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Ian Cooper

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is everyone getting soft , just crank the thing it will pick up and go as for the rattle they have been doing that for the past 50 years .............its a real problem

even if you faf around with filters you cant stop the gallery and crank emptying by gravity 

Pete

 

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Its just so embarrassing Pete when you start and it rattles so everyone turns to look at the old banger thats on its last legs! Ive tried to explain that they all do that and its normal but then got all the opinions of worn bearings and oil pumps so I now prefer my spin and then start method (after replacing the bearings and oil pump of course)😁

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On 26/07/2022 at 16:06, Ian Cooper said:

Hi folks.

I'm suffering start-up embarrassment and hoping someone out there can throw me an idea, or two.

Mk2 GT6.

My engine was rebuilt some 350 miles ago. It runs on unleaded, the ignition system is electronic, fuel pump and lines are new, tank has been cleaned and treated, carbs have been refurbished and the whole system has been rolling road tuned and from five seconds after start-up is actually 'awsome', as described by the rr tuner. It runs beautifully and sounds great but start-up is embarassing.

On turning the key she initially sounds like she wants to start and then......nah!

I've tried no choke, half choke full choke and back again and it's usually at least four or five attempts before she fires, at which point she says, come on lets do this, I was just teasing there.

Is there a foolproof method to get her started please?

Thanks

Ian

My vitesse did exactly this today. Started, fluffed then cranked forever with no start even after attempting to prime and turning it over for several five second cycles. The last time that I used it was before the heatwave. Inspection revealed just a small amount of fuel in the glass bowl pump and none showing in the filter at the top of the tank outlet. The pump does not like sucking vapour and priming achieved nothing. I had to fit my electric pump temporarily to the tank outlet and prime the whole line. All working fine after putting everything back.

As Pete says, new fuel evaporates away faster than years ago and the extreme heat made matters worse. The sooner I replace the front to back steel with copper the better. I am pretty sure that some crud still resides in it. Of course it will rust if any of it is dry.

Also agree with Pete over the rattles. My old Vitesse 6 did it every morning and was still going strong after 4 years.

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3 hours ago, johny said:

Its just so embarrassing Pete when you start and it rattles so everyone turns to look at the old banger thats on its last legs!😁

Which is why I was so pleased, when I 'unveiled' my 13/60 convertible at the In-Laws, before doing a single job on it cosmetic-wise, and they were all standing round grinning at the state of it with 'Er Indoors rolling her eyes... it started perfectly on minimal starter spins. (searches unsuccessfully for two-finger emoji)

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My Vitesse rattles abit till it starts to warm up, piston slap?, but over a thousand miles to a pint of oil and reasonable oil pressure. Bought a spin on oil adaptor years ago but never fitted, my turn over and leave for a short while technique for cold start is more to preserve the battery.

So to those who think it a problem 😀😀.

Regards

Paul

 

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I don't think the rattle is a problem, just a quirk of the cars. It only lasts a couple of seconds, less than the time it takes to put on the seat belt. I would just advise not to immediately floor the pedal when you start up, as with any engine be kind until it is warm.

After the first start of the day I don't get it again until the car has been left unused for several days.

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20 minutes ago, Chris A said:

I don't think the rattle is a problem, just a quirk of the cars. It only lasts a couple of seconds, less than the time it takes to put on the seat belt. I would just advise not to immediately floor the pedal when you start up, as with any engine be kind until it is warm.

After the first start of the day I don't get it again until the car has been left unused for several days.

Car SOS do that all the time. "Let's see if she'll start up, it hasn't started in fifty years"... turns the key and immediately revs it well up the scale while they all ooh and aah.

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My problem is really 'bleedin' obvious. The line from back to front is original. The lowest point in the fuel system. Like any 'U' bend it silts up and there was never a filter at the tank outlet until I fitted one. If allowed to dry out, it will block partially, if not fully. Therefore, I will fit a length of annealed copper about 1/4 in bore as soon as I can crawl underneath it again.

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its not piston slap  that would be there all the time  its purely the journal clearances allow the oil in the crank and gallery to drain into the sump 

the old style side mounted 6 cyl filer allows drain back to the sump as can some spin on's 

so when left for a period the oil pump has to refill all the losses and the bearings , big ends and mains give the unprotected rumble until pressure is achieved 

its done it ever since these cars wre built  but as a daily driver it doesnt occur its the lay up thats the problem

as said just dont rev it on initial start and it will last another 50 years 

the paranoia of filter drain back and pancake air filters just generate headaches    heat ache and empty wallets   

for many owners who love to dabble  . 

yes its just my views  based on all the problems "must haves"  make for us 

for the many  .......do what Triumph designed and it will take you many thousands of miles with a smile 

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Marcus (GT6) had an oil header tank solenoid controlled that opened and drained by gravity into the oil galleries when starting and isolated when when filled when the engine was running.

He explained it last year we haven’t heard from him for quite a while, always enjoyed his input!

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46 minutes ago, Wagger said:

My problem is really 'bleedin' obvious. The line from back to front is original. The lowest point in the fuel system. Like any 'U' bend it silts up and there was never a filter at the tank outlet until I fitted one. If allowed to dry out, it will block partially, if not fully. Therefore, I will fit a length of annealed copper about 1/4 in bore as soon as I can crawl underneath it again.

Cant see that, if theres that much silt coming from somewhere surely it'll do the same with the new pipe. If its stuff already in the pipe then a blow through should save having to change it....

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1 minute ago, johny said:

Cant see that, if theres that much silt coming from somewhere surely it'll do the same with the new pipe. If its stuff already in the pipe then a blow through should save having to change it....

Now that I have a filter on the tank outlet the crud won't get into the pipe. When I switch to 'Reserve' fine rust collects in the filter, so I change it every time I am stupid enough to have to use Reserve. Tesco filling station closed for maintenance so I had no choice last time out. Now carrying a can strapped in the boot.

Second filter in the engine bay remains clean.

 

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39 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

Marcus (GT6) had an oil header tank solenoid controlled that opened and drained by gravity into the oil galleries when starting

Actually I think it was a pressure vessel that filled the galleries under some pressure, thus reaching all the big ends and the camshaft.

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My first car had the SU electric pump in the boot. That kept the pipe clear by 'Force'. Maybe I'll fit a 1.4lb Huco in the boot as a backup. Once started, the siphon action continues and works until I leave the car fow more than a week.

Probably should divide this post into two versions, one in Fuel, 'tother in 'Engine'.

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5 minutes ago, Wagger said:

My first car had the SU electric pump in the boot. That kept the pipe clear by 'Force'. Maybe I'll fit a 1.4lb Huco in the boot as a backup. Once started, the siphon action continues and works until I leave the car fow more than a week.

I think you must be missing the basic problem as Ive got a rusty tank but havent had to resort to any alternatives to the original mechanical pump with a filter before it. If the inlet pipe did empty (which it doesnt even after months) then I could just refil it with the pumps manual lever👍  

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

its not piston slap  that would be there all the time  its purely the journal clearances allow the oil in the crank and gallery to drain into the sump.

Well that's one less thing to think or worry about, will have to find another one to keep the  numbers up.

Should be plenty with a classic car, global warming, cost of living etc.

Regards

A cheerful Paul.

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