Mad4classics

Interesting; you're trying to protect the column switch and relay contacts because of the inductive loads. However, adding a diode across the relay and the solenoid will act to slow their disengagement. Here's a link to an interesting application note on this from TE Connectivity:- http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=13C3264_AppNote&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN They recommend a Zener + diode arrangement. David

Were you refering to the manifold clamps, it would certainly even up the force between the exhaust and inlet if a small weld was added to one dimple only and fettled to sit level. Aftermarket manifolds often suffer from having an increased flange thickness. On BMC A and B series engines you have to resort to fabricating stepped washers to take up the difference! David

Wheel studs are often overlooked and as Pete said, probably decades old. If you've got wire wheel adaptors, going bigger is not an option. However simply replacing 3/8" studs like for like, or longer if you've got alloys is a good idea in itself. David BTW: late Mini front hubs are 193ft/lb and keep going to the next split pin hole!

The part I think your missing , correct me if I'm wrong, looks like a shallow core plug. It's 1 1/4" in diameter by 1/8" deep looks as if the body has been peened over slightly in six positions to hold it in. I think H&H Ignition Solutions service Delco Remy distributors, they may be able to supply the missing plug. Failing that, maybe a standard core plug could be adapted; this one is a bit deep :- http://www.coreplugs.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=74_61&product_id=66 but could perhaps be cut down? The brass version would be easier to work and could be sealed in with Loctite 243. Just a thought... Regards, David

The Smiths drive units are as rare as you know what! Double Do'oh oh Well David

Pete is right, the calibration requirements on the speedo were fairly wide; the speedo was only supposed to be an “indication” of your speed and must not read slow. However, that's not to say the operating principle of a NEMAG speedo is wildly inaccurate because they can be made to read a lot more accurately than they generally do; it was the calibration requirements which were loose and after decades of use, things will obviously have drifted further out. I decided to do something about my tacho and speedo neither of which was reading correctly, so I re-calibrated them based on the principles gleaned from TM9-1829A Ordnance Maintenance: Speedometers, Tachometers, and Recorders - 1944 a War Department document. It was my winter project! I built a lash-up consisting of a large electromagnet a power supply and a geared electric motor and managed to get very good results; you’ve just got to have a lot of patience. David

Selecting Spitfire through this American site https://www.rockauto.com/ throws up a few alternatives; including MANN W920/17 which as far as I can see appears to be the same (read just as MAHOSIVE) as W916/1, apart from the case colour. Among others, it also throws up this WIX 51312 filter, which I think is the one which is supplied with the 5/8 to 3/4 adaptor and WIX list the Spitfire as a direct application of this filter on their website. You beat me to an oil change since my oil is still at the local Fedex depot and won't be delivered till tomorrow. Do'oh was going to do that today. David

Just for reference, the SU Carburetter High -Performance Manual gives the minimum air gap as about 0.010" to 0.015". On this new - unused fixed needle HS2 piston I keep as a spare, the height of the plastic stop measures 0.013". David -

With HS2 and trying to judge the standoff those stops would give you from the pictures; I suspect the larger stop is incorrect - but it's difficult to judge from pictures. The stop is not very tall. If the piston is held off too far it will upset adjustment. David

The plastic piston stop is there to stop the piston resting directly on the bridge. Fuel discoloration makes it brown. Might be available as a seperate part, worth a call to Burlen Ltd to find out. David

I always deliberate over this one too - loose is bad but too tight is worse. I think the procedure for hand tight is for new bearing fitment and is with the bearings lightly oiled, caliper removed and rotating the hub by hand in the same direction as you tighten. Back to the next split pin hole, mark and then disasemble to pack bearings with grease. For end float adjustment where the bearing is already packed with grease, my book says remove caliper and apply torque of not more than 5lb/ft while rotating in the same direction. Slacken to nearest split pin hole. I think the nut is 1/2unf so should give approx 4thou difference per split pin / hole combination. David

I believe the 3/4 adapter WIX 24037 was originally supplied with a filter and so was perhaps intended to screw into the filter first to replicate the original. I've lined these adapters up as they would screw into the oil filter which indicates the 5/8 threaded part is slightly longer on the 3/4 to 5/8 adapter. Must have seen the block face with the filter removed many times but I can,t remember if it looks like yours- sorry, will look hard at the next oil change. David

Probably should ask which car we're talking about,but.. The AAN needle was the standard needle for MK4 Spitfire. According to the MOSS catalogue recommendations https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/SPI001.pdf page A17 the AAQ is the richer needle recommendion for a 1500 when you've fitted both K&N filters and a tubular exhaust. I think mintylamb is still down, but if you like to compare http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/technical_carb.htm has a nice spreadsheet, but you'll need LibreOffice installed. If AAN is your standard needle I think AAQ would be a bit rich for a MK4 but OK if for a 1500 with different exhaust and air filters. David

That dirty brass barrel is the needle guide. The 'pip' you're referring to in association with the spring biases the needle up against one side of the jet. Should be marked with a line or V on the visible face. This type allows you to set the bias towards the throttle butterfly or away from it. Later types had a locater for the grub scew so could only be fitted one way round. David

Not easy, tyre manufacturers sell tyres to meet local regulations - in Europe ETRTO, one of a number of regualtory bodies for tyres worldwide. If you want to buy the latest standard it's €150; as with all standards - expensive. https://www.etrto.org/Publications/Order However, found this on the British Tyre Manufacturers Association website. https://btmauk.com/advice-about-tyres/ David ETRTO-2016-Approved-Rims (1).pdf

Did you mean to have so many 14 inch tyre in the table? You've lost 175/70x 13 along with several others in your latest table. David

Going tooo oversize is not a good idea. Modern tyres are matched to modern suspension setups. You must look at the manufacturers recommendations for rim size and consider the rolling radius when selecting an alternative tyre size. For instance, the difference in rolling radius between 155/80 x 13 and 175/70 x 13 is less than 3%. Taking Falken SN832 as an example the 155/80 x 13 approved rim width range is 4.0 to 5.0 and the 175/70 x 13 is 4.5 to 6.0 according to the 2018 Falken Pattern Digest page 25. David

That,s exactly so, it's hard to get a socket on it with the radiator and horns in the way . Just quoting the size. You'd need a socket to torque it up. David

It's 1 7/16 AF, bought a large open ended spanner to fit. David

The TR Register is a member club of the FBHVC. Don't think the TSSC is? David

Just read through this thread. Last weekend did a round trip of 750+ miles in GT6 mk3. On the journey there, the oil level went down from the high mark to half way. So obviously though "this is going to be hovering on the low mark by the time we get back!" However, after the return journey it was still sitting at the half way point. Sounds like the same issue. As Gully said, does anyone know the correct dipstick dimensions? David

Pete, Spitsbits in the States do a very close copy of the original AC pump which has a nice smooth land area on the lever where it bears on the cam, I believe it's the same pump for a Herald??? Some of the cheap repro ones look as if the lever has been punched from sheet with a die that's seen better days and thrown straight in the plating bath without deburring! http://www.spitbits.com/store/18-OE-Quality-FUEL-PUMP-with-lever-and-gasket-MK1-MK3-SPIT-P4892.aspx Apparently they also keep a repair kit for it. I don't suppose you know of any uk based supplier who stock something of this quality? David

Wayne, I was coming from the point of view of the timing mark probably being OK. The distributor however gets a hard life and is often overlooked when it comes to rebuild time. However the springs do weaken over time and they wear the posts on which they attach. The weights also wear their pivot posts and the main shaft bushes wear etc... Sometimes the effect of all this is that the distributor has an initial advance even at tickover / static and as the maximum mechanical advance is limited (22deg for a MK3 GT6;20deg MK2 and 15/19degree MK1 according to my book) then the effective all-in advance will not be as much if you stick by the book figure. But you can compensate for this by advancing the ignition timing, this puts it about right in the mid RPM range which is where the engine spends most time when your driving - but it will be over advanced low down where you probably won't notice a problem and under advanced as you approach the RED line (we don't do that any more ) . It was just my musings when you described advancing the ignition meant a whole better driving experience. Now as Pete says it's definitely time for a cup of tea. David

The distributor advance at any rpm is the sum of static + mechanical + vacuum. Very generally a total advance of ~ 32-33 degrees all-in is about right. So is the distributor the correct one? Is the vacuum advance the correct one (mine wasn't)? Also a worn distributor will give misleading figures. The springs could have weakened or the distributor worn so that you're getting more advance at tickover than you should. With a badly worn distributor you can get far less than 30+ degrees all-in by adhearing to the book figures because you've started with more advance than you bargined for. (All figures here rough guide only) Gully, Early Mini engines had a plate on the bell housing you could rotate aside by slackening a bolt in order to view timing marks on the flywheel. Probably others too...

I've noticed ; but seriously where is IT, can't find it on the map, is there a large town nearby that I would know? David