Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Finally got round to taking a peek at why there is a rub mark on the underside of the bonnet. It seems the rad cap is touching. I can't raise the front on the bonnet as it results in a 'effin great gap at the door/bonnet lower area so I looked to see if I could alter the height and angle of the rad. I can't lower the rad so I put packers at the mounting pads to angle to top forward. I tried this first as its difficult to assess as the rad cap is at an angle as is the bonnet. That was worse, although no visible mark on the outer bonnet face, so I angled the top rearwards which is better but still just gives a witness mark. I'm only looking for a couple of mill clearance so I'll try moving the rad rearwards but with the 12" sucker electric fan it's already mighty close to the water pump. Anyone else had this problem. Note I have a Bastuck rad. Photos of current gaps. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 1 hour ago, Iain T said: Photos of current gaps. You can't see the gaps from the driver's seat so, don't worry about what you can't see 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 I'm happy with those gaps, nothing will ever bind! What prompted me to investigate was a slight tinny rattle from the front of the car when accelerating at higher revs. At first I thought pinking but no evidence at wot from low revs and high gear. I think and hope it's the cap chattering against the bonnet. I've moved the rad now and I'll stick some thin HD foam on the cap and go for a spin tomorrow, the roads are jammed now, to see if the noise has gone🤞 Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 the O/S door gap looks like that side need to be raised to get the taper door gap to a parallel gap are there pads on the rad mount brkts you could remove ?? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Is it one of the 'ears' of the radiator cap thats touching as Ive noticed on mine one ends up facing forwards when the cap is done up so putting it closer to the slope of the bonnet. You can test it with some putty to see where the squash point is and if so cut both off with a hacksaw so the cap is round? Smooth the edges obviously and the cap will still function perfectly normally... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 8 minutes ago, johny said: Is it one of the 'ears' of the radiator cap No the ears are pointing across car. It's obviously not hitting hard or there would be a witness on the bonnet outer but it's rubbed off all the inner side paint. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Almost certainly the radiator is slightly taller than original... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 More chaffing than a new pair of leather underpants...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: are there pads on the rad mount brkts you could remove ? No pads, that would be too easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: the O/S door gap looks like that side need to be raised to get the taper door gap to a parallel gap I'll perhaps play with the rubber cone height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Looking at it, I think you may have to raise the front of the Bonnet to get clearance. On a 13/60, I spent weeks "tweeking" the gaps even now they aren`t perfect. Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 I think it's going to be a bit of bonnet fiddling and radiator angle. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 If that doesnt work the only suggestion Ive got is to get creative with the rad mount brackets. They could be modified (with a hacksaw) so it sits lower... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 (edited) the cone heights look ok there is an adjustable drop link hides under the overrider that would raise the os and even up the taper better and you gain a few mm across the front of the bonnet Pete Edited October 13, 2023 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 If the rad is taller than standard then can you drop it to a lower set of mounting holes on the engine valences? The holes are in pairs so there's scope for height adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: the cone heights look ok there is an adjustable drop link hides under the overrider 3 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: the rad is taller than standard then can you drop it to a lower set of mounting holes on the engine valences Didn't know that! I thought the rad mounting brackets were welded on to the chassis. I was going to remove the front valance to clean and possibly repaint so I'll take a look. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 20 minutes ago, Iain T said: Didn't know that! I thought the rad mounting brackets were welded on to the chassis. On my Vitesse they are welded with no adjustment possible☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 I need to take a look..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 I spaced my rad back with some approx 2mm thick aluminium flat bar (that used to be rucksack reinforcement) on the Spitfire, then gave the front ear of the cap a few whacks with a hammer and scraped a bit of insulation off the underside of the bonnet. Got just enough clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 I think 1 hour ago, johny said: On my Vitesse they are welded with no adjustment possible☹️ I think Colin may be thinking Herald thoughts where the rad is mounted to the engine bay valances? Which I think is not the case for the Vitesse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 agree the rad brackets are part of the chassis not adjustable ...very Fixed pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted October 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 12 hours ago, Josef said: I spaced my rad back with some approx 2mm thick aluminium flat bar That's what I've done but used some 1.5mm ali sheet. I slid the packer at the front of the rad mounting bracket to angle the top of rad rearwards. It moved about 15mm. The bonnet hinge brackets are welded and not adjustable and have an angled slot for adjustment of the pivot pin. Therefore raising the front also pushes the bonnet forward which increases to bonnet rear to windscreen lower gap. This is what happens when a car is a meccano set of sub assemblies of questionable accuracy! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 who welded the drop links ????? nuts these (should) do need to swivel so when adjusting the turnbuckle on the tie rods the bonnet moves fore /aft to set the gap to the screen panel ......... thats not possible if the links are welded you can see the links on here item 36 1600 Bonnet Assembly : Canley Classics pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 13 hours ago, Josef said: I think I think Colin may be thinking Herald thoughts where the rad is mounted to the engine bay valances? Which I think is not the case for the Vitesse? Yes I was, apologies!! Forgot how the vitesse rad is mounted. Ah well.... back to the coffee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 (edited) Mine is the same as Iains, although mine is an ally rad from Radtec racing, I think the mounts are about 2-3mm higher than they should be. If I could I would cut them off and get them dropped, but I just left it. It also has a Spal sucker fan that is Very close to the water pump pulley so no scope for movement backwards. S Edited October 14, 2023 by Steve P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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