Guppy916 Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 I used running in oil and buggered the cam , on the rebuild I used millers 20/50 I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Im all for use some proper stuff , and change it after a few thousand, the days of running in oils are historic, why use cheapo to bed everything down , you need oil with some good body in my book treat the engine with steady care is more important with some long hot steady runs cruising at varying speeds for a few hours . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Well for running in the oil doesnt want to be too good so definitely no synthetics or additives.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Recommisioned mine with Wilkinsons 20/50. Appears ok, but just about to change to Classic Oils Heritage 20/50 which has a much higher zinc content and is well recommended by many on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Hello Mark I can not remember if its a new cam and followers? If not just use Morris or similar as it is only the bores you are bedding down and change after 500 miles max Have you lubed the shells with graphagen or similar? Do not idle to much or bores will glaze(I am a firm believer of on and off the throttle to decent revs but not load) no slogging up hills hold lower gears to bed in quicker. Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Cam is not new - was 12months or so ago. Only the bores to bed in - so I've got some Halfords Classic to go in for the first few hundred miles. £21 I think it was for a 5ltr tin. I will follow your advice Roger regarding the revs and labouring I've only loctited in the rocker grub screw tonight, refitting the drain plug with a new fibre washer and fitted the new pump to heater pipe - had to drill the hole on the bracket to a larger size and bend it to shape to fit over the manifold studs - which I also fitted tonight. Which is where I've stopped for the evening - because I think I've found the reason for the poor inlet sealing - the face of the inlet manifold is not flat. Just got to work out now how to make it so.... As it seems to be bent where the two upper clamp fit. Odd. Doesn't need much taking off it. probably 25thou or so. My dad does have a wheel grinder - but I don't know if alloy will knacker it up. I'll have to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Sheet of flat glass and a sheet of wet and dry oiled , Carefully work the manifold without tilt , dont want any wonky rubbing Or find a friend with a mill ive seen a B&D planner used , on alloy, with a very shallow cut Service witha file !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 On 26/03/2019 at 07:34, Pete Lewis said: Sheet of flat glass and a sheet of wet and dry oiled , for 0.025"...….?! That'll keep him out of mischief for a while! I have a rasp file (intended for aluminium) that I use for such missions. Could try tapping the ears back into line with a copper/hide mallet first maybe? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 we dont do 'Quick' ha !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 3 hours ago, Nick Jones said: for 0.025"...….?! That'll keep him out of mischief for a while! I have a rasp file (intended for aluminium) that I use for such missions. Could try tapping the ears back into line with a copper/hide mallet first maybe? Nick I have a copper hammer - I did wonder about a tap with it. And a rasp file I think. Somewhere..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 2 hours ago, Anglefire said: I have a copper hammer - I did wonder about a tap with it Care needed, and careful inspection for cracks before and during any bashing - no lugs worse then bent lugs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 I’ve not used the hammer. I’ve just used some 100grit paper on a flat plate and got it pretty flat now. I'll take a picture later. Well tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 As promised a picture. Not long before it was fitted to the car. Together with the carbs. Just got to find the choke cable clamp that isn’t in the plastic box I put the reset of the carb elements in 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 I should also say, that before it went on, all the muck and bullets was cleaned out with some brake cleaner and wiped clean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 And another solution to the variety of gasket air leaks that can plague an engine Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Oil and water added tonight. Turned the engine to top dead tonight, removed the dizzy and pump drive and span up the pump. Plenty of pressure developed - oil light went out nice and easy. But I still have a pressure oddity. I also think I know what it is. I think it’s the oil pressure relief valve. I think it opens and doesn’t drop back again. No idea how to fix that one. The valve and spring is new. Doesn’t seem to catch anywhere in the bore. A conundrum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Hello Mark It could be the seating in the block that is faulty? If it was a bare block I would say re seat it or lap it in but on a complete engine those options are not available. Just try and have a good look at the seat and try and clean it the best you can plus polish the plunger so there is no ridges to catch. Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 So what happens does a spin with a drill generate enough to open the prv ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 27 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: So what happens does a spin with a drill generate enough to open the prv ?? Pete Very much so. Pressure was well up on the gauge! Light went out on a fairly slow spin. What happened is this: Pressure went up - over 60psi - then the oil rose up the dizzy housing at the same time as it started to gurgle. Pressure dropped. Same speed of the drill and it stayed around 30/40psi. I will whip out the PRV and see if I can detect any sort of binding - it has to be that - though fixing without major work is going to be interesting - but as @rogerguzzi says a good clean might be enough (Though I thought I'd done that - but thought is a powerful word!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 while the relief valve is out stick a 14mm twist drill in the hole and give it a few twists by hand to clean the valve seat, mine is 14mm on a 2.5 yours might be different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 I fitted the fan belt and set the tappets. Fitted the choke cable with a new clamp - ordered thursday night and arrived today from Ebay £1.89 - perfect fit. I then pulled the PRV - and I can feel nothing wrong with it - I have a shortened drill and used that and again the seat feels fine. There is a fair suction to pull the valve out - but I take that as a good sign TBH! Pushing it back in feels ok - doesn't seem to drag - I guess it doesn't actually come out that much? Any one know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Had a very busy week at work this week and not getting home before 6 most days after leaving at 6:30 - so not had the time/inclination to go into the garage. And today I picked up my new modern and had to go into brum- so didn’t get much time until this evening after tea. I checked the timing and refitted the plugs. Cranked over the engine and it fired up after a few turns due to the carbs being empty! didn’t run too great - and cut out. Wouldn’t restart as the battery was basically flat and flooded But about 5 minutes on my 25A charger and it was back up to a decent charge and this time it fired up much better - needed a fair bit of choke and the exhaust manifold is smoking badly due to the oil that is over it. But that will clear idle to too low and needs adjusting and the carbs tuning though I take that as a good sign as it was running with the idle screws almost fully out. Im hoping to get it on the road for a short drive tomorrow before I do some work but it runs and runs sweet 😁 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted April 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 And I've now been around the block in it this morning - runs very nicely - started on the button. Still needs to be tuned etc, but does feel very nice. Seems to need a lot less throttle pressure to increase speed - though that could just be me being used to the modern! Work now beacons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted April 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 Not been out again in the car, but thought I would just add a little to this as I had a clean up in the garage last weekend and got rid of a load of stuff down the tip as I was running out of room! When I put all the bits back together onto the car, I couldn't find the choke clamp - wasn't where I remember putting it - I'd put all the various bits in their own plastic box so they were all together - its only taken me about 30years to learn that trick - the one I previously bought didn't fit as it was too big, so I went onto eBay and found the part on their for less than a couple of quid and bought it - actually for a Mini! Duly arrived and fitted perfectly So back to the clear up - I had put the old oil pump on a large plastic tray (meant to be for putting grow bags on I think!) - and was just tidying that up and lo and behold, there was the original clamp! Have no recollection of putting it there whatsoever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 Ha always tie 3ft cotton onto small easy lost clips , youmget tangled in the cordsnbut alway find A clip..never the right one Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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