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It makes the steering heavier and has very little effect on the dreaded tuck-under over-steer. I actually find my GT6 nicer to drive on original size tyres, and even the Mk1 Vitesse handles no worse on 155s than it did on 175s. But YMMV.

It's a scale model of a water tower for an N-gauge railway.

If the internal wiring of the dynamator is the same as a normal alternator then you do NOT want to connect the F terminal directly to ignition. The warning lamp goes between them - see item 3 on the wiring diagram. When the engine is not running, the field winding feed (the F terminal) doesn't have voltage on it, so the ignition supply (white wire) from the switch (5) powers the warning lamp (3) through a circuit that includes the field winding. That should be enough current to kick-start the alternator once the engine is running. Do the earthing out test as Clive suggested. Then repeat at the dynamator terminal. If the bulb lights up it should work. One question - are you sure you've got the terminals at the dynamator the right way round? The small spade on the end doesn't look man enough for the main output. I'd expect the big bolt to be that, and the small spade to be the warning lamp. Remember that Lucas 15ACR uses a 1/4" spade for the light and a PAIR of 3/8" ones for the 35A output. But maybe I'm misinterpreting the photo.

Same here - whole site is affected

I don't think you should expect the WL/F to be connected to ignition. The thinner wire from the generator is the field winding. The other thinner wire connects to the ignition warning lamp, the other end of which is connected to ignition (white wire). On a dynamo, the control box drove the field winding. On an alternator, it's internally conrolled and will be at battery voltage when charging, hence a bulb between there and supply will go out when all is well. That's why the two small wires are connected together (WL to F).

I refurbished the pump on my Vitesse quite some years ago. It's not at all hard. Unfortunately I've since had to change the engine and ended up with that pump being completely incompatible due to the lever being the wrong shape.

Well, my GT6 is now 17 years old since its restoration, and hasn't needed any welding. It also doesn't overheat but the driver does...

As Chris and Dave said, unless you've got a particularly rotten fuel system, there should never be a need for a second filter. Crap can get in via the filler, or by flaking off a rusty tank. A filter between tank and pump deals with that. If stuff is being "generated" within the fuel pump you've got more serious problems. That said, working the pump harder wouldn't be a bad thing on Tessa at the moment. I've had to put a pressure regulator in because the after-market electric pump was too aggressive.

If you've got a six in it then it's a GT6 as far as mechanical parts go - although the 2.5 probably wants a slightly bigger than standard GT6 exhaust.

I've put one in the boot on Toby (Mk3 Spitfire) as it was easy to do. I've adopted a slightly non-standard route for the pipe which puts the filter tucked away in a corner where it's not too vulnerable to luggage. On Tessa (and, I think, the GT6) the filter is in the engine bay just before the fuel pump. That's a better location, I reckon, for a retro-fit to an existing fuel system. If you're replacing all the pipes at the same time, using non-ferrous pipe, like I have on Toby, then either location should work just as well. I slightly wonder whether under the bonnet is easier for service replacement, although in the boot is going to remain cleaner and thus easier to inspect. Fitting a second filter after the pump... will only really catch the stuff that's been through the pump and potentially already fouled up the valves, causing as much problem as it would in the carbs.

It looks like a combined water temperature (probably capillary) and oil pressure gauge to me. They're fairly common - my Vitesse had one for a while. Original fit on some MGs, I believe.

Gearbox number with just a G prefix would be a 948 Herald, apparently. The photo looks about the right shape for a small car (Standard 8/10, Herald, etc.) box but appears to be an integral bell housing. That fits the earlier description by Colin, which Richard said was Standard 8 / 10 / Atlas.

Excellent news! Glad we could help.

Welcome Sheridan, from another Mk3 GT6 owner (there's obviously lots of us here!) Unlike Gully's, my GT6 was built with OD but like his it now sports a 3.63 diff. This is mostly because I discovered, after the fourth time it did the CT Round Britain Reliability Run, that one of its previous owners had fitted a 13/60 Herald diff (4.11 ratio). Overdrive is definitely nice to have but, if you have the 3.27 diff, not essential. The 3.27 is a little delicate, though.

That last one is important to note. I'm not sure on the Mk2 head but on the Mk1 the studs for either end of the exhaust manifold enter the water jacket and removing them empties all your coolant. I know this because a previous owner fitted bolts instead... P.S. I have put my first name in the signature but I suppose I could add the surname, too, if you want.

On the total number of holes, be aware that the manifold gasket (and possibly the manifold and head) may have provision for three dowels but the factory only ever fitted two. This is not uncommon.

Looking at the Canleys diagrams, I think my memory is right. There are three types of studs used, and only one is 5/16". The inlet manifold is held, at the top, by three 5/16" studs, 101962 The exhaust manifold is held, ends and top, by four 3/8" studs, 105124 The whole lot is then clamped by six double-ended clamps on 3/8" studs, 105125. I think the dowels locate the inlet manifold

The left hand stalk controls headlamp beam only. Up for main, down for dip, pull towards you to flash. Wipers on a Mk4 should be a square knob on the dash, below where your (non-standard) clock is fitted. Rotate right for wipe, two speeds, and push for wash.

Have you got your dizzy 180 degrees out? Edit: Bah, Pete beat me to it.

I tried velcro for the GT6 carpets to hold them to the bulkhead. It wasn't entirely successful. Seems OK for floor location, though.

Which mk or Vitesse? The Mk1 manifolds are weird and the studs are a mix of mostly 3/8" UNF but 5/16" UNF for inlet retainers. It's a while since I took the manifolds off my GT6 so I don't remember the Mk2 details.

The smaller one definitely looks like it might serve as a spanner for the nut on a Herald / early Spitfire ignition switch. The larger one is for turning something else but I can't place the hole pattern.

Ah, yes, I didn't look closely enough and mis-remembered. My 1972 GT6 has hazard lights and I'd forgotten this was a "posh car" feature at the time. To be honest, since you don't have the cut-out between the big instruments, I wouldn't bother trying to retrofit them. The high beam is controlled by the left hand stalk on the column - up for main, down for dip. Is this not working?

Hello Frank. Welcome to the family. 1) As has been said, petrol smell is not unusual. The tank needs to breathe and on these pre-1980 cars that means it's just vented to atmosphere. Modern cars are all fitted with charcoal canisters in the tank vent to trap the fumes and later feed them into the engine to be burned. No such careful handling on a Triumph. However, it shouldn't normally be so strong as to stick to your clothes. 2) The heater valve can seize up, as has been said, but so can the cable that operates it and, on Mk4/1500, the control lever itself. I've never been able to shift the control on my GT6 in the 25 years I've owned it. 3) Indicator self-cancelling is handled by a small clip on the top of the steering column. This is often mis-aligned so that you need to turn the wheel a LONG way one way for it to work, and sometimes that means it doesn't work at all the other way. Fairly easy to fix if that is the problem, but it does involve removing the steering wheel and de-coupling the shaft from the rack. 4) "search lights?" You should have hazards on a Mk4 but no spots or fogs. Retro-fitting is possible. 5) How long is a piece of string? There's lots of things that can be done but very few are "needed". 6) I don't really know your area but Moordale Motors are in North London and are very good with anything Triumph.

I'm pretty sure all Heralds had 1/4" fuel pipe originally. Later cars (Mk4 Spitfire, Dolomite) got 5/16" mostly.