Josef Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 I would just buy some fuel line and a pipe cutter (for considerably less than Rimmers are charging there!) The tank to pump line was in two parts originally joined with a short bit of rubber hose, you’ll probably want a fuel filter before the pump so that means a bit of rubber hose on the other end, and so you don’t need any fittings on the bit of pipe most likely to be suspect. If any of the shorter bits in the engine bay are damaged, it’ll most likely be visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 As Josef said, just buy some pipe and a cutter. Do make sure you get 1/4" pipe, not the much more common 6mm type, because the rubber hoses don't fit the latter very well (and any olive joints you need to make won't work at all) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 For the main run of my fuel line I used 8mm copper microbore. No problems with it after 30 years but that's just put the kiss of death on it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 I wouldn't start splashing out on stuff you might not need,if you can hear stuff in the tank it,s a good bet that that is the issue. Take the sender out and have a look inside(not with a lighted match). Tanks can be blasted clean and I think new ones are available without the drain but I'm not sure if the capacity is the same on the new ones.I used tank sealer in mine and its still good after 7 years S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 Yeah I’ll have a mosey round the thank first, might just actually be the sender I can hear rattling about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 Do not play around with an empty tank. Fill it with water for 24 hrs, then drain and clean it out. I used an aqua vac with a long hose through the fuel gauge hole after I'd filled and drained using water. A freshly drained petrol tank is dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 21 hours ago, Quack said: Managed to get the tank out with some serious heave ho. Once it was out I was able to get the drain plug out as I could access it better (I jumped on a spanner attached to it!!) abyway I can hear shite rattling around inside of it, but no way to get the actual tank open as far as I can see That was not very wise. You could ave caused a spark and ignited the vapour AND that usually fractures the weld between the tube and the tank. Most of us leave the drain plug alone. New tanks do not have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 Some videos say add some detergent to the water to clean. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 22, 2022 Report Share Posted July 22, 2022 You don't suppose that a previous owner put some of those hideous snake oil, ball catalyst things (yes, I know, taking evasive action as I type) that we all hate and don't do anything, in the tank and that is what you can hear rolling about??!! Probably not, but the 'product' was mentioned on here a few weeks ago and it came to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 how’s this? I was thinking 5 metres would be enough to cover both lines. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115118389155?chn=ps&var=415190384332&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1uIN4tA36RmOldXBAEVTXYw23&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=415190384332_115118389155&targetid=1647205088800&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=9045628&poi=&campaignid=16787135197&mkgroupid=134875584363&rlsatarget=pla-1647205088800&abcId=9300846&merchantid=114896935&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1dkbsCyq3JDBBa_vbEmFVUf2&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2_OWBhDqARIsAAUNTTF38zoqfMDE2tm1iR_7QLy49peQyIlAE18a9mOVKKsRSmyGQ5MC5ZgaAiXQEALw_wcB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 24, 2022 Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 the spec sys its R6 thats way behind the norm now is R9as a Minimum Gates Barricade sold by club is R14 6 is a no no !!! 5 metres what on earth are you using all that on rubber under the car is not an approved solution you only need a 1mtr max to replace the tank and the carb floats and then some left over Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 24, 2022 Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: you only need a 1mtr max ... for two or three cars, if you're doing it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 I’m a bit confused here, what is the pipe running from the tank to the pump made of? And the pipe from the pump to the carb??? When I look up fuel lines it just gives me all rubber fuel hoses as results. Is it just basic copper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 24, 2022 Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 The original fuel pipes were all steel, with only a few short lengths of rubber to join them. So there is a 6" rubber hose from the tank pick-up to the main pipe, possibly a 2" joiner somewhere along the chassis, a 6" hose from main pipe to pump inlet stub. Then it's a solid steel pipe from the pump outlet round the front of the engine to the carb, where another 2" rubber hose joins to the carb inlet. Copper pipe is much easier to work with than steel, and doesn't rust. However, it work hardens, so cunifer is a better option. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2022 Perfect thankyou I’ll have a look for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 as BW says cheapest is buy some 6 or 8mm micro bore tubing from BQ or any C heating outlet the short hose out the top of the tank is a prime place to degrade and be a loose fit this sucks air stops the fuel supply its a common place hidden up in the boot and gets ignored the reserve is just a currved tub that rotates a little to lower the suction tube closer to the bottom of the tank its simple , there is no seperate reserve tank Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 Okay great will make the checks today, if not then I’ll head in to town and grab 8mm microbore, 8mm rubber hose and some metal ties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 sorry if this keeps getting bleated about but......if there is any doubt about the hose go to club shop R14 there is a load of complete tosh on sale from factors and market place outlets more fueling problems on this forum are due to fake or make believe hose specs giving up at an early life , often worse than the 50 year old originals Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 I got some stuff from a motor factors. Turned out to be R5 (I think) and it was the wrong internal bore. That was before this forum put me right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 Best I could find in local store is R7, I’m guessing that won’t be good enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 40 minutes ago, Quack said: Best I could find in local store is R7, I’m guessing that won’t be good enough? Not necessarily. There are quite few different standards - E5 & E10, maximum pressure etc. I would have thought any reliable motor parts store would ONLY be selling hose that was at least ok for E5 & E10, plus diesel and high pressure. J30R7 is ok for E5 & E10, I believe. Check out Frost.co.uk for the various specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 club shop Gates barricade is bullet proof to all the Es sorry just trying to be clear do it once why not ???? belive the lables if you must most turn out to be rubbish .... just be careful of what you are getting or a silly job will need doing again very soon just see all the posts about rubber slivers and fuel blockages inside hoses , its not the fuel its the crap hoses on sale Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 25, 2022 Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 I would agree with that, there isn't a week that goes by without the problem coming up. Buy Gates from a proper supplier. I bought mine from the local car spares place, they supply to just about every garage in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted July 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2022 Okay I’d rather get a more long term solution so will go proper supplier pete never a reason to apologise for a good recommendation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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