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Looking for a spitfire


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6 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

low on the back end, dodgy spring? New seats, but seat foams need replacing

I had noticed the back end looks low, but I think I'm right that you can get sets of spacers to rebuild the spring which should sort this? Am I missing something about seat foams in the listing, or do you think they look bad in the pictures?

3 hours ago, Anglefire said:

Looks tatty. Doors look poorly filled and painted, engine rebuilt 800miles ago?

I know it looks a bit tatty (and probably looks better in the pictures than it actually is), but that doesn't really bother me. I'm much more after a car to drive than keep immaculate in a garage and look at! Don't get me wrong, one of the reasons I want a Spitfire in the first place is that I think they look fantastic, and I'd like to get one as tidy as possible but it's not one of my priorities. The doors do look to me in the pictures that they don't line up well, which maybe suggests that the sills were not replaced carefully? I suppose that would go along with the general consensus on here that it's a bit of a bodge job...

14 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

I like the look of the red one. Maybe unbutchered/not bodged?, unlike a lot over years. I would just T cut and polish and spruce up a bit to keep original and show/reflect it's previous life

I assume you mean the one that hasn't been on the road since 1988? (They're both red...) If so, I'm glad someone is in favour of it (potentially) as I rather like the idea of that one. Trouble is, I'm not particularly sure what it would be likely to need to get back on the road. Obviously oil, water, tyres, brakes checking, brake fluid, fuel system cleaning out. Not sure what else though? The seller says it starts and drives...

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It will need new brake hoses, water hoses and definitely R9 fuel hoses (not fromebay etc, you need to go to a specialist supplier if you want to be sure you are being sold genuine R9)

Quite probably some new brake hydraulics too. They don't like sitting unused for years.

Water pump may well be short lived.

All fluids will need replacing.

I bet a load of electrical connections will need cleaning up too, free and easy to do, but time consuming. Oh, allow for a battery too.

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12 hours ago, chris.eg said:

I had noticed the back end looks low, but I think I'm right that you can get sets of spacers to rebuild the spring which should sort this? Am I missing something about seat foams in the listing, or do you think they look bad in the pictures?

There may be broken leaves in the spring, certainly was on mine when I bought it. If not, it's sagging and you may be better off with a new one rather than trying spacers.

Foams. The side supports on the drivers seat are sagging. This is a sign that something's wrong inside. The seat foams crumble away and you wind up sitting on webbing. The ad says new seats, new to this car presumably. 

Also notice the hand brake seems set at a jaunty angle on the tunnel, is that right?

Doug 

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22 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Fibreglass bonnet and boot lid, some of it hand painted and low on the back end, dodgy spring? New seats, but seat foams need replacing. All shows a lack of doing the job properly, what lays hidden?  So it's a no from me!

Doug

There's a lot of overspray round that engine bay, even the alternator fan blades are coated - have they stayed in that position or are they all red? Compare it to the faded red paint in the 'bonnet open' shot. Definitely an aerosol can respray, and the hood appears to be held on with large washers. The door gaps also look very tight - poorly fitted sills? 

Engine might have been restored 800 miles ago but at how many miles per year since?

Not for me, either.

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https://m.facebook.com/groups/134271493433942?view=permalink&id=961985203995896 I feel this one might get more approval. It's a long way away, and more expensive than I was looking for, but probably wouldn't need much spending on it?

Anyway, planning on ringing the seller tonight (anything particular I should ask?) and probably going to see it at the weekend.

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.

Here are the details Colin:

FOR SALE

 

A much loved 1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500 in Original British Racing Green.  

Petrol;  Manual with Overdrive.

Owned since 1982 and driven daily until husband’s unexpected death in May.

The vehicle is Road Tax Exempt and has a valid MOT which expires April 2019.

Service history folder of MOT’s and receipts for parts and work done over the years.

Plus cream stowage cover, black tonneau cover and an unused replacement black soft hood cover.

Runs well but needs a little work on body but could be a nice winter project.

 

£3,250 ono.

3 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Is Franklin is involved? Worth getting her, or one of her area to meet you there.

Who is Franklin? I would be much happier looking at it with someone, but not sure anyone would be willing... should I ask Sue (devon AO) if she can think of someone?

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I'm planning to go and see it on Saturday (crossing fingers it's not sold by then) as I can see that this would likely end up costing me less in the long run than some of the cheaper ones and it seems that overdrive would definitely be worth having.

 

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Chris 

This is a better route to go as I said at the start to pay a little more for a better car than a cheaper one that needs unknown amounts of work and parts. you may well have to spend some more money but shouldn't be large amounts. good luck

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43 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

I wouldn't be waiting until the weekend.........

I don't want to wait that long either, but i don't really have much choice as I work quite long hours during the week, it's 3 1/2 hours away and I don't really want to look at in the dark...

I've spoken to the seller and was the first person to do so. With any luck she might hang on to it...

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I've bought it :)

I'll probably have loads of questions to ask on here, but the most pressing one is this:

To give it a proper test drive I had to go and put some fuel in. The seller said they thought it had been used on regular unleaded petrol, so that's what I put in. However, it then started to make a tinkling noise, sort of like tiny bits of metal being sprinkled on a hard surface (pinking?) I assume the seller was wrong and it had been used with higher octane fuel? So, how easy would it be to retard the timing a bit for the drive back (without too much risk of getting stuck...) or is it better to put in a fuel additive/put in better fuel? If possible, I would rather avoid a more expensive option, but obviously don't want to damage the engine on the way back.

Perhaps I'm on entirely the wrong track?

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no room in the tank to put a good bit of higher RON in. Tesco do a 99.

An octane booster additive, would help I imagine

Some dizzy's have a vernier gauge marked Adv/Ret by the adjusting wheel. Try 10 clicks retard to start with and see how it goes.

Dizzy easy to adjust if not. Its a clamp at the bottom, anti clockwise to retard. Try a few about 5 degrees to start with.

Good luck, dave

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Chris,

Yes Pinking. Always run with the highest grade you can. Does it have points or electronic? If points check the gap. With the engine hot turn the distributor or Vernier for max revs and back a gnats.  Take it for a run If pinking persists, back a little more. 

Doug

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You need a 7/16 spanner. Loosen the distributer clamp bolt and turn about 3mm on the outside anticlockwise. Try again, if it still pinks do the same again until it just stops.

I have never run my cars on anything but 95 octane with no ill effects. (OK, I used leaded petrol in the 80's and early 90's when it was std pump fuel) but always set timing using the above method. 

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