yorkshire_spam

I had a root around in the garage and found my spare indicator stalk - turns out it's for my Dolomite, not my Spitfire Dolomite Type: 😞 So I took the cowl off the Spitfire and tried to get a photo of that... with limited success:

Removing the dizzy to prime the oil is too much of a pain in the ass for my liking. Plugs out and low tension disconnected on the coil and turn it on the starter until the pressure light goes out has always worked for me. Never had a problem with the double anti-drain filters on the spitfire 1500, but I always pour some oil in the filter and make a right mess when I fit the filter.

And there was me thinking "Glasgow Herald" was a news paper.

I have a "vintage" King Dick 3/8 ratchet that has the "push through" drive on the end... take that out and add a short 3/8 extension (if required) and it's great for square section plugs. A bit like this: Image stolen from the interweb google image search.

25ish miles out in the Spitfire this evening, roof down and over the moors on the national limit roads... a really nice reminder how much fun the car is. Streetview screenshot (no photos, to busy driving!) Test run route: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1Wk85FvMiFTzWu2OexpbpKWdpePM9AoCR&ll=53.76148273664534%2C-1.9375549999999975&z=12

I use the 713/9 on the Spitfire (with the adapter) https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 713~9 But I have a habit of trying to find land rover parts I can fit to a Triumph... probably because I used to be into Land Rovers.

from mintylamb: Green: AAR Light Grey AAQ Darker Grey ABZ: I'm on ABZ at the moment, but might end up changing again. Cheers, Sam

I'm always quite pleased to find that if you google my name you don't find me at all in the first 4 pages (maybe more, I haven't checked) or in any of the image search results... Just the way I like it.

I use my 1973 Dolomite as my daily driver, work and back every day. Touch wood it hasn't let me down to date. Having "fettled" my Spitfire 1500 over the years since I bought it I'm quite confident getting on a ferry and driving around 10 Countries in 4 or 5 days taking in alpine passes. Obviously I take a decent basic spares and tool kit with me (and have recovery policy in place!) With any engine/model there will be weak spots or concerns that need addressing but once they are sorted there's not reason not to trust a classic as a daily runner.

Od/non od gt6s had different diffs: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/diff.htm3.27 vs 3.89 hence the pinion drive difference. 20% is likely to be the wrong pinion, a lesser difference could be tyres+calibration

What ignition system are you using? Possibly condense or coil on their way out?

It's the USA federal version, but it helps: I modified mine when I re-wired adding fuses and relays under the dash:

Holy thread revival Batman! 😉

Technically you shouldn't use silicone hoses/pipe parts where they have contact with fuel, but this seems to have lasted since 2014 without issue:

Some years ago I found the only supplier I could get it from was Amazon.com - so I imported a reel of 1/4" - at the time (2015) it worked out at £32 for 7.5 meters. It's gone up a bit since then!

I don't think there's a simple route to vented discs on a Spitfire? I think drilled discs are more of a gimmick than a real benefit. Standard (decent quality) discs, well serviced calipers and some good pads (Mintex m1144 compound) - plenty of braking power for a car as light as a Spitfire.

Unless my carb is miles out I go 1 flat at a time - helps me keep track of what I've changed. With the colour tune is the flame colour right at tick over, on throttle or both? I've found on SU carbs I struggled to get colour tune to look right all the way through the rev range. (even with a decent needle selection to try) These days I tune by performance, sound and plug colour. Checking with colour tune shows it "wrong" at tick over, but right further up the rev range.

You can probably check that the oil feed isn't blocked off just by making sure there's sufficient oil in the rocker area after the external feed has been removed, if there isn't then it's time to start head removal and things like that.

Worth checking that the rocker feed wasn't blanked off when the external feed was fitted. A) Very unlikely b) probably worth looking at getting an adapter and a filter with an anti-drain valve. (Search Wix adapter and mann W713/9 on here and other forums) Unless it persist not a major issue as long as you don't thrash it straight from start up C) depends a lot on oil condition etc. 60ish cold, 25 hot doesn't sound terrible, at tick-over (unless it ticks over at 2K!) D) Not sure, I've never noticed an audible sign of worn thrusts, only found it by checking the float on the crank via the pulley.

When I got my Spitfire 1500 it had a Phoenix wheel-barrow "system" - straight through from the manifold down pipe to a Y pipe and then 2 small back boxes. It was fine for pottering around but any sustained mileage at speed led to your ears ringing unless you wore ear plugs. Since then I've added a Jetex centre resonator and that's toned it down a little so that it's manageable at speed. TBH I'd like to tone it down a little further, but have other stuff to do right now!

Namrick do a good UNF mixed bag, I tend to buy one every time I need something specific to bulk out the order. 450 UNF BZP mixed for 15ukp: https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Mixed_Packs_48.html

Thanks Andy!

Brilliant, many thanks @Colin Lindsay

Wow, it would not have occurred to me in a 100 years that they wouldn't be pre greased!

Hmmm my money would have been on the contacts on the back of fuse 3 (bottom) as it feeds horn, main beam and hazards (brown - always live, purple - fuse always live), you live and learn!