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Jacking point


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Hi,

When jacking the rear of my Vitesse is it safe to jack by the rear cross member? I know that the best option is to jack by the differential but my differential has a drain plug which, obviously, is getting in the way.

Cheers

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The problem with jacking on the rear crossmember is that it doesn’t give you a good surface parallel to the ground for the jack to engage with. However I have seen a suggestion to make a wooden ‘pad’ that is roughly L shaped in cross section that will engage on two edges of the crossmember and provide a jacking surface.

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1 hour ago, Josef said:

The problem with jacking on the rear crossmember is that it doesn’t give you a good surface parallel to the ground for the jack to engage with. However I have seen a suggestion to make a wooden ‘pad’ that is roughly L shaped in cross section that will engage on two edges of the crossmember and provide a jacking surface.

I think that was my design, Joseph!   Made from a wood block, the jacking surface matches the slope of the cross member, while the lower surface is horizontal.  A block of wood is left at rhe lower end so that it doesn't slip off, reinforced with two long wood screws.

Can't offer a pic as I'm not at home.

John

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John essential with my trolley jack as it slowly goes down over a few hours frustrating but ensures I always use the axle stands

Re the sloping timber under the crossmember mines similar a sloping piece of wood with a steel angle to hold it in place ensures good clearance between front of crossmember and diff, it also has a circular locating piece to engage the trolley jacks head. I made my diy tool about 45 years ago to avoid damaging the crossmember and it’s paint/underseal

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15 hours ago, johny said:

Recognised or not Ive found it great for 30+ years as it sits nicely in the trolley jack cup and I can then get axle stands in on the chassis either side👍

Same here; it's a certain the jack won't slip anywhere as the diff is settled into the cup. I very rarely if ever use it as a longer-term support point though; it lifts the Herald off the ground so I can get the arms of the lift under it.  

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Always used a jack under the diff. to lift the back of my Vitesse, when I fitted a drain plug used one that uses an Allen key so flush with the bottom of the diff.

A pad for the jack with a hole in for a square head type drain plug should work.

Regards

Paul

 

s-l300.webp

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the diff with its attached spring does carry the full load of the rear suspension but 

that doesnt mean its a safe jacking point  we will never know why triumph did not advise its use 

the chassis is best but can suffer the slip mentioned 

the only advised jack points are on the front /rear corners of the side rails /outriggers 

and we have all seen bent ones of those 

Pete

 

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TBH, I`ve often used the diff; casing as the rear first lift point to get stands under many cars. Usually with a soft pad of some sort to spread the point load across the casting. On the Vit; Herald, the diff is actually bolted to the chassis and is (to my mind) the more stable point. IF a casting fractured, I would suspect a casting defect the more likely cause than the mass of the vehicle.

Pete

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On 20/10/2024 at 15:19, Ian Foster said:

I think John means something like this.

Ian

DSC_8337.JPG

Hi Ian,

I am just getting round to making the block as you described. Just one question - how did you determine the angle to use on the block.

Cheers

Terry

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40 minutes ago, Terry J said:

Just one question - how did you determine the angle to use on the block

I made it over 40 years ago, so not sure I can remember. Probably a bit of card and a small spirit level.

Anyway, I've just measured mine and it's about 8 degrees from the horizontal. It's not super critical, as sometimes you jack the front first, sometimes just the rear.

Ian

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