pirate Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 I bought the electronic distributor before reading a thread on this subject which recommended another type sold in the club shop. I fitted it as their instructions checking the coil readings with a multi meter to make sure the coil is compatible, all checked out. Instructions for fitting. turn engine to TDC with rotor pointing at No 1 remove old distributor and fit the new one, distributors with an off set key way can only be fitted in one position. Once fitted if the position of the rotor differs from the original this should be treated as No1 and cap leads should be fitted accordingly. I checked the distributor and the key is not off set, when I dropped it in the rotor was pointing at No 1. The car started but only running on 2 cylinders No's 2 & 3 I removed spark plugs 1 & 4 cleaned and checked for spark which they both had good spark. so I have been trying to work out what's wrong, It was on TDC pointing at No1 but I'm thinking now would it be on the firing stroke? Any thoughts welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 yes has to be firing stroke or youre 180deg out easy, stick thumb over plug hole turn engine by hand till air starts to escape , then wind on to TDC marks then check rotor pointing pete dont forget firing order is anticlockwise on the dizzy cap 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Have you tried swopping 1 and 4 leads around? At the cap is easier. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Not tried that Poppyman will give it a go tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted November 14, 2018 Report Share Posted November 14, 2018 Have you had any luck yet Pirate? Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate Posted November 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 I did try it, didn't seem to make any difference I have turned the engine over and put it on the timing marks, then re set the distributor to No 1. Then discovered that the fuel pipe under the car was leaking. ordered some kunifer pipe, will have another go when I've fitted the fuel pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 Are you sure it's not off-set? It's not usually by much, but makes a difference to the fit of the key. I had to nip out to the garage and grab a spare, possibly from a 6 cylinder so there may be a difference, but even with a very crude measurement it looked to be slightly under 2mm off-set. It is possible, and very easily too, to get the distributor 180 degrees out, even if you think it isn't. I trust yours is flush with the mounting? Top pic shows full mesh, lower pic shows 180 degrees out and so won't drop in properly to the drive. Try a 180 degree rotation of the rotor arm with the clamp fully released and then see if it drops down any further. Good or new O rings on the distributor can require a little bit of pressure before it drops fully into place; lubricate with a bit of engine oil to make things easier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 Don't know if it will help, but here is a picture (admittedly for a Delco D204 dizzy on a six cylinder set up) showing the relationship between the key off set and the rotor arm orientation, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate Posted November 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 I've not revisited the distributor problem yet, been reading your posts and will have another go next week, I've emailed the supplier to let them know I'm having problems so if it needs to go back they are aware. I have also bought a second hand points distributor thought if all else fails I could prove standard works also good to have a spare in the boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 You could have everything correct so I would also check the gap between the sensor and trigger in the new distributor. I assume this is adjustable and if not within specification could cause the misfiring youve described..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 I screwed up an accuspark unit by allowing the sensor and trigger to touch and that killed the unit . They did give me a replacement at a discounted priced I only found out the unit was dead when I fitted conventional points which worked Hope this helps Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 51 minutes ago, Paul H said: I screwed up an accuspark unit by allowing the sensor and trigger to touch and that killed the unit Really? That strikes me as bad design. They should cater for the basic errors that a normal user would make. 51 minutes ago, Paul H said: They did give me a replacement at a discounted priced So kind! To be fair, I've not heard particularly good reports from Accuspark......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 The instructions say the sensor and trigger must not touch and in my case as they were touching then friction cooked the unit Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 I don't doubt that is what the instructions say Paul, doesn't mean they should be so fragile though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 30, 2018 Report Share Posted November 30, 2018 yes it mustnt be run with the trigger hitting the sensor but also the gap cant be too big as then the magnetic pulses might not be strong enough. I believe its just possible that with a certain gap the triggering might be intermittent so firing some cylinders and not others..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate Posted December 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2018 I had another fiddle with it, checking the distributor was all the way home in its drive, wires checked and timing. Started to doubt the electronic distributor so bought a second hand points distributor, I was looking for one to carry as a spare in the boot anyway. Fitted it today again checking the wiring dia to make sure I had it set up right, checked timing. A bit of a turn on the distributor while turning engine over and it fired up, running on 3 cylinders, pulled the plug leads off to find out which wasn't firing and its No1. took No 1 plug out wet with petrol, wound it over and good spark at the plug, re fitted still not firing. I had noticed when I tried to rev the engine It was struggling, even just firing on 3 cylinders I would expect it to. Can't work out why it's not firing on No 1. I think the reason it's not reving is down to dirt in the carburettor, I took the top off the fuel pump and the filter and bowl below had crud in it. I replaced the metal fuel line the other week, but blew it through with the airline before connecting it. Car had run out of fuel because of the leaking fuel pipe, so I'm assuming crud got into the fuel system. Any thoughts welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 Lets go back a stage, how was it running on the old dizzy ?? Cylinder misfires can be anything from a failed spark plug, tight valve clearances, jumped push rod, head gasket, valve seat And so on , but changing the dizzy should not induce any new running changes There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years Do makes sure that there is no R in the plug sufix numbers Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 Hi Pete, could you refesh my memory banks and tell me why we should not use resistor plugs? I know we should'nt, but cant remember why? Thanks, Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years More than "some ideas". I've had two sets of NGKs fail that way in the GT6 - no visible indication of fault. Pete Baldwin (the rolling road guru) confirmed that he's also seen it with recent NGKs on (very) rich-running engines. In my experience, it's not tended to be a total refuse-to-start failure but a persistent misfire at low speed. Modern cars probably never subject the plugs to the conditions that cause this, so it's not a problem in the manufacturer's eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 theres always some fors and against the Problems with R resistive plugs , some say it make no difference, i use my experience in every car that turn up with me for running problems gets solve when you throw the things away and fit EG NGK. straight BPES in place of BPRES my conclusions were the Resistive are designed for modern HT systems with around 32kv and used on our old 22Kv is like sticking a cork in the HT line they just dont work well if you love em carry on , but I will stick to the Basics and use what God intended ( specified) always does what it says on the tin Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate Posted December 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Lets go back a stage, how was it running on the old dizzy ?? Cylinder misfires can be anything from a failed spark plug, tight valve clearances, jumped push rod, head gasket, valve seat And so on , but changing the dizzy should not induce any new running changes There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years Do makes sure that there is no R in the plug sufix numbers Pete Hi Pete, The car had an electronic distributor when I got it, ran fine, the car has been off the road about two years as it needed major repairs to the body work and floors. I kept starting it and was ok. Came to start it one day and nothing, my grandson had been playing in it and left the ignition on, should have taken the key out. Im currently re building the car. No spark at plugs, did a search and read that if the ignition is left on it can burn the do dar out in the distributor. Bought new Accuspark and it's not run right since. The car had run out of petrol due to a leaking fuel pipe under the car, fitted a new kunifer pipe, put 2 gallon of petrol in got the car to start with new distributor but only running on 3 cylinders, it won't rev up which I would expect it to even running on 3. Before I read the latest replys to the post, I have removed the carburettor and taken the fuel bowl off, It's full of crud and what appears to be sand. So going to order a service kit for it while it's off. Perhaps I should have swapped spark plugs to see if No 1 cylinder would fire. Reading the posts not sure what plugs to go for, it's currently got Champion. Thanks for all your replies. Will be another job less when the carb has been re built the choke and throttle have always been stiff will fit an inline fuel filter too. Im rushing to get the car somewhere Nr as I have to go for another opp in the New Year so that will be another 6 weeks of not being able to do anything :( I'm determined to get the car back on the road for spring! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 45 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: theres always some fors and against the Problems with R resistive plugs , some say it make no difference, i use my experience in every car that turn up with me for running problems gets solve when you throw the things away and fit EG NGK. straight BPES in place of BPRES my conclusions were the Resistive are designed for modern HT systems with around 32kv and used on our old 22Kv is like sticking a cork in the HT line they just dont work well if you love em carry on , but I will stick to the Basics and use what God intended ( specified) always does what it says on the tin Pete Thanks Pete, I have a quantity of both from when i had my garage, so untill i get desperate i will continue using the non resistor Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 if the ign a been left on you may have stuffed the HT Coil , that doesnt explain 1 particular pot not firing but do test you get good fat spark crack from the coil HT lead . at least 1/2" if held close to the block. unless you need short reach plugs champion N9Y are fine some are N9/7Y ( wider ranged) NGK BP6ES are often used . dont remember . have you swapped the plugs around ?? can you get a compression test done ? that proves out the combustion process Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 7, 2018 Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 Tony.............. getting desperate................that happens a lot as the years click by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pirate Posted December 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2018 9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: if the ign a been left on you may have stuffed the HT Coil , that doesnt explain 1 particular pot not firing but do test you get good fat spark crack from the coil HT lead . at least 1/2" if held close to the block. unless you need short reach plugs champion N9Y are fine some are N9/7Y ( wider ranged) NGK BP6ES are often used . dont remember . have you swapped the plugs around ?? can you get a compression test done ? that proves out the combustion process Pete Fitted new coil, no didn't swap plugs around only thought about it while typing my last post Doh. Cant do much now while the carb is in bits kit should be here next week. I can probably borrow a compression tester. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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