yorkshire_spam

Wide rad is well worth it, the 1500s work the oil hard and anything you can do to keep the temp more moderate is well worth it.

I used to use Girling red grease - as it was "rubber safe", just in case it got on the slave cylinder. But in the last 10+ years I've always used copper slip.

For 2000 stuff I'd try Chris Witor https://www.chriswitor.com/products.php?cat=249 Or for brake parts in general "Bigg Red" http://biggred.co.uk/ although parts from them seem to be easier to find on eBay than on their own website http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/Bigg-Red-Ltd Normal hoses. IMHO braided are mostly evil except when a custom flexible is needed.

Excellent stuff @wimpus!!! Good for another 300K,Kms!

Personally I don't really like braided hoses for the reasons given above (no way to see when they are past it and need replacing unless the outer braid is physically damaged). The only application where I'll consider them is where a custom flexible is required, such as the brake conversion I have on the front of my Dolomite (originally fixed caliper with fixed pipe, now a moving caliper with a very short custom flexible pipe), on top of that I wouldn't clamp one under any circumstances as the teflon inners aren't really up to it. BUT I disagree about clamping standard rubber hoses, provided the hose isn't already past it and you do it properly I don't see anything wrong with clamping a standard rubber flexible brake hose.

Dunno, but mine is a '77 build and '78 registered Spitfire 1500 and it has the 2 separate units.

Are you wanting to route it down the left or right of the vehicle? On the right (uk drivers side) there's the Speedo drive hole, wiper rack shaft, wiper loom and washer pipe holes. Down the left there's the hole for the main loom through the bulkhead just below the solenoid - that's were I routed the pipe for my oil pressure gauge.

Result! Alls well that ends well!

I found in my Spitfire 1500 at 70+ on the Autobahn the steering wheel was pointless, fitting stiffer and slightly lower front springs made a HUGE difference. The lean might be a saggy spring on one side, or as Pete says, maybe the ARB has acquired a permanent twist?

IMHO K&N pancakes won't stop you getting it tuned, whether or not they offer any performance benefit or not is another question - but do make sure they are clean and free-flowing. I've been more than happy with the tune-ability of my 1500 engine on K&N filters over the years, all of this "not original, you won't get it tuned right" has a grain of truth, but anything that's not as per factory will cause just as much (if not more) trouble. eg. worn carbs, damaged/worn/tired carbs springs, leaking manifolds, leaking breather systems, etc etc. I think the bigger issue is the use of HS4/SU carbs. and the question of whether HS4 are "big enough" for that engine - and then choosing the right needle. I guess we need to start with "what's wrong with it right now?" The "sometimes good, sometimes bad" nature of the running issues suggest it's not something fundamentally wrong with your set-up but that you have an intermittent fault? Provided HS4s flow enough for the engine a good rolling road familiar with SU carbs should be able to grind a set of custom needles to give spot on tuning, but that's really not an "on the drive" DIY job!

Clutch pipe? Or maybe something Vitesse related and never used on a Herald? (Vitesse starter wiring?)

Yeah, that horrible moment you realise the tread on the upright is knackered and it's not a bolt you can replace!

I've had a 0% success rate with Eezibleed, all it seemed to do was presurise things and then p155 fluid everywhere. On the other hand I really rate the 1-way valve solo-bleed things like these: Although I find I get 2 or 3 sessions (over a period of months/years) out of them before they clog up, but at about 4 quid each I'm not that fussed. Cheers, Sam

Hi Conor, I have a few spare but still attached to driveshafts. If I can get out in the garage this evening I'll try and strip a couple off the shafts and check them.

I wonder if the Canley one will have an "Owen Springs" sticker on it?

On that basis - in the short term sling any cheap assortment of Triumph parts that make up a complete engine into it, just so it runs. Then take your time and find an EARLY 1300 "small journal" engine - a very good basis for a track/sprint car - it'll rev like mad! Clive is spot on! (As ever) - not all 1300 engines were born equal!

Rimmers?!?!? https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=trunnionless-front-suspension-kit

Fitted to my Spitfire a few years ago, I was ok with the old uprights when pottering around the UK, but when I started doing European trips I wanted the piece of mind that I wasn't going to have one snap half-way up the Stelvio. From my point of view well worth the money for that re-assurance alone.

It's a little rough and ready, but it does the job (3mm thick home made rubber gasket under the plate...)

Cut the top off the cover plate and weld in a 15mm(ish) steel strip to put a step in it to clear the stud tops. I'll see if I can find a picture of mine.

Tidy!

Thanks for the recommendation! I was going by the prices from Larkspeed for the Konis since they are local. Hmmmmm. If I sell a kidney maybe I can have the Konis.

Hmmm Unbranded £15 each Monroe branded - just over £25 each KYB - about £40-£50 each, but "unobtinium" Koni about £100 each I don't really want to pay an extra £20 for the Monroes if the quality is no better than the no-name ones.

So, after the engine rebuild I can't quite afford the Koni rear shocks I've set my heart on, but could do with some replacements. I've found Monroe branded ones at a reasonable price, but are they any good? Or just a Monroe brand on the same shocking brandless tat that gets sold?

The seam trims on the wing tops, rear panels and boot lid edge are held on with these: https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Triumph-Spitfire---GT6-Rear-Panel-Moulding-Clips-KIT46P.html#SID=45 I use a very large flat bladed screwdriver to try and ease them off progressively, as they start to move try to spot where the clips are and gently leaver close to those spots. As @Badwolf says, go gentle and whatever you do don't crease/bend them!