Adding is possible if you can follow the Wiring diagrams and do the mods.

I did put a socket on it and it felt tight - didn't want to go mad! The engine was "rebuilt" before I had it - and he seems to have done the cleaning side quite well, just not some of the bits that cost money.

Oil filter should have a relief valve in it too - mind you that will only work if the pressure is inside the filter presumably. If you suspect the PRV just drop it out - something like a 13/16" spanner - then pull the valve out and spring - should slide out nice and easy. Spring should compress between the fingers a little bit. (Like it will move in a tad, but nothing more.)

I guess they bolt to the bodywork? In which case they will be assuming the bolts will provide the return path to the eleccy. But post a picture of the said item

I have a very small water leak on the side of the block - the drain/cleaning hole just above where the exhaust goes under the gearbox - only leaks for about a minute as it warms up and presumably again when it cools down. I've put some bars leak in the system which will hopefully sort it out.

Well, I've sorted this out today - just bought some fine mesh and placed a layer over the top of the column and a couple of pieces in the "W" at the bottom - just enough to take out the slack and to stop it from rotating, but still allow it to function correctly. Not that I plan to test that out!

My neighbour has an MX5 - bought it last year as a bit of a midlife crisis - though is about 75! He loves it. I was thinking unexciting more in relation to performance - it is lacking a lot - but suits the wife! Its probably quicker than my Spitfire in some areas (Except pickup the emissions on the jazz kill it!) But the Spitfire is a hoot to drive! Feels fast at 30.

I had a vectra 2.0 TD company car - dreadful thing. I didn't have AC in mine but one of the salesmen did - drove it a couple of times - you had to turn off the AC before pulling away otherwise it was painful. Also handled like a three legged dog. Was awful.

Mine were a bit away from the valance (Spit 1500) - but mine has fibreglass ones and each side is different - I just packed the gap out. When the bonnet is shut there will be even more stress on the hinges. Shouldn't cause an issue.

Blue stuff looks to me like hylomar sealant- which I didn’t think was required on cylinder heads - but happy to be wrong

Early ones rusted worse than British cars - but they soon learnt and they are very good now. Wife has a Honda Jazz - 8 years old ( not many miles to be fair ) and has had no issues apart from the airbag recall that seems to be affecting millions of cars of all sorts of manufacturers. just not very exciting.

My MOT is due on the 29th May - but when I changed to VHI in april I was asked then if it was substantially modified and I think reading this that I will be automagically MOT exempt and have to declare it next April when the free tax is due.

I was wrong in so far as getting the tax back from the date of exemption - I got my tax back yesterday but only from the end of April in effect. This seems wrong to me - its exempt from Jan 1st (ish) but you can't declare it as such until the April and can't claim it back to the Jan?

I've just found this via a link on Faceache https://www.britishmotorvehicles.com/news/the-new-mot-exemption-explained Does at least make some sense (Agree with it or not) - but in essence if your car (Other rules for HGV etc) is over 40years old after the 20th May this year it will automagically be flagged as MOT exempt. If it is not marked as VHI or declared VHI when it is next taxed, then that flag will be removed. The police will regard every 40YO car as MOT exempt unless flagged as not being so.

I've contacted Mick and he doesn't believe its the correct part - that is for the previous type column (The one with the steering wheel horn push I assume) - and won't fit. He doesn't know how it stops rotating! The only thing i can think of is that it is the two clamps with the pair of slots to hold the crinkle bits to stop the rotation. Might have to fabricate something to fit in the slots to allow the crush tube to crush but not rotate.

Thanks Pete - I've found the 639 part in the PDF parts catalogue I have now - though not sure how you would find it without your knowledge! Interestingly mine (75 on) does say 609639 I've just emailed Mick!

Points gap was what was wrong with mine when it ran crap after its transplant. Other than that I would be guessing as I'm clearly no expert!