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GT6 Mk3 only runs well with VERY advanced timing. Any ideas why?


nicrguy1966

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saying the cam timing can only be changed by a 1/4 tooth by turning it over or using he other holes is not really true as the holes in the sprocket are bigger than the bolts, so there is a good few degrees of movement of the sprocket before tightening and this gives the fine control, so it can be set spot on without a vernier setup

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, 2.5 hours into the job and the radiator is out and the fan is off.

I'm stuck at undoing the nut on the crack pulley. Even with the car in gear and the handbrake on, the car's just edging towards the garage door every time I give it a really hard pull.

I've soaked it in WD40 and thought I'd see if the hive mind of TSSC would tell me I'm missing something obvious.

20231013_145259.jpg

Edited by nicrguy1966
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10 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:

Ok, 2.5 hours into the job and the radiator is out and the fan is off.

I'm stuck at undoing the nut on the crack pulley. Even with the car in gear and the handbrake on, the car's just edging towards the garage door every time I give it a really hard pull.

I've soaked it in WD40 and thought I'd see if the hive mind of TSSC would tell me I'm missing something obvious.

20231013_145259.jpg

In days of old, I have seen a skilled mechanic attach a very good fitting ring spanner or socket and Tommy bar to the nut, ensured that the spanner was resting safely against the chassis , distributor cap removed and the starter motor “flicked “ to unlock the nut. Make sure you are happy with the position of the spanner before doing so. 

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2 minutes ago, Puglet1 said:

In days of old, I have seen a skilled mechanic attach a very good fitting ring spanner or socket and Tommy bar to the nut, ensured that the spanner was resting safely against the chassis , distributor cap removed and the starter motor “flicked “ to unlock the nut. Make sure you are happy with the position of the spanner before doing so. 

Sounds a bit scary. I'll see if soaking overnight with WD40 has any effect first, but it might come to that.

I tried a ring spanner and hitting the handle with a hammer to see if the shock wave would free it (I wasn't expecting that to work, but worth a try!)

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Despite the 2000+ "uses" that WD40 claims, including as a penetrating oil, it's pretty useless  for that purpose.

There are many other purpose made penetrators, plus some home brews (Acetone and ATF? Ah, le bouquet, monsieur!), but my own favourite is 'Innotec DeBlock'

Innotec deblock rustopløser 500ml - spare-parts.dk

Some heat may help too.  No need for red heat, but get it too hot to touch!

John

Edited by JohnD
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42 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Despite the 2000+ "uses" that WD40 claims, including as a penetrating oil, it's pretty useless  for that purpose.

There are many other purpose made penetrators, plus some home brews (Acetone and ATF? Ah, le bouquet, monsieur!), but my own favourite is 'Innotec DeBlock'

Innotec deblock rustopløser 500ml - spare-parts.dk

Some heat may help too.  No need for red heat, but get it too hot to touch!

John

I have a blow touch (somewhere!). I'll try that before sending my ring spanner through the bonnet!

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if you think about where the thread section is then any squirt on stuff wont get anywhere near it 

it needs a sharp shock ,so a decent ring spanner and  a clout  with a club hammer 

but a 1/2 drive impact  battery gun is the best solution so put one on your wish list along with a set of impact sockets 

preferably in imperial sizes 

Pete

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