rozentas Posted August 10, 2023 Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 (edited) I replaced my Spitfire 1500 wheel studs with M12 Freelander studs. I have the original steel wheels and need some wheel nuts with the correct taper to centre the wheels correctly. Grateful for any advice as to which nuts will work. Edited August 10, 2023 by rozentas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2023 Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 needs to have a 60 deg chamfer if you use a domed nut it must not get thread bound due to too long studs an open nut is easiest i would think freelander or ford most euro box will be m12 x 60 that use nuts ( not bolts ) work ok Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted August 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 (edited) Thanks, trouble is I’ve got some wheel nuts with 60 degree chamfer which work fine on alloys but they won’t fit in the steel wheels. The hole through which the stud goes in the steel wheel is smaller than the hole in the alloy wheel. Also the alloy wheel is thicker where the hole is than the steel wheel Edited August 10, 2023 by rozentas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 why not drill out a re tap your originals ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 Bought some land rover studs for my Vitesse, found the threaded portion was to short, nut bottomed out before securely holding the wheel. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 Yes? So you cut the end off the studs to make them the right length? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 If the threaded portion of the stud isn't long enough how does cutting the end of help?. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 OH! The shank was too long? Not the bolt? Gotta describe it right! OK, buy a tap. Extend the threads. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 the threads on these modern studs are rolled to keep them stronger running a die nut will not be a good idea John you need a die nut to extend the threads on a stud not a tap ?????? Ha Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 3 hours ago, JohnD said: OH! The shank was too long? Not the bolt? Gotta describe it right. Never mentioned a bolt, helps to read it correctly before commenting. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 I fitted Freelander studs and M12 Ford Escort/Fiesta nuts to my Spitfire with Standard oval hole wheels, no issues with holes being wrong size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 Have the nuts being used got a hole all the way through them, or are they closed at the top ? is there enough thread in the NUT to counter bore the tapered end so that it will seat against the wheel ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 12, 2023 Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 (edited) The perceived wisdom was that the thread should exit the hut by a minimum of 1/12 threads when tightened to correct torque. It would appear from what the OP posted that nuts with closed ends are being used? ( blind nuts)? In which case the threads are bottoming out before the nut is tight? I would suggest that measure the original nut length and then assuming the nuts being used are of sufficient length shorten the studs? Always being cognniscent of the need to ensure there is a sufficient length to retain the wheel.. If there is a need to refit the alloys the safest option would be to use through nuts which would ensure full safe bolting in both circumstances. I have seen (may even have some) blind chromed nuts which incorporate a tapered washer, I think off a Vauxhall? Pete Edited August 12, 2023 by PeteH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 12, 2023 Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 12 hours ago, 68vitesse said: Never mentioned a bolt, helps to read it correctly before commenting. Regards Paul. Paul, while they are often described as "wheel studs" they are not, because they have no thread on the hub end, but a head (like a bolt) and splines. What about Kevin's point? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted August 12, 2023 Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 By way of example, see the attached photo. One is a standard Spitfire MkIV nut and the other is from something else. Both have the start of the thread counterbored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2023 Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 well with 42 years in truck manufacture they were on the engineering drawings as Wheel Studs and thats was 8 or 10 per wheel so studs gets my vote Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 12, 2023 Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 7 hours ago, JohnD said: Paul, while they are often described as "wheel studs" they are not, because they have no thread on the hub end, but a head (like a bolt) and splines. What about Kevin's point? John While waiting for my tea looked at Canley, Rimmer's and James Paddock all refer to them as wheel studs, as to counter boring the nut, could be done but would depend on how far for safety. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 You will likely find, historically, that the first wheel "studs" where indeed threaded both ends and screw`d into the axle fitting. Hence "stud" would be the correct term, The headed Splined variety came later as manufacturers wanted to save time, material and cut costs. Like many things in modern life (Hoover?) a name carries on in the generic sense. Counter boring the nut is done largely to avoid binding on the plain shoulder. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 13, 2023 Report Share Posted August 13, 2023 Thank you, PeteH! A case of custom and practice and the good old adaptability of the English language! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted August 14, 2023 Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 On 13/08/2023 at 09:59, PeteH said: the first wheel "studs" where indeed threaded both ends and screw`d into the axle fitting. Yes. Indeed TR2 & TR3 (drums front & rear) and later TR3 & TR4 (rear only) studs were indeed studs - if it's acceptable to call it that when there's a shoulder in the middle. See Rimmer's. Once inserted, the thread was centre-punched to stop it unscrewing. Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted August 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2023 On 11/08/2023 at 22:33, thescrapman said: I fitted Freelander studs and M12 Ford Escort/Fiesta nuts to my Spitfire with Standard oval hole wheels, no issues with holes being wrong size. Could you advise what year the Escort/Fiesta nuts would be, or what year you made the change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 15, 2023 Report Share Posted August 15, 2023 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-X-ALLOY-WHEEL-NUTS-FORD-ESCORT-M12-x-1-5-19MM-HEX-OPEN-ENDED-LUG-BOLT-STUD-31/223491895877?hash=item340927b245:g:ipkAAOSwuUNcOnr1&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA0EVdXUCqNA9LHFWdFItrrkollnOV6UFiO9pc2bRuADhFmLyoBfXfRoV6lYGftgWNjb8c9C8ByqpDPY4p38595KyJlnaIFUMnolrgnMFa3h+4SU4dtF0dzzGN9sxBU+ya/tHlRlfPR5U6piHHqu7ilzWNyIkMEINJRYHUCnheWtSwqOlL0n8z6wDJVk1KDqzF+wfBJ4JOi633u6fI0Qxb5quAGQbr9FwNme7PtPhur5jxFWiKdJgx1OXNSeWdlwujYhnfdl0a+EiJ4N/WdUy4jqU=|tkp:Bk9SR_CO2YK_Yg&pageci=483c6748-ef0a-4df8-8eb9-91469891bb2f&redirect=mobile Look like these Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig113 Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 i'm in the same position at the moment, are the alloy wheel nuts listed above ok for the standard steel wheels as well ? i have used old fiesta nuts as a tempory option with some old wheels for now. cheers paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 Can I just emphasise anyone contemplating changing to alloy wheels, to check the correct torque figures?. Some time ago it was discovered that over tightening could propagate a form of stress cracking originating from the bolt holes. I knew nothing about this until I discovered cracks in one of the very expensive wheels on a Ford Granada Gina 😂 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now