Badwolf Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 So, after collecting all the paint, tools and knowledge (!!??) together, it's time to get going with the new paint job. However, before I break out the paint stripper, a look around the car shows up the fact that the doors don't fit particularly well. The gaps are uneven and the nearside sticks out at the bottom. Yes, I know that they probably do need adjustment but looking at the photos supplied for the valuation, I noticed that when the sills were replaced with the body off the chassis, the door gaps weren't reinforced so the body is very likely to be out of allignment, and has been for 30 years!! Now the question... is there any point in worrying about it, can it be fixed in any way without a major welding job or do I just leave it alone, live with it and paint it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Following on from my last post, I have just been attempting to get a better alignment on the doors/body panels before I set to on the repaint job, thinking that any damage done by realigning is best done before painting. However no matter what I try, the bottom section of the driver's door sticks out about 1/2". The top is nicely alligned but there is a gap inside at the bottom of, again, about 1/2". Either the door is twisted or the sills were put on badly (I fear the latter). Does anyone have any words of wisdom about correcting this before I try anything drastic like packing the top of the door with a cushion or similar and pushing in to try to twist the door in at the bottom. I realise thuis could have serious implications with the window and door latch mechanism!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 If it was a herald or vitesse it would become tub spread but not aware if the spitfire/gt6 can spread at the top of the B post So it gives the bottom of the door proud you may be the first to prove this out , on H &V you,need to pull the top of the B post/wing top in towards the centre Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 H&v?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 1, 2019 Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 11 hours ago, Badwolf said: H&v?? Herald and Vitesse. The dreaded "tub spread" is a problem for them as the wings basically just sit on the chassis. The Spitfire tub is more rigid in itself so tends not to distort the same way, but it's not impossible. More likely, though, is that the sills are not properly aligned. I have that problem on Toby, because he's had all the panels replaced with new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 Thanks Pete and N/M. Only realised this morning H&V-Herald and Vitesse!!. Sorry. I will have swing on the B post later and report back. If anyone has any experience in 're-aligning' 'bent' Spitfire doors can you let me know please. Several of the Spitfire panels were replaced in the original refurb and I am pretty sure that is the problem. I am also sure that it would be a very expensive job to correct. I will dig out some photos for you all to go "ou nasty" at later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2019 Ok, so I have now had a swing on the B post. I doesn't move and is probably as solid as they get. I think that the problems may lie in this! When the bodywork was done 30 years ago, I had no idea that the door gaps had to be strengthened while the sills were replaced (photo shows near side which, ironically is not too bad). This picture shows the top of the drivers door, which is pulled in a little to much and the bottom, which sticks out about 1cm. I suspect that there is little that I can do in the way of adjustment apart from physically twisting the door along its length the try to make a better fit. As mentioned previously, this could cause problems with the window mechanism also, obviously any 'adapting' would be done with the window extended or the glass will probably shatter. The door wasn't re-skinned at the time of the previous work and I can only assume that the sills and rear wing were not fitted correctly in line with the door. Any thoughts from any of you, especially those who have suffered similar alignment problems would be greatly received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2019 So.... before I even take a sander to the paint-work, I decide to fit the new shock absorbers. So armed with poly-bushes, I fit the new shocks and replace the radius arm bushes at the same time. Everything goes well until, while I have the wheel jacked up, having read a post on the forum somewhere about torquing up the spring-eye bolt with the car on its wheels and having poly-bushed the swing spring eye (see previous posts) last year, I slacken it off, tighten up and despite being careful about the torque wrench settings, strip the thread. Right, now, R. Bros say that this is a standard bolt (not HT or anything special) 7/16"UNF x 3 1/2". Also when I let the car down it is 1" higher on the side with the new shock, than the other, even after rolling the car back and forward a few times. So the questions... 1. How do I get the old bolt out? 2. Can I order a bog-standard bolt off my normal bolt supplier who is only down the road from me? 3. Will the level settle (obviously it will even up when I do the other side after a few miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Yes std bolt the bush has a crush tube so that takes the bush rotation etc. What torque did you use odd you managed to strip it . 42bft is about all it needs thats hand tight witha normal spanner and one hand. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Pete thanks . Wrench set tp 48 as per Haynes manual. What is the best way to remove the bolt without damaging the vertical link. I think I may hwave a nut splitter someshere but dont know if t will fit in the gap in the vert link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 probably needs the upright /and all off to get a solid hit on the remains , Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 So you have the thread stripped on the both that goes through the vertical link and spring eye, but still have the nut on it? If the bold will move at all back-and-forth I'd try to get it as far 'bolt head out' as you can and try to jam a screwdriver under the bolt head, the idea being to try and force the nut on to a non-stripped section of thread so you can wind it off. If there's no lateral movement generally force the two sides of the vertical link apart, above the spring. You don't want to go crazy and again you're just trying to force the nut on to some good thread so it grips (even if it grips in a cross-threaded way - you;r going to replace the nut and bolt anyway). I'd start with the shaft end of a hammer between the vertical link tips and pushed laterally by hand to try and spread them. With just hand pressure you shouldn't be at any risk of damaging the vertical link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Thanks Gents. I'm having a little trouble sourcing replacement bolts from my usual source. They only have high tensile steel versions or stainless. I know stainless will be to soft, are the HT any good for this. I suspect that when the original bolts were replaced during the rebuild, they were damaged then. I will try to remove the old bolt later and advise you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 nothing wrong with a higher spec bolt dont like stainless on safety components Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Thanks Pete. You never fail to help. Bolts ordered. Now... what can you advise about my ill fitting drivers door!!!??? ADDITION: Simples!!! ... Of course my nut cutter from 30 years ago was too small for the nut in question so, working on the same principal as the cutter, and knowing that the bolt was scrap I drilled the side of the nut with a 1/8" drill and when it had gone into the bolt moved it to a very acute angle to drill along the side of the nut. Then, turned it around and did the same on the other side. A whack and twist with an old screw-driver and off it fell. The inside was smooth, I mean, it looked like a drill had been run down it. I have never seen a nut or bolt so badly stripped. Either my torque wrench is goosed or this nut was well damaged before it went back on. Mind you, most of the other bolts around the radius arm were the wrong size... and before anyone says it, I didn't rebuild that bit. That was left to a professional mechanic!! They will all be replaced with new bolts washers etc just in case. Now to see what the other side brings. I am still a little worried that the side with the new shock is 1" higher than the other but will see how it turns out after the other side is done and a few miles covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Do you have the modern tubular rubber door seals, as I found that these are too tight and push the bottom of the door out. Try to see if the door aligns without the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 55 minutes ago, DanMi said: Do you have the modern tubular rubber door seals, as I found that these are too tight and push the bottom of the door out. Try to see if the door aligns without the seal. Good idea but after taking off the door seal, which indeed was new... 30 years ago (!!) it has made no difference except for a dreadful gap where the seals was. Will put it back in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 If its not the door setting we have to ask if spits can suffer tub spread ??? Iie pull the top of B post in to make the door bottom flush Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Hi Pete. Alresdy tried that - see earlier post. B post solid and doesnt move. Probably the most solid part of the car. Any other thoughts please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Lots of thoughts....... non of any use .... bacon sarnie or wheat abix ???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Bacon sarnie everytime. If there is no easy way to adjust I will try adjusting by bending the door panel. I have done this before when I had to refit the door of my old modern when I... wait for it... tried to reverse through the gates of the drive with the door open, bending it back against the A post!!! Fitted it by putting a cushion at the top/bottom and pushing until the door fitted again. It worked well, but whether it will work on the Spitfire..... I will let you know. I am sure that when the replacenent panels were fitted the B post was out of alignment and it was welded up like that, so nice and solid... but wrong, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 in the factory body in white , much use of giant wooden battons and cricket bats to stick in apertures and slam doors on to reset hinges and such like, would frighten the uninitiated but was common practice across the marques. put it together in a jig then bend and clout seven bells out of it to make it all line up, probably goes on today . but the much tighter gap tolerances of a modern requires better tooling than the 60s Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 When I went on a tour of the Longbridge factory quite some years back, there was a guy on the Metro production line whose job was to make the doors fit right. Each car that arrived, he would close the door, look at the window frame gap, open the door, put a knee against the trim panel and yank the frame. Then he'd close the door, now a perfect fit, and go on to the next one. A real craftsman 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 and the following complaints as the drop glass was now having to negotiate a bend in the glass frame this was all common practice. it was typical to design something you could adjust but on production time constraints made the bodge it and bang it a speedy option ....especially going back to the days of piecework most buying their pride and joy would need tranquilisers if they knew . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Thanks Gents. You have all given me hope. I will report back good or bad. Shame I can't make it tomorrow to 'Twiddle 0419', you could have had great fun doing the re-align on site!! Hope the sun shines for you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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