trigolf

That's very interesting that Roots used Velcro as standard. I've often thought of trying that myself, as the hood design is a bit crap, although not as bad as Spits and TR's, which just funnels all the rain down the inside of the windows. I've never understood the 'logic' of that...

It's a paler colour than copper and you can get it in roll form.

Rather than copper, you could use Kunifer ( Cupro Nickel) pipe, which does'nt suffer from work hardening like copper.

Afternoon all. Just a quick line to report back, as requested. I emailed Alasdair(boss man) and described the intermittent 'twitch' symptom and large amount of free play in both inner and outer joints. Although I bought them from Rimmers in 2018, he did not even quibble and said they would repair or replace at no charge. He was surprised how much play there was in both joints. Today I have recieved a replacement shaft with no discernable play in either joint. Even though I had the problem, I was impressed at his attitude and response to the issue - a refreshing change in todays world!

Lots of classic Ferraris have vertical oil filters...

Just a thought..what symptom would a cracked cylinder head between an inlet and exhaust valve cause?

I've often wondered if the OD on my Vit was dealer fitted after initial purchase, even though the BL Heritage build sheet specifies OD on the options. I'm the second owner. Looking at the state of the prop tunnel, it looked like some mongrel had attacked it with a hacksaw and bent two or three ' strips' of floor back to access the prop flange, then bent them back again after. There was no proper cover plate fitted, but I've since tidied it up and made a plate. As to the special order question, I think Josef could be right - anything possible, IF you paid. Vitesse estates never officially existed did they, but we know Park Royal built a few.

I see Easyjet's latest ad features a LHD Spitfire - with American? plates.

Coincedently, the discovery of excessive play in the lobro came about during wheel bearing replacement. I initially wondered if I had set the endfloat too tight, as during test drives the rear of the car would ' twitch' momentarily from time to time, which felt like it was coming from the same side (RH). I could find nothing wrong with the bearings after pulling the hub off, or the brakes, which was confusing. I think I was experiencing what TR drivers had suffered - the Triumph Twitch?, when the sliding splines lock up. If not the same mechanical cause, the symptom seems the same. When I get home, I'll pull the shaft out and speak to Alisdair.

Thanks Iani, that's exactly the same problem as I have. I have to say I'm not very impressed when my driveshafts have done less than 3k since fitting and they were'nt exactly cheap! I would expect CV's to last 90k+. I will be speaking to CDD!

Iani, when you say noisy, what do you mean exactly?

One word... 'terrifying'! It's up there with the Cuban brake fluid made out of hair shampoo and sugar...🫣

Afternoon all.I have just completed a rotoflex rear wheel bearing replacement. During final checks that all ok, before replacing the wheel, I happened to notice that there is a noticeable 'clonk' when you grip the inner 'Lobro'? joint and rotate the drive shaft. It's definitely in the Lobro coupling and not the diff inner axle or the outer CV joint. There is also no detectable play in the wheel bearing, so it's not that. When I compare the 'play' with the other side there is a noticeable difference in free play and associated 'clonk'. I'm not familiar with Lobro or CV joints. Should there be any detectable play? I don't want to take the whole bloody thing to bits again, unless necessary!

Be very careful if you try blanking off the pipe connections. Many years ago I tried this using a couple of plumbing end caps. It resulted in no oil pressure. I swapped it for a same make ( Mocal) spin on filter but without oil cooler and immediately got oil pressure again. I think the oilways through the adaptor are routed differently.

That's what I understand too. I changed all hoses to Gates last year and the carbs don't flood in normal use and I have'nt touched any of the connections since.🤔

Last week I started work to replace a rear wheel bearing on my mk 2 Vit. So, rear end up on stands and springlifter in use etc. Recommenced work today and on entering garage a very strong smell of petrol! I checked the carb throats and fuel welling out of them which has polluted the very new front air filter Grr..! The fuel tank is almost full as I'd recently refilled it before deciding to change the rear wheel bearing. I have temporarily stopped the 'leak' by clamping the tank outlet hose( the boot is currently higher than the carbs). Am I missing something, as I would assume the carb needle valves would stop fuel flow, or is it gravity just overwhelming them?

Speaking to Bailey Morris recently, Andy, their Tech and Support Engineer said that sealed joints have a stronger cross pin as they are not hollow for greasing.

I used to have John Cleese's voice on mine - " bear right, beaver left" used to make me chuckle...

Morning all. I need to replace the rear wheel bearings on one side. As I rarely manage 2k miles a year, is it worth paying the extra dosh for Timken bearings, or just fit pattern type at half the cost. Any bearing makes to specifically avoid - i.e. korean or chinese?

Although it's West London, one of our Wessex area members got his Vitesse box rebuilt by Heathrow Transmissions recently. It was'nt cheap and I daresay you might find cheaper, but he reckons it's the best it's ever been, having had several rebuilds over the years!

I have Classic Driving Developments CV shafts, purchased from Rimmers. They are very nicely engineered. You still have to set up the hub bearing endfloat as it still uses a spacer and shims exactly as per original. However, you eliminate the troublesome/expensive rotoflex doughnut. So the only remaining tension in the rear suspension is the transverse spring. You can also convert to telescopic shocks without add on brackets, as you use the original top mounting point for the damper, which is still present on the chassis, al la Vit Mk 1. I have done this also. The conversion brackets were only necessary to clear the donut. It's not needed for CV shaft fit.

Yes, Dot 3,4 is hygroscopic - i.e it absorbs moisture. I've never had a siezed cylinder since swapping to silicon.

Jeez, is that from a submarine....😜

Hi all, Just perusing the June Courier and Darren's Herald 1360 article includes a pic of spark plug colours. No implied critisism, but I think the plug labelled ' Optimal' is in fact 'Lean' and one labelled ' Lean' is in fact ' Optimal' ?

Did it stay flexible longterm? Looking at cars that had been treated, I always felt that it was like underseal gone hard?