Peter Truman Posted August 30, 2022 Report Share Posted August 30, 2022 Like Paula the step drill sounds a good idea but doing it scares me too, ie the protruding lower barrel section into the hole damaging the threads. How about a good quality steel cutting countersinking drill bit, it won't protrude into the stud hole so won't have the potential to damage the threads. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 31, 2022 Report Share Posted August 31, 2022 youre only giving it a touch not cutting great chamfers and dont do anything if its all very flat after a clean and sand with a hard block with some oiled wet and dry any pulled high points around the dtud holes will shine up first Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 31, 2022 Report Share Posted August 31, 2022 get some for the 1600 steel gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted September 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 The head and block are all lovely and flat. I checked with a brand new steel ruler. I wonder if the whole problem was the lack of little hole in the thermostat all along! I'm waiting for my Stud and Wellseal to arrive before putting it back together so i got the paint out. Do i just do a very thing smear of the Wellseal on both sides of the gasket when it finally arrives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 1, 2022 Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 i would paint it on both faces of head and block leave the gasket dry to find it own level in the goo Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted September 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2022 2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: i would paint it on both faces of head and block leave the gasket dry to find it own level in the goo Pete Oooo nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted September 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2022 All back together and he’s refusing to start. Just turning over slowly. I’ve tried jumping from the van but that’s not making any difference. I can turn the engine over fine with the fan. There’s fuel as I’ve also flooded the carbs and they are now dripping. I feel like it would start if I could get a good crank on it. weird how the jump doesn’t work from the van though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 11, 2022 Report Share Posted September 11, 2022 Paula, Slow turnover when jumped, indicates a problem between the battery and the starter, or in the starter. Broken wites on the starter cable. or poor conduction across the starter solenoid? Jump it direct to the starter (wear gloves!), or to the up- and then downstream side of the solenoid. The fault is in the bit you have bypassed. Starter more difficult to test. Is yours an OE with inertia Bendix drive, or a HiTorque with a pre-engaged drive? Good luck! John PS Earth return from engine block? It's isolated on rubber mounts and needs as thick a conductor as the starter cable to carry the 300-odd Amps that the starter draws. Other routes such as the choke cable really won't do and can get red hot! Triumph provided a manky uninsulated, unprotected mesh cable that often gets left off, or even rusts away. Replace with a length of starter cable from a convenient bolt (Bell housing? Coil mount?) to the chassis earth. J. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted September 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2022 Thank you! loose cable on Solenoid were off 68459050411__AC3511DA-CBF3-4756-8A5E-0BEB79F822A1.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted September 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2022 Think I might have done that by moving the manifolds out of the way. Possibly shorted the battery flat too. getting good at this! 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 11, 2022 Report Share Posted September 11, 2022 hats off to the heads off Feargal rides again well done do a retorque after youve done a couple of hundred miles or at least after a little bit of use and check tappets after a re torqure as reclamping the head will generally change /close up the tappet gap Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 12, 2022 Report Share Posted September 12, 2022 Also, to the systematic diagnostic process! I'll bet you went to connect to the solenoid terminal, and that was when you found it loose! Well done! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 Well here i am again. This one's stumped me. It's running very well and keeping cool until i've been stuck in traffic for a long time or i'm giving it the beans on the motorway. It runs fine until i put my foot down and it runs lumpy and starts to lose power. This gets worse until i'm limping home and breaking down outside sainsbury's (where you see everyone you know!) I have to let him cool down and then limp home. It doesn't recover until it's completely cooled. Then it's all good again. The plugs are very sooted up. Changed 4 of the plugs (all i had in the boot) I've flushed and cleaned out the cooling system and checked the carbs. When i push the little button to raise the carb damper piston the revs rise slightly and then settle down to idle. I've changed the distributor cap and rotor that was badly corroded. (when i saw that i gave a hurrah that i later had to withdraw) I've checked the thermostat. I've changed the air filters. Put a new fuel filter on. I'd like to check the fuel pump, but it seems to be fine when i remove a pipe it has a good squirt. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 1, 2023 Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 Hi Paula, Id be looking at the coil, electronic ignition or points condenser as it seems to be temperature related... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 32 minutes ago, johny said: Hi Paula, Id be looking at the coil, electronic ignition or points condenser as it seems to be temperature related... Oh! That's something i hadn't thought of! I have one knocking about too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 It's electronic ignition. Hopefully the coil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 1, 2023 Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 Could be flooding? Floods over time, cuts out but then after a time the excess fuel evaporates and off you go again? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 11 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Could be flooding? Floods over time, cuts out but then after a time the excess fuel evaporates and off you go again? It doesn't smell like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 1, 2023 Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 (edited) If raising the pin a few mm raises the idle a bit so he is a tad on the rich side of normal that goes with the sooty plugs turn the jet adjuster in /up a 1/2 turn if it improves the idle turn more to get the best running do check the coil polarity neg to dizzy pos to ignition , wired back to front can work fine then give all sorts of get out and kick it troubles make sure the air filers are not blocking the breather holes on the front of the carbs good luck then there is a dreaded rubber slivers blocking float needle valves pete Edited October 1, 2023 by Pete Lewis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 ‘New’ coil fitted. Went for a lap of my test track (A30 to Esher and back) We’re all good! Thank you. I forgot what a little pocket rocket he was. Been having far too much fun on the way back. runs like a dream. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 2, 2023 Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 dont you just love the easy fixes pleased he is back up to speed Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 Dammit. Spoke too soon i think. He's running lovely even when left idling for a good time. But after about 30mins in traffic he starts to run lumpy and eventually only runs on 4 or 5 Cylinders. One of the plugs is wet and most of the rest are sooty. I've checked the carbs and they are not running rich as far as i can tell. I've replaced the coil and the electronic ignition. I've also put new plugs distributer capo and rotor in. I'm starting to think something else may be wrong. Maybe valves seals? It's a shame because he's running like a dream up until the long time in traffic. He's overheating a little maybe but hardly at all over halfway on the gauge and that's after a long time in traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 27, 2023 Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 (edited) Paula, I don't trust temperature senders! Especially modern replicas, that go off in months. They can under and overread. Check with an IR 'gun' what the actual temp is at the thermostat, or take out the sender and calibrate it, in a pan of water, over a camp stove, with the IR gun, or a cooking thermometer: Extend wires to the sensor in the bath to the loom and a good earth, so you can read what the gauge says on the dash. Then you KNOW what "3/4" hot means! John Edited October 27, 2023 by JohnD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2023 2 hours ago, JohnD said: Paula, I don't trust temperature senders! Especially modern replicas, that go off in months. They can under and overread. Check with an IR 'gun' what the actual temp is at the thermostat, or take out the sender and calibrate it, in a pan of water, over a camp stove, with the IR gun, or a cooking thermometer: Extend wires to the sensor in the bath to the loom and a good earth, so you can read what the gauge says on the dash. Then you KNOW what "3/4" hot means! John So I might be overheating. I’ll look into it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted October 28, 2023 Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 check the earth connection in the distributor, the small wire that goes to the plate that holds the points electronic ignition. If you dont have that wire the plate is earthed thru the rotating parts of the plate and this can start to fail when it gets hot. Had a GT6 that had this problem.... mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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