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** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!


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23 hours ago, Bordfunker said:

Colin that definitely looks like something I’d paint the shed with, not a car!

That's what I bought it for, as it stated it was for woodstain (or spray tan)... NO mention of car paint. At least it only cost me £38. 

I can't find any reference to the older version which at least had a real paint gun... have they vanished off the face of the earth? Not even a second-hand one!

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Colin - I have been looking for the blue model, which, as mentioned, is the one I bought off fleabay last year for about £40, and I suspect was the one that I think you mentioned way back in this thread. They must now be collectors items and be very rare as no one appears to be selling them. They did get a very good review years back which is probably why no one now parts with them.

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I've rechecked the box of mine and it claims to be perfect for paint, including car bodywork, spray tan (especially on a body like the back end of a bus?) and woodstain, so I might be able to experiment after all. It just looks cheap and feels insubstantial.

The original one had what looked like a proper spraygun, in hard black plastic. You can just about see it in the lower right of the photo. I lent it to a local business to spray signs; they went bust overnight and probably a lot more people than just me are looking for them... :)

DSCF0009.JPG.785700c7814812ffbbc71420d723bf89.JPG

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Everyone. Not posted much for ages or done much work on the car but now finally catching up.

On this 2018 New Year's Eve, I would like to thank all the contributor's who have made this forum the gem that it is. An absolute wealth of experience, guidance, help and humour, the contributors of which give with no thought of reward, just the enjoyment of helping others. As on previous years, chap and chapesses, thank you all soo much.

Have a happy and prosporous New Year....... thank you all. BW

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Here's something that wandered into my mind after reading posts about New Year's rides out.

It's currently very cold, salt on the roads etc, etc. Assuming 'normal' winter weather, how long does it take for the salt to get washed away so it doesn't plaster the unside of our pride and joys? Would itnbe after the first rainfall or maybe it needs a few days of rain? 

Just a bit of a ramb!e while there is salt on the roads a it's to cold to venture into the garage to do something useful on the car.

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1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

Unusual for a thread drift to actually develop in a different, but accurate direction to the actual question asked!!  Very grateful for the heater advice but now does anyone have any thoughts about the salt on the roads please.

Difficult to say as it depends firstly on how much salt is put down. Here in the North East they proudly boast of how many tons they use every night - it has been dry for the past few days and you can see the stuff blowing about the road surface! I reckon it will take a few days of heavy rain before my GT6 sees the great outdoors.

Sam

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As we are not iced very frequently and are not into having a set of winter tyres in the garage 

Salt does seem the answer to keeping us Brits on the move

As a country that we do seem to have idiots that dont realise when its cold or white out its slippy, or those who can't clear their screens to see ok.

 but you dont want salt on your classic tucked away after a run  nasty stuff.

How long to dissipate   off the road .......I would think a good few days of heavy rain

You could  try the tongue test  but may get run over by someone with a frosted screen 

  • Haha 1
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They salted/gritted the roads here twice last week - 15g first night, 8g the second. The roads were dry when treated and have been ever since. There's no sign of tracks on the road and none of the vehicles have the tell-tale white tyres they get when there's a lot of salt on the surface. I went up to Northampton and back this morning in the GT6 via the A507 and M1 and no sign of any salt on it when I reached home.

What I always avoid is wet, salty roads - the brine can get in anywhere and no amount of washing / wiping is likely to shift it!

Gully

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I am planning on going to the NEC restoration show in March and am wondering if anyone can give me a heads up on the best stands to visit with regards to bodywork refinishing, so that I don't waste too much time when I first arrive. The idea is to plan what I really need to see right at the start and then meander around later. I am also hoping to order stuff from the club shop to collect there if possible.

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... also can anyone tell me if it will be possible to get a valuation from anyone on the club stand and if so, exactly what I need to take with me. Obviously I don't want to take unnessess.ary stuff, but can take hi-res photos on my tablet and whatever documents are needed along with the fee in cash/card.

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Pete - I appreciate that but I don't think she would make the NEC or that they would let us in. Photos and documents is a stop gap until I can get a 'look see' valuation. It will certainly be better than what I have at the moment. I think my last valuation cert expired in 1998!! What documents will I need and how many photos  - all external, engine bay, interior.. anything else?

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Dick - Thanks, downloaded, but it did not immediately come up on the home page and nothing in the search routine even after logging in to tssc site. Eventually got it by googling 'tssc>agreed value insurance form'. A bit weird, I don't usually have problems like this. Thanks all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I suddenly had a thought while I was looking for respray stuff around the web sites. I assume that if I am going to brush on 2k primer, I will also need 2k thinners to thin paint as needed and clean brushes etc. What is the difference between 2k and ordinary cellulose thinners. Also between 'gun clean', 'anti bloom' and 'high gloss' thinners?

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On ‎27‎/‎09‎/‎2018 at 11:56, Badwolf said:

 

Further to posts on other threads about Windows 10. I tried to print something yesterday, only to find that none of my printers would print text, only graphics. After a lot of searchng. I eventully found that Microsoft had loaded, without my permission, a 'crutial update'. This crippled my printing capability. A attempt to do a 'point restore' failed and my system is now toast. I post this as a warning in case anyone else has problems. It will now take days to restore my programs, thankfully all my data is backed up.

Footnote.... Managed to find a restoration point that worked and system now back up and running... until M/S has another go at destroying my computer under the heading of 'update'!

 

Unless you have win 10 professional you cant stop the updates. You can buy a Win10 key for very little on Ebay OR you can set the properties for you wifi on the Win10 machine to 'metered' and then it will not download the upgrades without asking! Had to do this on a small laptop I use as it doesn't have enough RAM to install the new versions of Win10 without removing everything first.
This does leave your PC open to bugs and other nasty stuff but does give you control of when it does updates!

Mike

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16 hours ago, Badwolf said:

I suddenly had a thought while I was looking for respray stuff around the web sites. I assume that if I am going to brush on 2k primer, I will also need 2k thinners to thin paint as needed and clean brushes etc. What is the difference between 2k and ordinary cellulose thinners. Also between 'gun clean', 'anti bloom' and 'high gloss' thinners?

As I understand it.

2K thinners is best quality.

High Gloss for top coat if not using 2K thinners

Anti Bloom used in humid conditions or cold, when I sprayed top coat on my Vitesse although I used heaters to increase the temperature in the garage the car body was still cold and ended up with a dull finish, polished out OK, anti bloom should help prevent this.

Gun clean cheapest best used for what it says but could be used for primer.

Any paint sprayers out there as I am not.

Regards

Paul

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Mike - Thanks for that. I have previously tried everything you suggest except the 'windows key' which is new to me. Not having updates may leave me open to dangerous flaws in W10 but I prefer that to it trashing my system and stopping my perfectly adequate, paid for, older programmes from working properly. In all honesty, and I know that this is impossible, but I feel that W10 should be supplied with virtual copies of all windows operating systems which can be accessed from within it, instead of all the junk that I donlt want which should be available as bolt on apps for those who do need it.

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Macs are becoming the same; my Mac updates regularly, but many of the programmes don't keep up.

I'm now getting critical messages about Microsoft Word, which I use a lot, and my Epson print apps, which I also use regularly, to tell me that they're no longer fully compatible and I need to update. When I check their respective websites they state they have no intention of releasing an update for Mac. I presume the only option is to buy the very latest product from both, and bin my very reliable older versions.

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2 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

As I understand it.

2K thinners is best quality.

High Gloss for top coat if not using 2K thinners

Anti Bloom used in humid conditions or cold, when I sprayed top coat on my Vitesse although I used heaters to increase the temperature in the garage the car body was still cold and ended up with a dull finish, polished out OK, anti bloom should help prevent this.

Gun clean cheapest best used for what it says but could be used for primer.

Any paint sprayers out there as I am not.

Close. The 2K thing isn't about quality but compatibility. 2K vs. cellulose vs. acrylic are different types of paint and are not mutually compatible, so you need the right type of thinners for your paint. Within each type, there are different grades of thinners, where "high gloss", "anti-bloom" etc. are much as you describe.

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