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13/60 randomly turning off or kicking back, high temps


Quack

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Hang on a minute, I just did what you said too.. disconnected the pipe from carb but this time had no funnel attached…and the car is running and not stalling??? So having the pipe plugged in to the carb is causing the issue…?

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Just tried the funnel for much longer and it worked perfectly, can confirm. This time there was no spluttering at all from other pipe so yeah looks like pump is the issue. Previous check with no pipe attached was probably just from fuel left in carb

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Thinking back to earlier post on Fuel Pumps, there is an aparent issue with non O/E replacements. Worth a search of the subject?. You may find it a better "bet" to look into a refurb of the existing one?. Kits are available online and alleged to be Ethenol friendly.

Pete

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Just another thought actually although I don’t really know what I’m talking about here but, is it possible that the part inside the engine block that actually pushes the lever of the pump up and down is broken somehow? Or is that not how it works!

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No but I think it's possible for the finger to be at the top of the cam instead of the bottom or is it vica versa which stops actuation. Take the pump off and inspect? 

I think the actuating arm should be on the top of the camshaft, if it is installed to the bottom it won't work. 

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Not fully, I took the top part off to clean out that debris yesterday but I didn’t remove the entire thing from the engine block.

it would be in my best interest to repair it as I won’t order one in time for Thursday, on which I’m meant to be roadtripping to Cornwall!

 

it’s unlikely that that is the case though as it’s worked fine until recently, but worth having a look regardless.

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i would think the rust crap has mullered the pump valves   as pump has not been removed the lever position is not a likely problem 

its operated by a Lobe on the camshaft  they dont fail the cam lobe lifts the pump lever which pulls the diaphragme down  the spring inside the pump returns the diaphragm and 

creates the pressure , repro pumps are known to have too strong  a spring and they over pressure the float needles 

a max of 2.5 psi in about right     some have been found to give 6psi ....hopeless

Pete

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Yes, I got a pump from ☆immers and it ran at 7 psi. Lost 1/2 gallon before I realised! I complained and they sent me another. Exactly the same.

I cleaned and reused the original !

The actual problem was air leaking in from the pick up pipe!

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2 hours ago, Quack said:

I was thinking about just buying the exact same model but as has been mentioned before I doubt it’s genuine and more likely some Chinese rip off

I believe I have an original 13/60 pump going spare. It works but not well enough to power a 2L Vitesse, so probably would benefit from a refurb but may well be serviceable as it comes. Only trouble is finding it.

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I obtained a used pump (Glass bowl type) from Wins International. Fitted the refurb kit, bought a pressure gauge, it runs at 2psi, Worked very well after cleaning all lines then fitting filters.

You do not want more than 2.5 psi.

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I bought one of these Sealey VSE952 Vacuum and Fuel Pump Pressure Test Gauge Set from FFX ebay site. You can also use it to check inlet vacuum and comes with some adaptors. Cost about £22, I think mine was £19 last year. Came next day! FFX are a good family business at Folkestone. 

Iain 

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2 hours ago, Quack said:

I can't seem to find a pressure gauge with such small accurate readings

You're probably using the wrong search terms, because you're only finding gauges for air compressors. When I Google "fuel pressure gauge" I get a mix of 100PSI (injection) and 1Bar (carb) gauges, the latter being what you want.

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It makes no sense, the funnel to carb trick works perfectly fine, runs smooth, but even with a new pump, new filter and all new pipes, it can’t get the fuel…where must the problem lie?

when I do the funnel trick no fuel comes out of the open hose from the pump.

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No theres no fuel in the filter.

When you install the pump I believe it is possible to get its operating under the cam instead of on top of it. You have to thread the pump into the hole in the block with the arm pointing upwards and then as you push the pump into place you can feel resistance of the arm against the cam...

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Sounds like I installed it correctly then, I hooked it under and it was pushing against me until I screwed it in to place on either side.

I just took the pipe off at the filter and tried to suck the fuel in by mouth, it seemed like there was air getting in somewhere and I couldn’t suck the fuel out

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