RogerH

Some bleed nipples ar better than others at stopping air passing by the threads The brake and fuel pipe kit supplier - Automec - do some nice good fitting nipples Could an 'O: ring be fitted inside as a Mod' ??? Roger

Hi Riger, TRGB are getting a good name for their workshop efforts. I don;t know if they do TRiumph models other than TR's Worth a call as they are near(ish) to you https://www.trgb.co.uk/ Roger

The rubber tube (with plug and slit) + jam jar (not just any jam jar but an M&S jam jar) is yet to be TRumped. The only problem is that you do need an extra pair of hands. I got this off Ebay the other day. Haven't TRied it yet https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Self-Bleeder-Testing-Bleed-Kit-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Bleeding-0-30-Hg/203081560119?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 It does look good for £12 Roger

Generally if you reverse the polarity they will suck light in rather like a black hole not work They are conventional diodes that produce light - wow. A normal diode blocks one way and allows current to flow the other way. TRy and get them swapped. Roger

The problem with parts from the USA is that whatever the Dollar $ price is it will be that in pounds £ - so the $179 will become £179 and thus no saving. But there will be import duty etc. Roger

Hi Oliver, I take it that your comp figures are in 'Bars' as mentioned they are al over the place. Run engine till warm. Take all plugs out Open the throttle butterfly wide open Spin engine 5 complete turns. Record the pressure. Repeat the above but add a good squirt of engine oil into each pot immediately before attaching the gauge and spinning the engine. Roger

A nice disc of polished Stainless Steel Roger

Hi Paul, take heed of what Pete says. It isn't for the faint hearted. Now lets sort your heart out. There are two parts to this 1 - the welding 2 - the fabrication. Welding - you need at least a half decent MIG welder - The Ckarke 100E (with gas) does work but has almost no refinements. If you have a decent number of £££ in your wallet consider an R-Tec (£500) - they will give you a half day training with a new purchase. Practice practice practice - use good clean spare mild steel to form butt joints and plug welds. It will work with CO2 gas but use at least CO2 + Argon mix The throw away bottles work well and not overly expensive. Consider local night classes at a local college if they are available. As mentioned log onto welding forums Fabrication. Have you got metal working tools - bending bars/snips/drills/files ................................................... Can you use them? Practice practice practice Almost everybody can do anything if you know what you want and prepared to learn. Roger

Back in the 90's I had one of the first car radios with a digital display. I got it through one of the electronic magazines at the time. Probably auctioned/excess stock that was re-badged. I'm sure its original brand was 'Tacaro' whoever they are. It worked very well All the bands + cassette. Turn it on and it played - what more could one ask for. I replaced it with a Blaupunkt with a similar spec and that worked very well. I now have a over complex Kenwood - utter rubbish Roger

I have option 5. A fancy new modern super duper lights whistles and bells but it is crap. Almost impossible to play with while driving. Even turning the volume up is quite dangerous. My solution - it is not connected. But it fills a hole. Roger

Be aware - if you go for option 2 (Isolating the radio) the radio aerial outer screen on the cable is earthed. That could be fun. reversing the car polarity is the sure way to do it. If you can do without the CD player than many 1950's classic radios are being converted to MP3 etdc. Roger

I can see the damned thing in my minds eye. It is taking the micky. Roger

Hi Colin, I searched my garage from top to bottom and the balance weight evaded me - sorry. Roger

I'll have a look tomorrow and get back to you. Roger

Hi Colin, I may have one off a TR4A. Have you got any dimensions for when I dig it out (assuming I can find it), Roger

I think all the V5's in this auction do have some car with it. Roger

That proposal of notice makes very interesting reading. I wonder if the administrator realises he is being hoodwinked or perhaps it is part of the way it works. Roger

Hi Clive, quite right. It is a very sad episode. Having scratched my head all day, it would appear that I didn't press enter on an earlier post - doh!!! Roger

There have been many TR and other Triumph owners damaged both financially and mentally by these folk. I would suggest not to go near them. Roger

Interesting !! - I'm sure I posted a reply in response to JohnD's post. It appears to have disappeared. Or did I not press 'enter' Roger

Hi Chris, I had my bits and pieces done along while ago so prices wouldn't compare. However as a comparison the TR4/4A light fitting cast apprx £50 each side. New ones were not very well made. They are better these days. The Wembly bunch can refurb the mazak casting. They copper plate and polish back until the corrosion pits are full of copper then they copper/nickel/chrome the whole lot - mirror finish The bumpers were apprx £250 (mid 90's) but they also straighten all the bends and dings. Door handles were not expensive. Handle in the shops at the time were the wrong variety and did not have the internal locking capability - Bedford TRuck I understand. Roger

Hi Chris, if a good cleaning still leaves them tatty then you have done more or less all you can do. If new parts are of good quality then buy new. If the new parts are 'iffy' then it may be better to get them refurbished. Have you considered stainless steel bumpers - if they are available. Have you shopped around for prices. Some plating shops charge interesting prices others charge sensible prices. I have used a very good Metal Refinishers in Wembly (London). They mainly work on industrial stuff but do classic's as a side line. The prices are good the quality even gooderer Roger

I use these people for locking wire https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/T04IR671X Roger

Hi Colin, If it can come off easy then perhaps it will become a weekly chore. Roger

Oh Dear, I'm now itching to modify my TR door skins. It could be done. Cut the door chassis at the flange with the skin so that the flange stays with the skin On the detached skin, weld on a new flange assembly protruding from the door skin - this slides onto the door chassis. Drill and locate a good number of rivnuts into the door chassis to hold the door skin. There is certainly room to play with Roger