Mad4classics

Hardest part has been getting the old seal out. New seal somewhat thinner; is it best to drive fully home or flush with face? David Ps. now found a new way to drain diff as no drain plug; but you get a soggy sleeve and EP90 isn't a substitute for Brylcreem! Not that I've got that much hair anymore.

Thanks Pete, Spotted the single split pin hole now (after a bite to eat and a cupa) no split pin in it though! NOT FITTED. Was expecting a "standard" castle nut. My Unipart WM doesn't give a torque figure for the pinion nut, doesn't seem to differentiate between solid and collapsable spacer, just says mark and return. Intereurope manual gives 90-100; does that sound right? Is it then on to next castle nut position? David

OK, leaking pinion oil seal. Spitfire Mk3 with FC numbered axle. Got fed up with topping up the diff and mopping the floor; it's getting so it sprays a line of oil under the car. Instead of a castle nut and split pin (or a nylock which it shouldn't be on an FC diff ?) uncovered this sort of double castle nut with no split pin and no visible hole for one. Not seen a nut like this before! What's the best way to tackle this; still mark and return to original position? or find WM torque figure? David

Anyone remember the PE Scorpio ignition units? I remember building one from the article that appeared in Practical Electronics. It used an inverter to charge a capacitor which then discharged into the coil - produced a fearsome spark and the points lasted ages. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRACTICAL-ELECTRONICS-Magazine-November-1971-PE-Scorpio-Car-Ignition/162387183527?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Ficep_ff3%3D2%26pub%3D5574933636%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5336728181%26customid%3D%26mpre%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eebay%2Eco%2Euk%2Fitm%2FPRACTICAL-ELECTRONICS-Magazine-November-1971-PE-Scorpio-Car-Ignition%2F162387183527%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1787507978680%26rvr_ts%3Dc1f70e451670a9c47784f6e7ffe5a545&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true

I think its down to your personal preference. I bought an epoxy kit sold for boat repairs to fix the mounting hole attachment points and gear lever exit which had become a bit ragged with age; plus a new sealing kit from the club shop. David

The StayUp floats are a good upgrade if you're after a replacment- and they're ethanol resistant and adjustable. http://stayupfloats.co.uk/ David

Minispares reference catalogue is the best source of information regarding bolt sizes:- http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/AKM2.aspx It shows all the different brake circuit arrangments. Master cylinder fittings are the place you're likely to encounter metric fittings everything else on a 1980 Mini will be UNF or UNC. David

Might be from SC Parts. Only say this because tubes from cylinders 2&3 go under those from 1&4. Some are opposite in that 2&3 are outside as in picture from Rimmers above, but the SC Parts one matches your configuration. David

Helicoil in alloy material is stronger than the original. they come in lengths that are a multiple of the diameter eg. 0.5D, 1.0D, 2.0D etc. The key is getting the insert in straight - seen Mini gearbox drain plugs helicoil (which are 5/8 UNC) done on the wonk, and it always leaks a little like that! Having been faced with a mixture of the correct unified fasteners, unified fasteners with metric heads!! (why?); and metric fittings - I'm always keen to replace like for like and keep a selection of thread repair kits to get me out of trouble. If you're going to buy something in, UNC and UNF kits are not expensive. https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=22020 If you're really faced with a BIG repair the EZ LOK Inserts are available here; but they're more expensive:- Carbon Steel: https://www.amafasteners.co.uk/product/319-5 Stainless: https://www.amafasteners.co.uk/product/303-5

Auto electrical spares sell the square section rubber seals and spong sealing cord by the meter in different sizes depending on the gauge size, just cut to length as Pete indicated. https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/bezels-glass--seals-for-smiths--lucas--jaeger-gauges-68-c.asp David

Is this the sort of thing you're looking for? https://www.part-on.co.uk/category/sealed-rivet/ David

Put the old cap back and stare at it very hard to see exactly where it's leaking. Are you sure the new filler cap is sealing properly so that the cooling system is presurising? Some GT6 radiators seem to have quit a deep filler neck. David

Not sure, but going by the OD you quote it's probably 4-40UNC. David

Maybe these people? https://hartsradiators.co.uk/ A brass radiator will usually take well to a diy repair, others not so easy. As Pete said; clean thouroughly + good flux and a high power pencil flame torch to get the job done quickly. I favour 50/50 solder for rad repairs. If you've sprung the filler neck joint, it might be better to have a specialist repair. David

My lever pivot was fortunately free, bug the rubber seal was hard and breaking up and there was only a few wisps of the felt pad left. Made a pad out of some thick felt; middle hole I punched but had to cut the outer edge with shears - it's sort of round.? and very well greased. David

After reading this thread I decided it was about time I greased up the secondary cable guides and compensator; in the process I discovered that the clevis pin joining the compensator to the lever was rusted solid so that they were moving as a pair! In operation, the relative movement between these two parts is quite small, so with the handbrake on or off, not something you really notice with a cursory glance, especially tucked up where it is. No amount of fighting it under a car on axle stands would shift it - so I had to disconnect the secondary cable from one wheel and feed it back through the secondary cable guide and out of the compensator; disconnect the cable from the handbrake to get the argumentative pair on the bench where I could give them some “what for” with a large hammer and a punch to remove the clevis pin and separate them. Feeding the secondary cable through the cable guide was really fun because I found the threaded straight end on my cable was just too long to go round the guide in one go; I had to fight it into a loop and feed the threaded portion though each end of the guide separately – greasy springy cable going everywhere except where I wanted it to go! Cleaned and painted the lever and compensator and reassembled everything with new clevis pins and plenty of grease. After adjusting things as per the WSM as Pete indicated earlier, the handbrake feels a whole lot more positive. David

Just a thought, not sure if they are still able to supply cellulose; but Brighton Auto Paints might be worth talking to:- http://www.autopaintsbrighton.com/triumph-classic--vintage-car-paint-cellulose-codes--colours-596-p.asp David

The condenser and coil primary form an LC resonant circuit which produce the high energy output from the coil; you need both to work properly. Still looking at the condensers from the Dizzy Doctor, he has them made to his own specification, with the full length of foil in them. David

The click adjust on different models is not the same. The original Delco spitfire distributor is one degree per click. Always seems a bit course to me for a vernier! Having said that the pictures first posted show a version without a vernier - so no click adjust...?? You should have 15thou clearance between the throttle lever to pin when the peddle is at rest. If you temporarily disconnect the throttle rod, which is sping loaded, it will rule out a peddle adjustment problem. The throttle spindle itself can get so badly worn it lets in air. SU do give a limit in the service manual. Disconnect the return spring temporarily and see if it rattles about in the main body. It could be just down to adjustment there's a lot of levers and linkages to play with. David

The handbook describes a method of setting the static timing by adding a spot of paint 6mm to the left of the timing hole in the crankshaft pull ( when viewed from rear ), and aligning this spot with the pointer; which if if mine is anything to go by is pretty blunt. From this initial point its down to advancing till it pinks then backing off till it doesn't as Pete described. I find I get a small amount of pinking with the standard 6deg advance, so I wouldn't get carried away - but engines are rarely identical. The original advance unit Delco 7953461 had a vernier adjustment, you seem to have a replacement unit of different design. The number is on the bottom face of the vacuum unit and assuming the distributor is original the number on the body should be 7953460. From your picture it looks as if the condenser is close enough to rub on the center shaft; you've Got to make sure there is clearance by adjusting the condenser clip. If the condenser catches the shaft it upsets the timing badly. It's not just the condenser that's poor quality these days, the clips supplied are usually not very good and need fettling to fit. I'm going to trying a Delco type Condenser from the Distributor Doctor next, they are supposed to be a lot better. Rimmer Bros stock the correct length screws if you need any. David

Don't know isthe honest answer, but just as a comparison my 1300 spitfire engine reads 83-84 at front and back, 87-88 on the core plugs either side of the distributor. Couldn't get any sensible readings from the exhaust side! Sump reads 65. Just Friday got rad back from being recored at local specialist and fitted yesterday because last weekend side mounting decided to part company from top header; been eying some blocked cores through the rad cap for a while so that was the final straw. Engine fitted with standard 82 thermostat. David

Doug, Didn't know that, I was toying with Monroe aswell. Oh well I'll have to think again. Thanks David

That's absolutely right; Lucas fuses however were rated by their blow "instantly" value.

There are several fuse rating standards around the world, this warning about USA standards you may have already seen. http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/fuses.pdf David

Not sure I'd want to alter the dynamics of the cone clutch operation. I'll stick with dipping the clutch for a smoother shift.