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Lora, the '67 Spitfire


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Carb tinkering today. Warmed her up and then adjusted the screws a smidgen and now she ticks over at 800rpm. Perfect.

Then I decided to strip the paint off the sir filter so I can paint it the correct silver and gave the bolts a polish. Filters look like new.  But it's a bit too far gone for paint so it's either a powder coat or K&Ns. Which I want anyway lol.

Talking of powder coat the frame is now being done and should be ready next week!

Alex

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K&Ns? It might be fair to say that opinions vary about the merits (and cost) of these.

May I mention a cheap wheeze for rescuing pitted parts such as these? Derust, then rustproofing primer. Then srapy pitted area generously with stonechip. When rock solid dry can be sanded flat. Nothing clever about this really - just using stonechip as though it were a super tough high build primer.  

 

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Are those filters that tricky to set up? I had some on a MK4 with no changes made and the car performed exactly as before, just with a better induction note. Maybe pod filters might be an idea. I've had many a 4 stroke bike with cone filters and pods, no jetting needed. But you do have way more experience with these cars than I do!

As for the paint, getting the air filter powder coated would cost maybe £25. The frame is only costing £80, so with the price of the paint and the time involved a bit of powder might be the answer!

Thanks Pete for your advice. I have never heard of that paint before so worth remembering.

Alex

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Alex   any change of air filter that supposedly improves air flow will reduce the induction vacuum across the needle jet 

this loss   sucks out less fuel and you end up with a weak mixture  

theres some clues about needle specs and filter/exhaust changes in the triumph tune /moss  catalogue 

once you move into Must Have parts you can open a can of worms , triumph tested and recorded data for thousands of testiing miles and dyno work to make the car do what it should , we all like to tinker but we cant do the research work on a DIY basis without some headaches 

pancakes also make more induction noise so the feeling is its faster , in reality and a stop watch its probably  slower ..just noisier

have fun  fit what ever you fancy 

Pete

 

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It's odd isn't it? Might explain my heavy steering...or not. I have no idea really. Been looking around and these look good, but I'll still need coils. Might just replace the coils and see what happens first.

Alex

 

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A bit more fettling. Following Josef's design I now have a vinyl covered backing section for the boot. The radiator expansion bottle is way past it's sell by date so I ordered one of those from Paddocks along with a washer bottle and a new coil for the suspension...but I'm now wondering if the damper isn't bent. We shall see.

I was going to change the fuel filter too but is this one too small? It's about 1/2 the size of the old one.

Alex

 

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Thought I'd tackle the coolant again, and this time drain the block too. I had to wade through 12 pages here before someone mentioned the bolt on the engine also has a 'tap'. I had seen this but it was too stiff to move by hand. Liberal doses of WD40 yesterday seems to have worked, I had to use a grease gun rod to act as a slightly larger lever but LO! The tap opened and clear water/coolant came out, and quite rapidly too so the water ways aren't gummed up with any debris. I let the water drain then refilled 3 or 4 times to be on the safe side, did the tap up and the one on the rad and refilled. Job's a good 'un!

Alex

 

 

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Last week I had a call from Don's Hoods and he asked if I'd prefer a soft top with a zip up window in it, if so I could get it this week. I said yes and it arrived today with no extra costs so I am very happy. I think I can fir this myself but according to the instructions I need a rubber moulding retaining channel. Is this the case? If so I can order one, and I might just use Rimmers...they emailed me with a 50% off code for anything purchased over £250...and there are a few bits I want to get so now may well be the right time!

Alex

ps is that chalk line meant to be where the hood folds over the front of the frame?

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This is not the site that I was thinking of, but it's pretty much the way that I do it....but with a right hand drive!!

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=881688155208238&id=100001011850470&_rdr

There is also this one but not filmed as close...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iMoiyVabWNk

there will be others who may do it differently. The important thing is not to crease the windows in any way or stress the zip to much

 

 

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I'm not on Farcebook! The YT vid was good though, showing where I had been going wrong all those years ago lol. Still need to find something about actually fitting the soft top to the frame. The search continues!

Alex

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Alex - I'm sure that between us all we can guide you through it. I fitted mine on my own just using the instructions that came with the hood but that was in the 80s and the memory has faded. I did find some written instructions from Prestige hoods if they might be any help. The main thing to remember is mark (use marking tape on the hood and mark on that) and measure. Measure again and make sure things line up before you make any holes. Assume nothing..like I didn't. My main mistakes were assuming that the poppers on the body were symetrical, they aren't. I didn't center the top windscreen retaining bar properly so it's slightly out of alignment. Others will advise, I'm sure.

Prestige link....

https://prestigeautotrim.com/uk/triumph-spitfire-carhoods-1971-1980-original.html

Go right down to the bottom for pdf link.

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