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Still have a misfire :-(


1969Mk3Spitfire

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I (think) that I've solved my sooty plug issue, choke lever, and I've blown-through and cleaned the fuel system from pump to pipes to float chambers and jets. I still have the misfire symptoms. Could all of my recent grief been a red herring 😭

Cars runs really well for about 5 miles.  Water temp gauge reading normal but by now engine is hot. It seems to miss under all driving conditions including low load steady state and mild acceleration.

The only two ignition components that I haven't changed are condenser (I bought an Intermotor but it did not fit the Delco distributor due to a poorly made bracket) and coil.

Could either of these gives rises to hot engine, not cold, misfire? Anything else to investigate?

Any recommendations for a decent condenser and a 12v, non-ballast coil?

Many thanks.

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PeteL will give you chapter and verse on dodgy condensers, just wait!!! As for coils, not my thing I'm afraid. I have a box of two or three spares from scrappies for years gone by. I just swop if needs be, so no help there, sorry. Glad that you appear to have sorted sooty out.

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Wouldn’t bother with fuel on this one. So you have changed the plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap?  Then points, condenser, coil. Are the points fouled? Dwell set correctly?  Advance at 6deg BTDC. 
when you say misfire - what are you hearing exactly?

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12 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

PeteL will give you chapter and verse on dodgy condensers, just wait!!! As for coils, not my thing I'm afraid. I have a box of two or three spares from scrappies for years gone by. I just swop if needs be, so no help there, sorry. Glad that you appear to have sorted sooty out.

So, who makes decent condensers? 

 

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9 minutes ago, Andy Moss said:

Wouldn’t bother with fuel on this one. So you have changed the plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap?  Then points, condenser, coil. Are the points fouled? Dwell set correctly?  Advance at 6deg BTDC. 
when you say misfire - what are you hearing exactly?

Yes, Andy, plugs, points, HT leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap. All from club shop. Not checked points condition in a while so I’ll check and post finding, probably tomorrow. I have a Draper Dwell meter and the engine is within 1 degree of nominal spec. Never checked timing but the car runs extremely well until it’s covered 5 miles 😩

Whether on country lanes or around town, it drives really well for around 5-10 miles. First symptom tends to a single miss with almost instant recovery. It seems most pronounced at light load, steady state, say 40 mph on a flat road. When accelerating, either from standing start or transient, it will miss frequently, almost kangaroo hopping. Accelerating harder, the car pulls but will misfire. 

The plugs are less than 500 miles old but they have been removed and refitted to different cylinders a million times so it is probably sensible to fit new again, I use NGK BE5S.

Appreciate your comments. 

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8 minutes ago, NonMember said:

Could be a weak coil, points, condenser, or plugs, especially if the plugs are NGK and have been in there since before you sorted the fouling issue.

Thanks, I’m planning to replace the plugs and the condenser. Any recommendations for make/type of coil?

Many seem to offer a standard coil and a “high performance” version. What does HP mean in this context and might it be of help?

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3 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

@Badwolf I’ve had this problem before with this forum. I have the start of your last comment as an email message but can’t see the post within this thread 🤷‍♂️

My fault. Sent a post through and realised that it was for the wrong thread so deleted it. Unfortunately you got an email notification to say that you had a new post even through I has made a mess. Apologies.

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A faulty condenser will certainly cause a misfire under load and I had this issue on my GT6 (Delco) many years ago. Luckily I was carrying a spare and a simple swop sorted it out.

The quality of aftermarket condensers can be iffy so try and source from a reputable dealer of substitute one from another  car that is known to be OK.

Ian

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i had a local spitty  that would run like a complete bag of sh1te  you could twiddle all morning it would run fine after for 5 miles and turn into a nightmare it eventually demised to no further that its drive 

fitted a dizzy doc condenser and shes been fine ever since but for all my magic fingers didnt point to condenser for a good while too long 

HD on a coil is often  just the label  .......... any 3 ohm coil is ok  like DLB101   or a supposed sports version DLB105  both are 3 ohm non ballast coils 

Pete

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After first discharging a capacitor/condenser I find when I put a meter on it the resistance shows as low to start and then climbs to a high value as it charges up. Then with the meter on volts you might even be able to get a reading as it retains the charge - you could even charge it up on the car battery and check its stored some volts.

Of course this isnt a guarantee the unit will be good in service but its sure that if you see a continual low or high resistance it has a problem....

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I think, that if you use a Multimeter, on the Ohm`s range, It should rise reasonably slowly to a peak reading. if nothing happens or the rise is instant, assume the Condenser to be defective?. It`s a LOT of years since I tested one, but I think that is correct?. They are (or used to be) cheap as chips, and I tended to replace any time I replaced the points.

Pete

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4 minutes ago, johny said:

After first discharging a capacitor/condenser I find when I put a meter on it the resistance shows as low to start

4 minutes ago, PeteH said:

I think, that if you use a Multimeter, on the Ohm`s range, It should rise reasonably slowly to a peak reading

While this is a good way to test a fairly hefty (e.g. electrolytic) capacitor, the definition of "slowly" for an ignition condenser is probably too fast to notice. The multimeter may only be putting a tiny fraction of the ignition current into it, but it's only aiming for a volt or two, while in operation the condenser needs to swing from 0V to 300V in a fraction of a millisecond, or you don't get a spark.

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7 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: 

fitted a dizzy doc condenser and shes been fine ever since but for all my magic fingers didnt point to condenser for a good while too long 

Pete

Dear magic fingers, I’ve ordered one and if it doesn’t solve the problem I’ll be sending the boys round for a chat 😁

(thanks for your help, notwithstanding)

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The condenser spec is 0.18 to 0.24 microfarads. I have an LRC meter and have measured mine at 0.21, so within spec. Sadly, I don’t think that a static measurement like this is sufficient to assess dynamic, load and heat affect.

I know there are advocates (sensible people) of assessing the effect of a single change but I’m planning to simultaneously change condenser, plugs and coil. No real reason to doubt any of these but I’m otherwise running out of ideas.

Beating the car with the branch of a tree as per John Cleese is next on my list.

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25 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

I know there are advocates (sensible people) of assessing the effect of a single change but I’m planning to simultaneously change condenser, plugs and coil. No real reason to doubt any of these but I’m otherwise running out of ideas.

Maybe worth taking the spares out and when car is hot changing one at a time at the roadside, if you can be bothered?. You should then have spares for the future that you know should be working 

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Update.

As per advice within this thread I have today replaced condenser, coil and new plugs (again). Just been for a 15 mile drive in a mixture of 30, 40, 50 and 60 limits on a hot ambient day.

For the first time in months the car did not misfire!

Fingers crossed that both my sooty plug and misfire issues are now resolved. Huge thanks to all for help and advice along the way.

Odometer turned to 55,000 during the drive.

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