Hello from Paula and her Vitesse

[Paula]

Just now, Josef said:

They can go with the sofa made from a Herald front end that’s funnily still not sold on eBay…

Ha ha.I wonder why?

[Pete Lewis]

6 minutes ago, Paula said:

move the stick too far to the lef

the remote kits are pretty awful its probably one of the bushes has carved up 

if its the top cup and washer you can see that without removing the tunnel  just the gaitor

Pete

[Paula]

Actually when I mess with it. It’s that I don’t have to push down to get into reverse now

[Pete Lewis]

unscrew the gear knob and have a lookat the top cup washer ( not the big one you have lifted)

these cup washers can have a nasty cropped edge which minces the plastic cup up in miuntes 

any new kit must be filled smooth befor you fit it 

if the main ball has worn that drops the stick below the reverse lock plate 

sound like that is whats going on   

if you can get to the pivot bolt under the ally housing you can get the whole stick out without the tunnel off 

ive seen tunnels  cut to get access to this sodding thing 

let us know what you find 

cant remeber if i replaced any of those bits  we need someone to manufacture the main ball from brass

not monkey plastic ( the very early cars were brass ) they used plastic to cut down noise 

and to add if the springs circlip jumps out the stick drops 

Pete

 

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[NonMember]

Something's been chewing up bits of the bushing there! Like Pete says, very common with the quality of these bush kits.

[Paula]

[Pete Lewis]

apart from the wear debris i think the circlip has popped off  the smaller inner spring should be down ontop of the ball 

its this smaller spring that you push down for reverse if its  clip is adrift the stick will stay low 

the groove in the stick wears , ive refettled one with a cutting disc on a dremmel type tool to deepen the groove

Pete

[Paula]

2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

apart from the wear debris i think the circlip has popped off  the smaller inner spring should be down ontop of the ball 

its this smaller spring that you push down for reverse if its  clip is adrift the stick will stay low 

the groove in the stick wears , ive refettled one with a cutting disc on a dremmel type tool to deepen the groove

Pete

Oh I remember that clip.

I’ll have a look tomorrow. 
cheers!

[daverclasper]

8 hours ago, Paula said:

Surely with all the stuff i have hanging around i can do something like that.

Yes, At todays prices they would be around £10 each?, except we've now got, good old China! 

[Clive]

3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

unscrew the gear knob and have a lookat the top cup washer ( not the big one you have lifted)

these cup washers can have a nasty cropped edge which minces the plastic cup up in miuntes 

any new kit must be filled smooth befor you fit it 

if the main ball has worn that drops the stick below the reverse lock plate 

sound like that is whats going on   

if you can get to the pivot bolt under the ally housing you can get the whole stick out without the tunnel off 

ive seen tunnels  cut to get access to this sodding thing 

let us know what you find 

cant remeber if i replaced any of those bits  we need someone to manufacture the main ball from brass

not monkey plastic ( the very early cars were brass ) they used plastic to cut down noise 

and to add if the springs circlip jumps out the stick drops 

Pete

 

.

 

 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Paula said:

Worth checking with Canley Classics. I believe they assemble their own rebush kits because of te poor quality of those supplied by the trade. So should be better quality.

[Paul H]

A spare I recently purchased showing lower spring retainer 

Paul

[Paula]

Hopefully I can clean out the groove and re seat it.

 

[Pete Lewis]

i guess a run round with a hacksaw blade might give the groove a better locating shape 

thats if its jumped out 

and there is no Glass on the Coaster  !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and the idea of cutting the tunnel to gain access to the lower bolt is not as mad as it sounds 

i use /like Canley Classics  if their kit is better  !!!    ...need Dave to qualify that  

im sure he is well aware of the problems 

Pete

[Iain T]

On 09/03/2022 at 17:16, Paula said:

I think this is the way.
I'm now more worried they are too big.

Hi Paula, yes they might be! I've dug out the brackets and lamps that were fitted to my car. It's a two part assembly and requires two slots in the Ali grille. If you want to copy I could measure them or send to you. To be honest I'll probably never fit them so they could be on permanent loan! 

Iain 

[Paula]

4 hours ago, Iain T said:

Hi Paula, yes they might be! I've dug out the brackets and lamps that were fitted to my car. It's a two part assembly and requires two slots in the Ali grille. If you want to copy I could measure them or send to you. To be honest I'll probably never fit them so they could be on permanent loan! 

Iain 

That’s a very nice job!

[Paula]

The small spring on my gear knob had gone past the clip, which was still in the groove. 
I still have the old spring. If it does it again I’ll swap it out. 
Glad I didn’t pull the cover out to do it like I was going to!

[Pete Lewis]

then the spring sounds a bit oversize  

maybe compare with your spare one 

Pete

[Paula]

Hello!
I hope you're all well.
I've just picked up a door for £20 on eBay for Feargal. The other one is getting a bit shabby (See pictures)

I've rattle canned it in Cellulose and it's not too terrible. the cans were very dribbley and spitty!  What's a good next step? 1200 and then some polish?

 

[Clive]

2 hours ago, Paula said:

Hello!
I hope you're all well.
I've just picked up a door for £20 on eBay for Feargal. The other one is getting a bit shabby (See pictures)

I've rattle canned it in Cellulose and it's not too terrible. the cans were very dribbley and spitty!  What's a good next step? 1200 and then some polish?

 

Leave it for month to harden up. Hopefully you flatted it with 800 or fine before painting?

Once hard, an dhopefully any sinkage has happened, flat with 1500 or finer, with a bit of soap (as in a bar of soap) rubbed onto the paper. It lubricates and softens the abrasive. I am guessing you only got a few coats on? if so, don't go mad otherwise you will go through the paint.

Once flatted just enough, use G3 compound to remove the scratches. Then a final polish....

I find aerosols work so much better when nice and warm. Plus really important to shake them for ages, get the ball bearing moving and then a few more minutes of shaking to get the paint correctly mixed up. 

[Paula]

I did run it down before. There was a little rust spot that needed filling too. I forgot about the waiting a month. Glad I asked! 
Better do the rest of the car now.

I’ll let you know how it goes. 
cheers.

 

[Colin Lindsay]

10 hours ago, clive said:

I find aerosols work so much better when nice and warm. Plus really important to shake them for ages, get the ball bearing moving and then a few more minutes of shaking to get the paint correctly mixed up. 

It also depends a lot on the actual aerosol. I get paint made up at a local Motorfactors, it's about £10 - £12 for an aerosol of Triumph White, and it sprays everywhere. The primer - lovely tight pattern as it's usually just an off the shelf tin; the white, everywhere. Even the garage floor gets it.

[chrishawley]

12 hours ago, Paula said:

What's a good next step? 1200 and then some polish?

it's possible to get a very acceptable appearance out of rattle cans. But RC paint, being either cellulose or one-pack acrylic, is (by comparison to 2-pack) very slow drying, delicate and of minimal thickness.

1200 grit will rip up cellulose (or one pack acrylic). 1500/G3 is perhaps the maximum severity one could consider. Even conventional T-Cut, for all its feebleness, will polish down fresh celly quite markedly.

If you have a smidgen of paint left then it could be worth spraying a test piece and having a go on that first.

RC paint is delicate, proceed with caution.

[Clive]

3 minutes ago, chrishawley said:

it's possible to get a very acceptable appearance out of rattle cans. But RC paint, being either cellulose or one-pack acrylic, is (by comparison to 2-pack) very slow drying, delicate and of minimal thickness.

1200 grit will rip up cellulose (or one pack acrylic). 1500/G3 is perhaps the maximum severity one could consider. Even conventional T-Cut, for all its feebleness, will polish down fresh celly quite markedly.

If you have a smidgen of paint left then it could be worth spraying a test piece and having a go on that first.

RC paint is delicate, proceed with caution.

It has been a while since I used celly, for a reason. Just sprayed my Dolomite with 2k (for the 2nd time, first paint would not shine at all, poor batch I think, but the Jawel paint I have just used is fine) 2K is MUCH easier to work with, but that doesn't help Paula!

Thinking about it, with rattle cans I would probably use 1200 before painting for the final flatting, as the paint will not cope with any scratches. 

What may be worth getting is a tube of acrylic stopper. Very fine surface filler, brilliant for stonechips and small imperfections. I use this stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125141896200?hash=item1d2309cc08:g:BU0AAOSw1CRiBOnY

[mark powell]

Like the door mirror, looks quite rare? I had an Italian one a bit like that, never found another after snapping the stem in the garage...

[Pete Lewis]

just a pity its halfway down the door   yes it has to clear the NDV  but thats a bit rearward to my mind