Mad4classics

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blog Sorry perhaps I used the wrong description? http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/springs.htm Curious about the spring rate suggestions. David

Reading through that blog I notice that the recommendation is 2.5" ID x 9" 300lb rate springs for a MK3 Spitfire.These are available from people like D Faulkner and AVO ; has anybody fitted these? David

Hi, just done this on a Spitfire - NOT GT6 I know. But managed it with seats in and tunnel out. Bit of a problem getting to the demist vent hose clips - clearly been tightened when the dash wasn't in so pointing at an ackward angle. Had to replace the heater matrix because it was leaking so got a replacement from Motorads online. Only got stuck head first in the footwell once; but there was no one about to see my embarrassing predicament! David

+1 They may be a bit more expensive, but they are good. David

Got one of these adaptors fitted; so I use the Mann W713/9 for which I think the main application is listed as Land Rover Defender! David

I've got a pair of these for grommets:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-130mm-SLEEVE-EXPANDER-by-HELLERMAN/302607129388?hash=item4674ca5b2c:g:Fx0AAOSwPzhaR2P1 Remember them being used for the old Hellerman rubber sleeves used with Hellerman oil, before the advent of modern heatshrink tubing. (showing my age here). But they're really useful for grommets. But I agree with Pete, if it's round a harness, you need to be a magician. David

Andrew, Carefully compare the thread on the blanking screw you've taken out with the longest straight grease nipple you've got to make sure they're the same. I don't thing any other shape will fit once a UJ is on car. With care it should go in, then you've then just got to find a gun that fits. David

Andew, You can never have tooo.. many different grease guns David

Hi Peter, Is this scan any help? David Spitfire Mk2 Wiring.pdf

Kevin, Helpfully, the Haynes CD Owners Workshop Manual states that this screw is NOT removable; but it can be done. You'll need to unscrew the top adjuster screw to release the needle - it's best to have the proper top adjusting tool for these carbs. The screw can then be pressed or tapped back up the dash pot bore from the bottom - be careful the sprag washer will score the bore!!! The adjusting screw is available from Burlen as part B20042 and comes with the o ring. The hex head in the screw is often badly deformed after years of twiddling. You may need a new sprag star washer too. BUT... you started this thread because the car wouldn't start. Oil leaking past the seal will be quite slow and although annoying, just requires a more frequent top up - it shouldn't stop it starting. David

Andy, You may already know, but it is possible to get history information held by the DVLA; if you explain your reason for requesting the information - there is a fee for this and it can take some time. The information sometimes goes all the way back to the old style log book assuming it was sent to the DVLA as it should have been in the 1970s when they were called in. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/646235/mis546-giving-people-information-from-our-vehicle-record.pdf David

Hello Gary, I don't know if you've got this, but I've dug out and scanned the relevant section from the Lucas Workshop Manual in the hope that it will provide you with some pointers. There's a lot of technical stuff which you may find interesting, but the section further dismantling and bearing replacement on page 15 is probably useful to you. David - (TSSC Member - just in case Pete or Doug are reading) Lucas Workshop Instructions A5.pdf

Paul, Not sure about the heater blower seal, but don't Rimmer list the inlet/outlet seals and air distribution pipes unless I'm miss-understanding what you're after. Plenty of plusgas on the bolt remains - give them a good shock from side to side with a flat punch to break the rusthold; then leave them to soak as long as you can - then the heat. An easyout somtimes works, but on small bolts can often break and cause worse problems. Worse case is drilling out the remains for a helicoil or other thread repair. Personally it's such a job to remove the box I'd be taking it apart to clean up and refurbish while you've got it out. David

Hi, My MK3 heater doesn't seem to match the picture in the parts manual and the dimensions of the MK1,2,3 matrix I've been quoted is too small. The box still has the little flaps for foot-well warmth, but it's wider and has "protective ears" for the flaps. As you can see from the picture the matrix fits across the baffles tightly - the Mk4 matrix is just too narrow at this point to fit! Has someone at some point fitted the wrong heater matrix or am I going to need to modify my MK3 heater box to fit a MK4 matrix? It will fit I think at a push! Anybody come across a heater like this? David

Sorry Pete, Duplicate post. Must stop using phone to post:- screens too small to read entire text, fingers too big for buttons and constantly fighting spell checker. David

Thanks for that Pete, My advance unit just starts ramping from zero and by 4in Hg is advanced by several degrees. It will hold this position under constant vacuum. The Delco number is stamped on the bottom face of the vacuum unit. Need a mirror to read it. David

The spring hasn't failed, it passes the usual noddy tests; holds position on vacuum - no leak, and returns consistently to the original position, when the vacuum is released. Running shell+ nitro ALL the time. Need to confirm the correct vacuum advance is fitted. Using a vacuum meter and the advance control on the distributor to bring the plate back to the same position, I plotted the the characteristic up to the range limit on the meter (need a better meter). Extrapolating the line it will hit 15@12inHg but it's not 0@5in aand is consistently higher than the book figures I've got until the end point. I'm having difficulty finding any information regarding delco distributors; even though, as I understand it, they were made at a factory in Dunstable.

Suffering from a good deal of pinking with the vacuum advance connected!!! No amount of retarding the ignition cures it, but just disconnecting the vacuum advance and things are fine. I can run at the stock 6degree static setting. Can anyone tell me the Delco number for the MK3 Spitfire Vacuum advance? The number underneath on mine is 7952875. According to Triumph Spitfire & GT6 - A Guide to Originallity; the Vacuum advance should be 0@5inHg and 7.5/15@12 inHg, but with a quick check with a vacuum meter I've already got 6degrees at less than 5inHg. Also from the attached picture you can see that the "nose" is fairly long compared to what I expect. Began to think I was suffering the same problem as Brown&Gammons describe on the MGA:- https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mga-midcat-5-submga4-ignition/vacuum-pipe-assembly-inc-clips-mga-1h919

No it shouldn't do that! The previous suggestions are valid if your car has been changed to have a ballasted coil ignition system; but originally the MK3 used a 12v ignition coil system which gives only a single white wire onto the coil. If you've got a multimeter you might want to check you've got 12v at the ignition coil with the starter switch held in the start position (you'll need an assistant). Failing that a small bulb tester will suffice. Disconnect the white/red wire from the starter solenoid temporarily if you don't want it to turn the engine over while your testing this! BE SAFE!! Over time, wiring appears to be the subject of many modifications; some good some not so. Might be an idea to check the wires are on the correct terminals of the ignition switch?

Thanks Richard. The £45 must be rarity value for NOS.

For the very late GT6 the rear wheel cylinder was GWC1501. I can't find any stock of that part. Instead I'm offered GWC1121 with the caveat "must be fitted as a pair". These are the brakes with the fiendish self adjusting setup! David

Picking up on this point, the late 7/8" bore rear brake cylinder are no longer available. When fitting the 5/8" cylinders, which are generally offered as a replacement; would it be correct to re-route the brake lines so that the servo goes back to operating on all 4 wheels? David

Hi Dave, Thanks for your interest. Manufactured some H pieces to the dimensions given by Clive, but still not there yet with the brakes. On one side the handbrake lever has been bent out of shape. Also, there is a large amount of free play in the handbrake lever pivot on one side caused by wear in the slave cylinder where it traps the pivot on the backplate. This really noticeable with the handbrake cable disconnected. This needs sorting before these work properly. So need more bits! I know that the self adjusting setup has a bad name; but persevering with them. David

Hi, Thanks for that, I think I'll try XVIvalve to see if he has any left before I disappear into the workshop. The only ones Ive found so far seem a bit steep at £14.75 a pair including postage:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-TRIUMPH-H-CLIP-FOR-THE-REAR-BRAKES-ON-TRIUMPH-1500-RWD-STAINLESS-STEEL-/112169169552?hash=item1a1dcdb290:g:Z6oAAOSwEetWA968

Hi, Trying to get the pesky self adjusting brakes on GT6 Mk3 to work over the weekend and relised that it's missing the little H piece on both sides (recently bought car). Triumph 519760 is nla everywhere I look. Can anyone tell me the dimensions and thickness; I'm contemplating making a pair up. Thanks David