Jump to content

Accuspark electronic ignition


pirate
 Share

Recommended Posts

I bought the electronic distributor before reading a thread on this subject which recommended another type sold in the club shop.

I fitted it as their instructions checking the coil readings with a multi meter to make sure the coil is compatible, all checked out.

Instructions for fitting.

turn engine to TDC with rotor pointing at No 1 remove old distributor and fit the new one, distributors with an off set key way can only be fitted in one position. Once fitted if the position of the rotor differs from the original this should be treated as No1 and cap leads should be fitted accordingly.

I checked the distributor and the key is not off set, when I dropped it in the rotor was pointing at No 1.

The car started but only running on 2 cylinders No's 2 & 3 I removed spark plugs 1 & 4 cleaned and checked for spark which they both had good spark.

so I have been trying to work out what's wrong, It was on TDC pointing at No1 but I'm thinking now would it be on the firing stroke?

Any thoughts welcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did try it, didn't seem to make any difference I have turned the engine over and put it on the timing marks, then re set the distributor to No 1. Then discovered that the fuel pipe under the car was leaking.

ordered some kunifer pipe, will have another go when I've fitted the fuel pipe.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Are you sure it's not off-set? It's not usually by much, but makes a difference to the fit of the key. I had to nip out to the garage and grab a spare, possibly from a 6 cylinder so there may be a difference, but even with a very crude measurement it looked to be slightly under 2mm off-set. It is possible, and very easily too, to get the distributor 180 degrees out, even if you think it isn't. I trust yours is flush with the mounting? Top pic shows full mesh, lower pic shows 180 degrees out and so won't drop in properly to the drive. Try a 180 degree rotation of the rotor arm with the clamp fully released and then see if it drops down any further. Good or new O rings on the distributor can require a little bit of pressure before it drops fully into place; lubricate with a bit of engine oil to make things easier.

Distright.JPG.2940eef2475a09bf71709528b1bb4643.JPG

Distwrong.JPG.33d56c935a807fac9dda9761b7fdb65c.JPG

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've not revisited the distributor problem yet, been reading your posts and will have another go next week, I've emailed the supplier to let them know I'm having problems so if it needs to go back they are aware.

I have also bought a second hand points distributor thought if all else fails I could prove standard works also good to have a spare in the boot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I screwed up an accuspark unit by allowing the sensor and trigger to touch and that killed the unit . They did give me a replacement at a discounted priced 

I only found out the unit was dead when I fitted conventional points which worked 

Hope this helps 

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, Paul H said:

I screwed up an accuspark unit by allowing the sensor and trigger to touch and that killed the unit

Really? That strikes me as bad design. They should cater for the basic errors that a normal user would make. 

51 minutes ago, Paul H said:

They did give me a replacement at a discounted priced

So kind! 

To be fair, I've not heard particularly good reports from Accuspark......... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes it mustnt be run with the trigger hitting the sensor but also the gap cant be too big as then the magnetic pulses might not be strong enough. I believe its just possible that with a certain gap the triggering might be intermittent so firing some cylinders and not others..... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had another fiddle with it, checking the distributor was all the way home in its drive, wires checked and timing.

Started to doubt the electronic distributor so bought a second hand points distributor, I was looking for one to carry as a spare in the boot anyway.

Fitted it today again checking the wiring dia to make sure I had it set up right, checked timing.

A bit of a turn on the distributor while turning engine over and it fired up, running on 3 cylinders, pulled the plug leads off to find out which wasn't firing and its No1.

took No 1 plug out wet with petrol, wound it over and good spark at the plug, re fitted still not firing.

I had noticed when I tried to rev the engine It was struggling, even just firing on 3 cylinders I would expect it to.

Can't work out why it's not firing on No 1.

I think the reason it's not reving is down to dirt in the carburettor, I took the top off the fuel pump and the filter and bowl below had crud in it. I replaced the metal fuel line the other week, but blew it through with the airline before connecting it.

Car had run out of fuel because of the leaking fuel pipe, so I'm assuming crud got into the fuel system.

Any thoughts welcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lets go back a stage, how was it running on the old dizzy ??  

Cylinder misfires can be anything from a failed spark plug, tight valve clearances, jumped push rod, head gasket, valve seat

And so on ,  but    changing the dizzy should not induce any  new  running changes 

There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire  never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years

Do  makes sure that there is no R in the plug sufix numbers 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire  never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years

More than "some ideas". I've had two sets of NGKs fail that way in the GT6 - no visible indication of fault. Pete Baldwin (the rolling road guru) confirmed that he's also seen it with recent NGKs on (very) rich-running engines. In my experience, it's not tended to be a total refuse-to-start failure but a persistent misfire at low speed. Modern cars probably never subject the plugs to the conditions that cause this, so it's not a problem in the manufacturer's eyes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

theres always some fors and against the Problems with R  resistive plugs , some say it make no difference, i use my experience in every car that turn up with me for running problems gets solve when you throw the things away and fit  EG NGK.  straight BPES  in place of BPRES

my conclusions were the Resistive are designed for modern HT systems with around 32kv  and used on our old 22Kv is like sticking a cork in the HT line   they just dont work well 

if you love em  carry on  , but I will stick to the Basics and use what  God intended ( specified)     always does what it says on the tin

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Lets go back a stage, how was it running on the old dizzy ??  

Cylinder misfires can be anything from a failed spark plug, tight valve clearances, jumped push rod, head gasket, valve seat

And so on ,  but    changing the dizzy should not induce any  new  running changes 

There is some ideas forming that lately good plugs once wet or have a misfire  never recover, ive seen more duff plugs in the last year than the previous 70 years

Do  makes sure that there is no R in the plug sufix numbers 

Pete

Hi Pete, The car had an electronic distributor when I got it, ran fine, the car has been off the road about two years as it needed major repairs to the body work and floors. I kept starting it and was ok. Came to start it one day and nothing, my grandson had been playing in it and left the ignition on, should have taken the key out.

Im currently re building the car.

No spark at plugs, did a search and read that if the ignition is left on it can burn the do dar out in the distributor.

Bought new Accuspark and it's not run right since.

The car had run out of petrol due to a leaking fuel pipe under the car, fitted a new kunifer pipe, put 2 gallon of petrol in got the car to start with new distributor but only running on 3 cylinders, it won't rev up which I would expect it to even running on 3.

Before I read the latest replys to the post, I have removed the carburettor and taken the fuel bowl off, It's full of crud and what appears to be sand. So going to order a service kit for it while it's off.

Perhaps I should have swapped spark plugs to see if No 1 cylinder would fire. Reading the posts not sure what plugs to go for, it's currently got Champion. 

Thanks for all your replies.

Will be another job less when the carb has been re built the choke and throttle have always been stiff will fit an inline fuel filter too.

Im rushing to get the car somewhere Nr as I have to go for another opp in the New Year so that will be another 6 weeks of not being able to do anything :( I'm determined to get the car back on the road for spring! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

theres always some fors and against the Problems with R  resistive plugs , some say it make no difference, i use my experience in every car that turn up with me for running problems gets solve when you throw the things away and fit  EG NGK.  straight BPES  in place of BPRES

my conclusions were the Resistive are designed for modern HT systems with around 32kv  and used on our old 22Kv is like sticking a cork in the HT line   they just dont work well 

if you love em  carry on  , but I will stick to the Basics and use what  God intended ( specified)     always does what it says on the tin

Pete

Thanks Pete, I have a quantity of both from when i had my garage, so untill i get desperate i will continue using the non resistor :) 

Tony.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if the ign a been left on  you may have stuffed the HT Coil  , that doesnt explain 1 particular pot not firing but do test you get  good fat spark  crack from the coil HT lead .  at least 1/2" if held close to the block. 

unless you need short reach plugs champion N9Y are fine some are N9/7Y ( wider  ranged)

NGK BP6ES  are often  used .

dont remember . have you swapped the plugs around ??

can you get a compression test done  ?  that proves out the   combustion process

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

if the ign a been left on  you may have stuffed the HT Coil  , that doesnt explain 1 particular pot not firing but do test you get  good fat spark  crack from the coil HT lead .  at least 1/2" if held close to the block. 

unless you need short reach plugs champion N9Y are fine some are N9/7Y ( wider  ranged)

NGK BP6ES  are often  used .

dont remember . have you swapped the plugs around ??

can you get a compression test done  ?  that proves out the   combustion process

Pete

 

Fitted new coil, no didn't swap plugs around only thought about it while typing my last post Doh.

Cant do much now while the carb is in bits kit should be here next week.

I can probably borrow a compression tester.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...