daverclasper

Thanks All sorted now courtesy of "Moss" just down the road, with a new switch.(complete with note from Moss saying manufacturers had wired it wrong and how to wire it in).

Thanks Doug The ebay is light switch. Is the same advice for indicator switch regarding heat/non fussed do you know please. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks This is smoking in all 3 positions. Seems to be coming from the circular copper contact that are behind where the wires come into switch. I guess it's shorting, so a replacement switch needed?. Anyone know if re-manufactured ones cause any problems, or if to go for secondhand?. Also is this not fused a didn't blow any. Any advice great please Thanks Dave

Hi, and great resto thread, thanks Karl Interesting this body stuff There's a good Vitesse body resto article of a maybe typical small chassis Triumph, online, written by, I think, Willow Triumph. Took ages apparently, partly due to previous work and poor fitting replacement panels "shortening/extending panels hours of fiddling, there's no rules on this sort of job". So, unless starting from a scratch rebuild and spending many, many hours, I guess it's a case of accepting some poor panel fit. In some "buying a small chassis Triumph" articles, it suggests, "some time" to sort this out. Not sure if this is the norm, more a Rubic Cube with some/lot's of fabrication involved? . Dave

Hi thanks Richard. Have saved the Lucas info, as prefer the old stuff and found it reliable if looked after. My car is a mostly daily driver, so trying to avoid lengthy repair times, therefore trying to accumulate some spares that I can test/fix up a bit bit maybe and then fit if need be to keep the car going. Saying that, I don't even know what can suddenly go wrong with a dizzy (advance springs breaking maybe etc? any one know please) Cheers Dave

Hi folks I think there is a different part no for this and the Mk 2's. I'm looking to buy a spare one for my Mk1 2Litre and would need a correct one without much fettling. Anyone know the differences please. Thanks, Dave

Hi I would refurb the olds if pos. The only bit of the bodies that can wear is the throttle spindle orifices I understand. (you can get them rebushed, but specialist job). If you have play in spindles, then often it is the spindles that wear most. A check is to remove the butterflies and slide the spindles along until the unworn section is in the orifices. If only a small amount of play then ok. I had my breather tube running into air box and it used to oil up the filters after a while. Have since fitted an original PCV valve running into inlet manifold. This also appears to have made my carbs much easier to set up for mixture throughout the rev range! and no oil leaks from Rocker Cover/Filler Cap, now there is some vacuum in there. Dave

Make sure there are no sharp burrs on the metal ends of fuel line to carve the slivers. I also put a bit of vaseline around the ends of the metal fuel lines to help and get the rubber hoses aligned as much as pos and gently fit them. Also could be sticking needle valves or there not seating properly. I had a flooding problem with worn or very gummed up needles not seating on both carbs, thought they might have been gummed up as car not used much when I bought it and soaked them in cellulose thinners and then flushed them through, still no good. Bought new ones in the end and this cured it. Wished I had just replaced in the first place to save the hassle. Floats heights set wildy out though these wouldn't alter if it's been ok before. Float/s punctured. Also had a flooding/very bad running problem after fitting an air filter upside down, so blanking off the cut out for air intake at top of carb body intake, though it would run ok for a few miles. Can you see if it's flooding from both carbs. If you take the air filter box off you can some times see fuel sitting above the jets and or fuel coming from the breather channel that is an oval shaped orifice around the top, right hand side of carb front face (from memory). This is for Strombergs, though others have some of the same. Dave

I had all my keys cut (including Waso petrol cap key and bonnet locks) as a spare set at a good old fashioned lock smith sort of shop. He had all right blanks. Dave

Or the free oddments/damaged stuff they put out at ours.

Hi What size tap to fit the standard plug please Marcus. Cheers, Dave

Hi I'm assuming there wasn't a noise coming from exhaust manifold to indicate the leak?. Any other tests to see if leaking please. My gearbox cover doesn't seal too well, so slightly concerned. Thanks, Dave

Hi One method I've used a few times with success, is to use the screw/jaw type ones (pictured above) and when joint under tension strike the side (hole/arm) with a hammer. Dave

Hi I have quite a few general car repair books mainly from the 70's and they are mainly good with some "thinking out of the box" suggestions for difficulties encountered. I wish there was a general "Tips and Tricks" book to supplement general mechanic stuff. Anyone heard of anything like this?, please Cheers, Dave

Hi Just to let you know there are Herald engine valences on E Bay at the mo. £10.00 starting price (6 days left), though maybe you want to leave yours as is, or repair. Dave

Thanks Pete Seemed to have a long term issue with getting a correct mixture throughout the range. My rocker cover breather was venting to atmosphere. Have now fitted an original PCV. Mixture seems a lot better now. At least have a grey plugs colour at cruising, before it was white, if I set ok mixture at idle (though just one plug is quite a bit paler?). Could the valve have made a difference in breathing do you think?. Cheers, Dave

Hi My understanding, is that when carbs are balanced for air intake (throttle buterflies), this is for idle and makes little difference at higher revs. Is this also the case with mixture settings please (whether single or twin carb). Any advice great thanks Cheers, Dave

Hi Noticed when fitting new brake wheel cylinders that the handbrake levers that go through back plate and pins within them that locate in the grooves in the wheel cylinders are different, in that one is fixed to lever (maybe by rust) and some scoring indent's on corresponding area of back plate. Other side, the pin is free moving which I thought was correct, to allow for movement of cylinder when brakes applied. Any advice great please. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete Was just allowing a couple of hours not to rush, as with older age I tend to do do silly/forgetful things, more so if rushing!. Dave

Thanks Pete Will have a look when car not in use and a have few hours time. Cheers, Dave

Hi Sorry if Interrupting the thread a bit here. Pete, what are the top boss sealing washers and what happens if there no good?, also if the small jet O rings are Knacked, does this mean it can run rich? please, (assumed it would mean fuel would leak from bottom of jet holders). Asking, as I think got a possible long term issue with setting mixture ok for both city driving and cruising. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. Will not do then. On the subject of brake hoses. Can they collapse internally and create a bit of a spongy pedal please. Still have this issue, after replacing rear wheel cylinders that seemed a bit weepy. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks It's to try and isolate where there may be air in system. Cheers, Dave

Hi Normal power and little oil consumption is not I think related to oil pressure, though suggests the top end is ok. Don't know what car you have, but for the 2Litre 6's, the book says between 40-60 lb's at 2000 revs, the higher end better I guess. I think 25 lbs at idle is considered ok. Clatter on start up before oil reaches pressure, can suggest some bottom end wear, though some say this is not much to worry about if your running oil pressure is ok. I would be leaving it for now if oil pressure good. One thing to look out for is movement at the crank pulley, due to worn thrust washers when pushing in the clutch. If this is excessive, they can fall out and damage the crank and block. I'm sure others will be here with more/alternative info. Cheers, Dave

Hi Some car maintenance books say you can do this, other opinions, are that it will damage them?. Also, if ok to do this, would a G clamp and 2 shortish, round bars (say 5mm dia) running along the length of hose, between the clamping areas of G clamp and hose, be an ok DIY tool method?. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave