Ian Foster

I used this Shacktune kit but shimmed it up so I had 0.002" free play. This was used in conjunction with new stub axles and bearings, as the old stub axles were quite worn where the inner part of the bearing had been rotating. (190K miles though to be fair). Vertical links also replaced. Paranoid me!!? IIRC the likes of the MGB use the spacer as part of the standard set up. Ian

Bit harsh!

Triumph had various versions of the air box on the 4 and 6 cyl cars, both with and without feed tubes from the front. Some have holes/slots in the bottom and or sides and top, suggesting they were trying to address issues if getting equal airflow to the front and rear carb. There are some Triumph original designs that do similar. The box shown in Piglet's OP has slots in the top, which would appear to drawing hot air from the top of the engine bay???. I previously found this image of an airbox (probably modified) on a 4 cyl car which looks to have been designed specifically to get air to the rear carb, although there is no ducting to the front of the car. On the GT6 the box is of uniform thickness and the WSM and original brochures show inlet tubes on the front of the box, but no pipes, which seem to appear later (perhaps on the Mk3). The saloons have a particular problem due to the proximity of the suspension turret and as a consequence have very thin airboxes. Late versions (2500S IIRC) have a unique airbox enlarged and fed centrally from the bottom. On my GT6 Mk2, I have CD175 carbs (as fitted when I bought the car in 1977) so I have limited space between the face of the carb and the wheel arch and currently use K&N filters until such time as I can come up with an airbox designs which ticks enough of the boxes. Ian i

Jonny You may like to consider fitting a bearing spacer kit, which comprises a precision length tube which sits over the stub axle and incorporates shims to set up the end float. The nut is then tightened to a specific torque. This stops the inner part of the bearing races rotating and wearing the stub axle and that washer. You don't state model, but I got mine for my GT6 from Shacktune. One of the best 'mods' I have done and bearings seem to be very stable as a result. Ian

But we all know 'shiny is fast'! Ian

Paul That looks like a very nice (shiny) smooth ducting. Can you advise the size and supplier. Ian

My GT6 lived on a diet of Duckhams 20/50 (the green stuff) between 1978 and about 1993 during which time I took the mileage from 68-185K, but post rebuild has been partial to Valvoline VR1. I think just changing it regularly and having fresh oil in the for winter when it is more likely to be standing, is probably the most important thing. Compared to the price of synthetics our 'good ol' mineral oils are still fairly affordable. Ian

Chris/Gary +1 for Koni 80-1717 Open 292mm/closed 216mm. Ian

Bazza/Richard Those clips are different to the ones on my GT6 Delco, which are flat spring steel hooked into the vac advance unit.. See attached photo of a spare unit. Ian

Recent Wheeler Dealers with a Volvo B18, describes a basic SU refurb and set up. Electric fan will put load on the alternator and decrease idle revs slightly. Known by tuners as 'the curse of the electric fan'. Ian

Pat I built chassis extension brackets for my GT6 Mk2 as per the attached drawing. These do the same thing as the proprietary brackets, but also achieve the correct fore and aft position to line up with the bottom mount. Used with Koni 80-1717 dampers (292mm open, 216mm closed) - usually sold for the front of a classic mini. The bushes had to be drilled out slightly, but were supplied with thick wall tubes. PS I see you are Dorset-shout if you want to meet up to have a look. PPS I also had a bad experience of 'adjustable' SPAX. Ian GT6-Damper Bracket.pdf

Clearly not a condenser issue then. When you replaced the stat, did you top up and run the system with the heater on. I'm just thinking that when you opened the heater valve (your initial trigger to the problem) water was drawn into the heater creating a deficit (airlock) elsewhere. I have been very particular about how I refill my cooling system, creating a good head and bleed path above the radiator and the thermostat housing using clear pipe and funnels, so as to get all of the air out. It does show definite benefits. Does your radiator cap seal properly ? If not the system won't pull water back in properly as it cools. Ian

Cliff I also have a VOX (VT30) amp. Clever bit of kit. (epic thread drift BTW) Do we know if the patient is running on points or EI. Heater valve could easily drop water on the exhaust manifold. Hot coolant has a definite smell, but not sure I have ever smelt it burnt off an exhaust. Picture shows water to normal level in the rad, but has it been lost from the system, ie has the level in the overflow bottle changed? Ian

Alan Have you checked the float levels. Another possibility might be air leaks, but that would usually case idle to run too high. Ian

Hi Dan Presumably as you have passed the machinist stage, various decisions have already been made, ie crank regrind, new pistons and rebore etc. Is your objective to rebuild as standard or do you have aspirations to take it further and pep things up a bit. I rebuilt my Mk2 engine in 2010/11 and would be happy to share the spec with you if it would help. Ian

Pete I have a NOS distributor cap, red rotor arm, Magnacor leads and Boche triple electrode plugs, similar to Iain's spec and have not experienced any problems to date. The Pertronix is supposedly tolerant of the ignition being left on without the engine running. It will be interesting to see if the coil generates any significant heat in this situation I could definitely feel the improvement when I changed from a Lucas? sports coil. Ian

Pertronix recommend their Flamethrower 45000V coil for best results with the Ignitor II. I have this set up on my Mk2 GT6 and am very happy with it. Presumably you could go this route if you bypass the ballast resistor. Ian

You could always add a leaf to your existing spring. I did this on my rotoflex GT6 to good effect. I added a leaf in the middle and only had to slot the inner brackets slightly to suit. Ian

Mine where made by 'Carol' as well! Pleased to see she is still keeping busy. Ian

Mine was similar when I started. Hardboard was used to replace any missing sections and then it was stabilized with epoxy resin and glass fibre. I used an external covering of Dynamat and lined it internally with aluminium foil tape. Omitting the original 'insulation in a plastic bag' allows more airflow. Ian

Velcroed slippers were banned in my Dad's care home, as 'residents tended to rub and stick their feet together and then 'face plant' when they got up! Who knew......?? Ian

Hi Johno Standard springs for GT6 are rated at 220lb/in. I have 330 lb/in 'uprated' springs on my Mk2, which were supplied by Triumphtune in the 1980s, which I use with Koni fixed seat dampers. This lowers the front slightly. I always felt the front end was a bit 'floaty' and the uprated strings and of course the new and better spec dampers were a significant improvement in my opinion. Moss Europe took over the Triumphtune range and although they list TT4701PR 330lb/in springs, they are shown as NCA (not currently available) https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/uprated-road-springs-front.html SC parts list a 330lb/in spring for Spitfire/Herald with a free length of 250mm. (they state the free length or original springs is 325mm) https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/coil-spring-1-148377.html Rimmers list an uprated spring with a rate of 264lb/in which is 20% over standard. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-212425UR The club shop have 'heavy duty' GT6/Herald/Vitesse spring at 15% over standard ie 253lb/in and state that 'they will raise the ride height unless used with adjustable pan shocks'. Others have used springs rated at 480lb/in and above. Without taking the springs off my car I cannot confirm the free length (others may have that info) but the fitted length is circa 190mm. Hope this helps. I am sure others will chip in. Ian

Possibly try one of the 'recyclers' eg Spitfire Graveyard. No experience but might be worth a punt. Also possibly Chic Doig (Scotland) I went the route of patching/strengthening my original one with glass/epoxy, added Dynamat to the outside and lined the inside with aluminium foil tape. Ian

So do Jaguar IIRC ! Ian

NPD For reference the suction version of the Huco electric pump has a specified pressure of 2.1 PSI viz:- Specification:- Pressure 2.1 PSI Flow 27.5 Gallons per Hour (125 Litres per Hour) Union fuel pipe size 5/16 inch / 8mm This pump is a suction type and designed to be fitted in the engine bay of the vehicle. This pump is ideal for use with Dellorto or Weber carburettors, the low pressure eliminates the need for a pressure regulator. Manufacturers part number 133010 Ian