Anglefire

Ah ok thanks for that! No clip inside. Bet they are nla too. Dont suppose you know the part number for them?

Following on from this topic but not the same, I have an issue with my column. When I changed my steering wheel, I found a couple of screws wedged in around the top mount by the crinkle bit of the column - around UKC5664. Clearly they shouldn't be there and so I removed them. Now I've been out in the car, I do get some rotation on the outer column - steering is fine in that there is no slop so the bushes etc seem ok. But when the steering column mounted switches rotate a little - its disconcerting! The obvious thing is to replace UKC5664 and UKC5665 - but they are NLA - but they shouldn't be a really tight fit so that the column can collapse in a head on (Not planning on that one!) So the other place I can see to tighten or replace something is the bottom mount and the felt pad (608223) - but is this really going to do anything? Or am I missing something? I really don't want to bodge some screws back in the top mount!

Hi Guppy I did wonder if it was that simple ? and as for being a youngster - I still work a lot in imperial. Well I’m more multi-skilled and use anything that comes to hand ? often at the same time

Daft question -well 2 actually! Does this work on all engines (Ie. Spitfire 1500) and why shorten the drill bit?

In-seize - thats a new one

20psi at idle may not be an issue. What’s the pressure at 2000rpm?

Mine has got some air horns on (Fitted by a previous owner) - first time I tried them I had a heart attack! Look like Halfords specials from the 90's

Ah yes, the Land Rover drivers horn of choice !

Why? Serious question. Is it just they don’t need them because the rpm isn’t high enough or something else. I’m happy to have changed mine, so is largely academic for me.

I fitted a duplex to my 1500 - hadn’t planned to really but decided to in the end as the simplex fitted was well worn and thought it a worth while upgrade. Perhaps overkill but won’t need doing again for a while I hope.

I would t rule out fuel. Hot day sounds like it might be evaporating? Carbs getting hot? though it could also be ignition. Check the points gap?

I assume it’s not an adapter plate ? Or is it to allow space for the butterfly’s?

Just to hopefully put this to bed. After sorting the oil pressure out yesterday and it having a decent run of a few miles I decided to have another look at the carbs as it’s still running 200rpm too high at idle. Stripped them down so I could get the needles out as well as check the jet heights and decided to change the needles for some leaner ones - I have a few choices from Roger and decided to go for the ABT rather than the AAU fitted. I would have gone for the ABG but don’t have any of those unless there are some in the other carbs I have. Never thought of looking till now ? Anyway fitted the needles exactly how Roger described - level with the housing by using a straight edge and turned the jets down by 12 flats - one didn’t look the same as the other ( I’d put the top on before doing the second one) so took it apart again and measured the distance down and both were 0.08” down from flush - so put everything back together. Started her up and immediately it sounded better - just a minor adjustment to balance the carbs. Took her out for a spin and is driving even better than yesterday. Feels nice - sounds lovely on acceleration but goes quiet cruising. Picks up and accelerates strongly. Just need to adjust the handbrake as it’s not holding very well - but that is fine probably just the brakes having bedded in finally.

Have you got a multi-meter? If so measure the resistance across the horn terminals - no idea what it should be - but it should be something I would guess around a few ohms to a couple of KOhms - but definitely not nothing and not >MOhms

James Paddock.

Not paddocks - though I thought it was! I could have sworn it was. But seemingly not now!

I got my head gasket (albeit for a Spitfire) from Paddocks. Payen- came in a complete kit of gaskets as it was nearly as cheap to do so.

As the wife is on the main computer, I was looking at the Haynes manual at the 1500 engine section - and as well as the normal running pressure, it also specifies the oil pressure relief valve pressure - which is 53psi. A figure not mentioned for the smaller capacity engines.

Yes 20/50 - Castrol GTX from memory. I have bought some Millers Oils Classic Pistoneeze 20W-50 in preparation for the next change - though will probably be a little while yet as I need to get some miles on the engine!

Unless I was invited to criticise someone else's car (Or anything else), I wouldn't dream of making comment if i didn't like it. I might say nothing and move on or pick on something that I liked, but nothing else.

Facebook is killing forums - and its fabulous that this one is still active and long may that be the case. Facebook is totally the wrong media for technical discussion and answers - well answers at least - how many times does the same thing come up on facebook because finding a post from an hour ago can be a challenge? The club does have to change - does have to attract the young - but there are lots of things for the young to do and running an old classic car is not the cheapest hobby (and Triumphs have to be one of the cheapest to run around? )

Yeah I know Pete - they are Roger's old carbs needled to suit his car - which is similar to mine in that I have 4-2-1 stainless exhaust, PH1 cam, stub stack and K&N filters. But it won't be the same as Rogers but is close I think. exhaust is a little blacker than I would expect - but then its not sooty - so is close.

Dunno about the number of turns - though I can look as I have both still, though one is in the old engine to fill the hole and not lose anything! As mine is running to "spec" I'm not going to worry TBH Startup pressure - soon dropped back - only took a few minutes. Not worried.

Thanks Pete. Well, that's good cos I've just been out for a spin around the block and is running as nice as it has for a long time (Even SWMBO said that!) and the pressure is just over 50psi - probably 55 from 2k onwards as far as I could tell. Is a bit of a jump when letting it drop back to idle - I guess the relief valve closing. But idles at a steady 25psi. 24.5'C outside at the moment and the engine temperature was constantly smack in the middle of the gauge. I think its running very slightly rich - but can sort that I'm sure - I have a good selection of needles to try, though I will adjust the current set up first.

If I remember correctly, isn't the last three or four numbers the length? so 11.25" compared to 10.88? or is that just my brain having a fun time playing tricks on me?