Anglefire Posted March 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 I don’t think Chris does a pump for the Spitfire. I’m going to try and blue print mine and see how it goes. I have the old one still - but that is not in good condition. Though i still have to take the measurements of the body to outer and outer to star yet. If they are out then the pump is pretty much scrap - which will be disappointing to say the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 it's worth an email his part number is 217488RP this is for a GT6, they could be the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 1 hour ago, Guppy916 said: they could be the same They aren't. 6 pot ones are larger capacity and have a different drive shaft. I'm not sure if the bolt pattern is the same (might be possible to swap the shaft if it is). If the rotor to star-ring and ring to body dimensions are ok then end-float is easy to correct. If they are out then you need a new one. And you need to measure new ones too and send back any that are out of tolerance (and KEEP doing it until you get one that is in tolerance!) Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Not wanting to piss on anyone's party, but have you glaze busted the bores before fitting the new pistons ? If you haven't, it has the potential to drink oil at a rate that would make Oliver Reed look teetotal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Hi Kevin yes glaze is busted 😁 bought a triple legged drill mounted jobby. Worked quite well to be fair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 out of interest how long did it take to do each bore and whats the procedure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 21 hours ago, Nick Jones said: And you need to measure new ones too and send back any that are out of tolerance (and KEEP doing it until you get one that is in tolerance!) As Nick say's my first new one was so far out, almost as bad as the one I took out of the engine, thats where Mr Witor joined the party Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 I have a new one in my box of bits (it came with a job lot of 6 cylinder parts) which has now twice been bounced in favour of used ones which had far better clearances. I should probably sling it out...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 1 hour ago, johny said: out of interest how long did it take to do each bore and whats the procedure? Well, I watched a YouTube video to get the principle! Essentially, you have a bucket of water and some 10-30 oil. Wet the stones in the water initially and just shake/damp off the excess water. Oil the stones (I put it in a small cup actually and dipped them in. Put the device in the bore on a drill and turn it on (I'd set the pressure to be not too firm) Quite quickly go up and down the bore with the stones rotating to aim to get the 45deg look on the bores. (It's not easy!) After every 30 up/downs remove the stones and put in the water - turn the drill on (Not too fast - you have been warned!) to wash the stones of the resultant paste of ground stone and metal. Damp off the water and re-oil the stones. Repeat until you are satisfied. I did this about 3 times per bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 good to know thanks, I might have a go at that one day..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 On 11/03/2019 at 22:03, johny said: Looks like the angled one is supposed to give improved 'oil pick up performance' and the suction pipe certainly looks longer than the older type. There has been reports of replacement pumps having poor clearances from new and yours does sound a bit on the big side (how are the other two measurements?) but dont forget the pressure relief valve is supposed to open at 45 - 55psi. In fact the PRV is something else to check as it could be stuck open or its spring weakened..... Finally measured the other two dimensions tonight - both in spec - around 2.5thou. And I've blueprinted it now and taken off a couple of thou off the body and is now at about 2.5thou - slightly more as its a easy fit, but can't get the next size feeler in. Happy with that, Least I can now get the pump in and refit the sump. Once the head is also back on, I'll take the dizzy out and prime the pump and see what it does.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Little bit of Vaseline (not grease) helps the priming process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Yes I’ve read that before. Pretty much pack it is seems from some sites. The tr6 one particularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Refitted the head, rocker shaft and water pump, thermostat housing tonight. One thing I did notice when I fitted the rocker (Its one I fitted some while ago - new with bushed rockers etc.) the grub screw was loose at the end of the shaft - I assume this should be tight? But should it be locktighted in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 I would loctite it you don’t want it coming undone and falling out 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 That was my thought. But should it be tight or is it just to plug the hole at the end to keep the oil in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Tight 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Seem to remember there was some sort of crush washer shown on parts diagram (for Vit) for screw. I used loctite and did up tight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Have a look here https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-cylinder-head 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 There was a cone external star washer 500995 Loctite should be fine bear in mind there are many ranges of loctite with varying properties Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 243 seems to be the one (One of probably) as its oil resistant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Whilst waiting for the delivery of the Loctite today, I refitted the oil pump and sump last night. Im also waiting for the water drain plug fibre washer so I can refit that plug. It’s something that doesn’t come in any of the top or bottom gasket sets. Slightly annoying for a 20p item. I’ve also got to fit the new heater pipe from the pump to the heater pipes though noticed that there isn’t a swage on the end where the pipes clamp - the old one did though that didn’t have the bracket to bolt it to the manifold- hence why I’m changing it. Dont know how much I’ll get done this weekend a i have to work ( depressing I know) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Another question. What oil should I use for it’s first run? Running in oil? Or just something like Halfords classic oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 1 hour ago, Anglefire said: What oil should I use for it’s first run? Running in oil? Or just something like Halfords classic oil? I'd go with something cheap and cheerful like Halfords or even Comma classic. It'll provide enough lubrication for the hundred miles or so that it's going to be in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Thanks NonMember. That’s what I was thinking tbh. I was just having a moment of doubt whilst I was waiting for a firmware upgrade to occur. 😂 having another one now 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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