rogerguzzi

Hello Adrian They are cheap and nasty spring washers made down to a price I have had the same rubbish probably better to use the old ones ? I have even put the set back on them by a gentle twist(still better than those!) Roger

Hello All Here is one I made to remove the switch Bezels (it will adjust for both sizes) Roger

Hello Clive No I have not you may be onto something they AVO,s What I will do lubricate them first and wind them one way or the other and count the clicks to see what Alan had them set at(not that it is going anywhere in the near future!) I have just found a MK2 Vitesse dash assembly in the other shed(Tent) and it has 5 dial holes so I may re veneer it as I have a piece the same as I used on Spitty and it is a nice pattern not to in your face if you know what I mean? Then there is all the wiring to sort out and the seat belts(does anybody have the details for fitting 3 point in the rear of a convertible ?) while I have all the trim out! Plus fit the 150 carbs and O/D gearbox! (I feel tired now just thinking about it all) Roger

Hello All I am working on the late(much missed Oldtuckers Vitesse to make it a bit more every day friendly!) The springs on it now are marked 480!(teeth rattling) but probably perfect for sprinting1 So it has adjustable spring seat so does that mean I can use springs of any length spring from say 9" to 10.5"? and adjust the seat to get the ride Hight I want? I was thinking of 350lbs as Nick suggested. I was thinking of having it on the road this year but this bug has stopped that! So I have finished up taking lots of it apart!!!! not that Alans work was bad but aimed at Sprinting I have decided to fit an Denso alternator(had a spare one lying about and seemed a shame not to?)and I can get rid of the regulator and move the fuse box to inside and more fuses etc. I have reposition the remote oil filter and removed the heater/cooler unit and tided up the rear to front oil feed So now only the new seat belts to fit and the rebuilt gearbox/overdrive plus the 150 carbs plus lots of other jobs(still not going anywhere and Spitty is ready for the off and champing at the bit!) A photo of the chaos! Roger

Hello All I put a PH2 in my 1500 Spitfire with fully balanced crank ,rods, pistons ect block decked and head reworked by me! It also runs ITB fuel injection (Microsquirt) She still seems to pull the same at low revs but at 2500rpm starts to really come alive and by 3000rpm seems to pull like a train. Roger

Hello Johny I have done that on one of my gearboxes I made a small plate to hold it in the new position (belt and braces!) I fit new needle rollers Roger

Hello All Here you go https://www.warco.co.uk/sheet-metal-folder-bender/89-vice-brake-adjustable-jaw-benders.html Roger

Hello All I have been using this for about 7+ years and it does not seem to go black! Not the cheapest but as all say differentials are not cheap either!!! Roger

Hello Peter I think the cooler maybe a high pressure one but I fitted into the low pressure return line! The reasoning being (as told by others!) the fuel coming from the tank probably not to warm but the fuel going back has picked up a lot of heat in the engine bay. Plus depending were in the tank it is discharged it may just keep going around and get hotter especially when the tank is getting low! I fitted my pump into the tank from the top n/s ( I did not fancy a pump one on the outside and it keeps the pump cool)and used the standard Spitfire feed pipe as the return and that also points towards the N/S I fitted a high pressure filter at the bottom of the tank behind the covering board I fitted a Range Rover type with screw fixings as I could make a plate to braze onto the tank top plus I thought if the gasket leaks/weeps it will only smell(the better option!) The only downside I would have to remove the tank to change it!!! (but I bought a genuine NOS Land Rover one not a chinses copy) more money but safer. Roger

Hello Peter The bottom one is a normal oil cooler but the top one is a fuel cooler! I fitted this because Spitty runs Microsquirt and ITB's so the fuel is always circulating and tends to get hot when the tank is low and we are touring Spain in 25/30degs I think it is off a BMW or Merc but was cheap and well made. Whether it makes a lot of difference is hard to tell but I like tinkering! but it would do no harm as warm fuel is not what you want (I am told!) Roger

Hello All This is how I did Spitty and the sensor is in the bottom of the radiator and is has 2 temperature settings all driven through relays The high temperature fan only comes on when messing in the garage or once in a blue moon in Spain! Roger

Hello Pete anyone ever increased the length of the slot in the rear cam journal to increase to more flow without flooding the top end ???? pete Now that sounds like a much better option but how much to increase the slot? Or how about a much longer slot and needle valve restrictor on the cylinder head? Roger

Hello Richard I have one like that and it seems ok but as Roger says surface alters readings but was good enough to set up the temperature sensors for my EFI Roger

Hello Pete Do you have to tighten this nut up tight like on a Spitfire? so would fiberglass etc be strong enough in compression? Roger

Hello Pete Next, I need to find someone with a lathe ..to make a replacement of the fan extension piece for me, in some material lighter than forged steel ! That would be a lot of machining from a lump of Aluminium! Roger ps not sure the weight saving would be worth the effort if you have to pay for the work!

No Roger ps 3.63 - 1

Hello Paul My Motor is 1/2hp and will turn the gearbox at 1400 Here you go for pressures I could lend you a gauge and adapter if you like? A new "J" Type Overdrive Unit is currently being incorporated on the Triumph range of vehicles; consequently, the "A" and "D" Types will be discontinued. Incorporation of the "J" Type Unit was effective commencing with the following vehicle identification numbers: Model Vehicle Ident. # Color Number Part # Working Pressure Stag LE 20857 Yellow 115837 312377 510-540 TR-6 CF 1 Blue 115838 313242 430-460 Spitfire * Lilac 115840 313305 320-350 GT-6 * Lt. Green 115850 313304 350-380 * - Estimated incorporation -- Late February, 1973 Hydraulic Pressure Test When running in direct drive, a residual pressure of 20 lbs. per square inch maintains the overdrive unit in a primed condition and provides lubrication. When overdrive is selected, the hydraulic pressure is increased to within the figures quoted above, To check the operating pressures: 1. Check that the gearbox oil level is correct. 2. Remove the hexagon headed plug adjacent to the solenoid and fit hydraulic pressure gauge L188A together with the adaptor L188A-2. 3. Jack up the rear wheels and run the transmission at approximately 25 m.p.h. Note 1. When in direct drive the residual pressure reading should be approximately 20 lb./in. Note 2. When the overdrive is engaged, the pressure should be as specified. Interchageability Of Parts "J" Type Overdrive parts are not interchangeable with those for "A" or "D" Type Units. Roger ps I set my pressure at 350/380 psi

Hello Paul No we are not doing Classic Le Mans this year (we have been 4 times!) I went to Spa 6hours in September (been to the Classic 4times)and has spoilt me as the racing is so much better and there is no silly parades between races(waste of time!) Plus the tickets were only £30(group discount £40 without) for the weekend and free classic parking and you can go anywhere around the circuit any stand and the pits. I have been looking at going to Zandvoort or the old timers Germany We are off to Spain in June for 2 weeks Roger ps Derek has gone over to the Dark side and bought a Volvo Amazon! TR6 has gone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hello All I thought the point of HS2 was so people who live in the London now can buy cheaper houses in the West Midlands and commute to London were they get paid a lot more! Of course I could be wrong? Roger

Yes Roger ps this how I tested mine and to check pressures

Hello All As I said nos if you can but if not a known make in the hope they are better quality and there is come back on the supplier (Trading Standards) Roger

Hello Mark It has been fully rebuilt by the man who makes TR chassis it was up for sale and TR Register were trying to get Gaydon to buy it so it stays in the UK Roger

Hello All With bearings I always try and buy NOS off Fleabay etc(and wash out and replace the old grease!) or buy from a proper bearing supplier especially if it is fitted in the bowels of the car! But for the lawn mower or lightly used things cheap and cheerful will do probably! Roger

Hello Sam How about these people? They list 5/16" x 1 1/4" which you could shorten Roger https://www.arunfasteners.co.uk/stock-range/screws/machine-screws/unf-machine-screws/unf-pan-slotted-machine-screws/

Hello Sam Just had a look in my old nut and bolt drawer and can only find 2 3/8" ones and they are slightly different heads! Sorry Roger