KevinR

No it didn't. On the MKIV, the key changed to a bigger key, but it was still single sided, same on the MK3 GT6. This bigger key remained with the early 1500 Spits, and only changed to a double sided key when the steering column was changed to the TR7 style column with the ignition lock up close to the steering wheel rather than deep down between ones knees. I believe, that when the 1500 went for the TR7 style column, that the double sided ignition key was the same as the door key, but as all the ones I've encountered have had different keys (cut from the same blank) I cant confirm it.

"Normal" lead acid batteries and Calcium batteries are both fairly similar. In a standard lead acid battery there is a small amount of antinomy alloyed into the lead plates, where as in the Calcium battery, there is a small amount of Calcium alloyed into the lead plates. A Calcium battery is usually lower maintenance than a traditional lead acid battery, suffers lower sulphating rates and a lower self discharge rate. On a car that is infrequently used, a Calcium battery has its advantages, especially if a battery conditioner is not being used. On the down side, a Calcium battery requires a slightly higher charge voltage, so your generator/alternator will need to be in tip top condition.

The best I can get out of Invision is that they "officially" support the "last two major releases" of browsers. And "we don't go out of our way to break things in older browsers either, but if a bug is only present in a particular old browser at this point in time the solution is clear - upgrade your browser" Which is not particularly helpful. If one is using an old (unsupported) operating system that particular browser suppliers have dropped support for their browser, then there are two solutions : 1. Upgrade the operating system to one that can handle a more modern and better supported browser 2. Change to a browser that is better supported on that old operating system - for example K-Meleon, http://kmeleonbrowser.org/download.php which is kept up to date and suitable for computers that are still running XP.

Andy Cook's car is a rather odd shade of Saffron - its more a cross between Saffron and Mimosa - It's a lot yellower than an original Triumph Saffron paint job.

Amsoil did some research and testing of GL5 oils back in 2007 (ok, that's a few years ago, but not that long ago) and found several oils that corroded yellow metals. http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf It wasn't a study of every GL5 oil on the market, and focussed on those available in the USA rather than the UK, but personally I would want to see the results of the same set of tests performed on any GL5 oil that someone was trying to persuade me to put in my Triumph gearbox or differential.

Doug, I think the colour is a bit closer to Saffron than Mimosa - unless its been exposed to too much of the one of the problem GL5 compositions, in which case it could be black.

Iain, If you want to use GL5 oil, then that is your prerogative, and your risk. Many others, myself included, will stick with GL4 oil as its readily available, similarly priced, and has a long track history of being suitable for our cars.

Did you also fail to spot that it was revised in June 2020 to contain up to date information.

The last time I checked, brass is a yellow metal, unless you can prove otherwise, and yes, the article talks extensively about the damage mechanism to brass synchronisers by the use of GL5 spec oils in a gearbox.

https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf makes an interesting read, and its been kept up to date. I'm sticking with GL4.

GL4 and GL5 are specifications, its quite possible to formulate an oil that meets both specifications. The problems are that when the GL5 specification was released, the "design solution" from most oil manufacturers to create an oil that met GL5 was to include a lot of sulphur compounds, and under the right conditions these react with yellow metals and corrode them. It is quite easy (but more expensive) to formulate a oil that meets GL5 without including the sulphur compounds - and because it is more expensive, many manufacturers dont want to spend the money making an expensive product that people are less likely to buy because there are cheaper alternatives available.

So are you saying that all GL5 oils currently on the market are yellow metal safe for use in a differential, if so, I'm sure that people on here would like to see the proof. Certainly, there are a lot of GL5 spec oils that have been formulated to be yellow metal safe, but I cannot believe that ALL of them are now yellow metal safe, especially when used in a differential. It's normally only in a differential that the conditions needed to get GL5 oils (that are not yellow metal safe) into a state where they corrode yellow metals are achieved. Even a non-yellow metal safe GL5 oil will normally work in a gearbox without causing damaging levels of yellow metal corrosion.

Theme "TSSC (Default)" and "TSSC2" give a display (on a laptop) that uses 3/4 of the screen width as the main body, and 1/4 of the screen width for the list / filter for the individual sections. Theme "TSSC3" uses 100% of the screen width for the main body and doesn't display the list/filter of the individual sections.

NOTHING has changed, and you dont need to be a member of the TSSC to use the forum

Iain, How about the posting immediately before the my posting that you have just quoted.

If you are worried about the posting being deleted you are obviously concerned that you have not been accurate in what you have posted. We all know you have certain opinions concerning oil - not everyone shares those opinions, and they reserve the right to disagree with you. Take care, Kevin

Johny, It looks like you are correct. The standard filter for a small Triumph engine is the GFE150 or GFE119 and they both have a 5/8"-18 TPI thread. Oil filters are a frequent topic of discussion

The WIX 24037 adaptor is used to convert from 5/8"-18TPI to 3/4"-16TPI I believe that the standard thread on a Triumph Herald/Spitfire engine is 3/4"-16TPI. There is a much better range of higher quality filters available with a 5/8"-18TPI thread, so a lot of people use the WIX 24037 adaptor on their Herald/Spitfire engine so they can use better filters.

There are NOS bodyshells for other Triumphs out there, you just need to know where to look

Last post removed, keep things civil and polite otherwise I’ll be forced to act more severely.

Yep, that's correct, the bracket is held in place by one of the nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the manifold flange. It's extremely rare to find the parts still fitted to a 50 year old car, they normally went missing the first time the exhaust was replaced.

For the Spitfire and Herald, you can use a 7/16" 8 point (or double square) socket in a 1/2" or 3/8" breaker bar - works every time. For example a Snap-on SW414 in 1/2" drive or an F314 in 3/8" drive. On the GT6 and Vitesse, there is very little clearance between the chassis and the drain plug head, so a spanner (preferably a square) is "always" required.

Custom length pushrods are readily available in the USA, and there are companies that import them. Any performance engine builder should know where to get them from in the UK. Have a look at https://mantonpushrods.com/ to see what can be produced.

You should be able to correct the rocker geometry with a set of Pedestal shims, such as these https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-144973SHIM