Jeffds1360 Posted June 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Thanks Johnny and Pete. I've got to say that after over 50 years of driving I have got into and controlled many a skid. I did some rallying in the 1970s. My problem is leg strength and possibly laziness, having had servo and power steering for the last 30-40 years! Buying this car is a big step back (or forward) for me but it is also my choice what I do to my car. I dislike abs and traction control and most other 'modern ' additions. All the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 there are some cars with electric power steering column which works well , as for servo shop around the kit is a universal and fits everything , it is not dedicated to any make just a box of unit some hose some pipe and a bracket............ prices vary a lot . pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: there are some cars with electric power steering column which works well I almost bought a Fiat a few years back, but power steering wasn't working... owner claimed it just needed the fluid topping up and offered to throw in a free tin. Problem is that it was an electric system... But that sort of system just works off an electric motor geared to the steering column: http://simonebirchall.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Dougs got one in his area Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: Dougs got one in his area Pete WHICH area? Does it affect his steering? Or just his column? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Guys, do you mind if I keep using this thread for my queries? Let me know if I should go to the relevant section and start a new one. I'll be doing that any way with a 'history/rebuild/repair when I get it sorted anyway So.... got my refurbish kit and started to replace bits. Cheated really and just did knob off and bayonet fitting removed and took off all the bits. Cir-clip popped of no problem. New bottom spring on, NEW cir-clip on and the rest. Nice and tight, all greased up, 1,2,3 &4 slick and easy. Pushed down for reverse nice and gently... oh not quite getting pin below plate.... push a bit harder... PING.... cir-clip pops out of groove!!! Bugger... had a look at gear stick and the groove is shamfered!!! (is the stop plate adjustable a bit upwards?) I degreased the groove, twisted the cir-clip and...still ping, every time you press down a touch too hard, off she pops Do I need a new stick or can you maybe cut a deeper groove and pinch the cir-clip? Also, the new nylon ball was far too tight to push down the shaft so I used the solid old one for the moment, should I ream it out or just force it on. Help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 I had the same problem with my GT6 a while back. The groove in the gearstick can get damaged by bad fitting but there's also a problem with some of the after-market circlips being too loose, having rounded edges, not being properly tempered (so they distort permanently rather than springing in properly) and other such evils. I fixed mine by pinching the circlip, although I may have also taken a file to the groove to clean the upper edge a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: servo just reduces the pedal effort it will not improve the foundation braking , you just push less cheapest upgrade is to add a bigger pedal pad , can make an amazing difference Pete Not heard of this one, are you saying make the area your foot makes contact with on the pedal larger? Interesting idea, the feel through your foot would / could be different and would / might / should lead you to press harder? Is there room though? I have on odd times ended up pressing both brake and accelerator pedals together. To prevent this I try and wear narrow shoes 😊 I will get out my tape measure and do a bit of head scratching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Spitfire pedals are larger than Herald pedals, but as you say, it limits the space between and you can inadvertently press two at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Jeff, Some people are anti servo, I don't know why. Triumph had them as standard on many models and they were a factory fitted option on others, my own car, the GT6, they were an option until the last year of production when they became a standard fitting. I wouldn't be without mine, yes it doesn't improve braking, but it takes away that OMG!!! moment when you realise it's not the same as your modern. If you want to dramatically improve braking buy Mintex 11/44 pads, expensive, but a dramatic improvement. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Is this a thread hijack? I am, at the moment, not interested in a servo, power steering or electric help or.... bigger pedals! What I am trying to get is is information on some fairly minor repairs that I have to do to get my 'new to me 1360' back on the road safely. I'm willing to start another thread but as I seem to have a fair bit of attention here, from SOME very knowledgeable members, I was hoping to keep MY thread concentrated on MY problems and not fantasize about future modifications. Thank you Sorry... this damn machine is doing my head, wallet and patience in it was not this hard in the '60s AND... even sorrier to Doug who replied whilst I was typing ... nice one Doug, I'll look at them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Yes, good quality pads -- heck, just NEW pads instead of old, glazed ones -- make a world of difference to braking. Also, general maintenance things like adjusting and bleeding, which have often been neglected for many years on a new-to-you car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Chris A said: Not heard of this one, are you saying make the area your foot makes contact with on the pedal larger? Interesting idea, the feel through your foot would / could be different and would / might / should lead you to press harder? Is there room though? I have on odd times ended up pressing both brake and accelerator pedals together. To prevent this I try and wear narrow shoes 😊 I will get out my tape measure and do a bit of head scratching. I am reminded of the GT6 car SOS episode where Fuzz and BIG Tim drove Andy Cook's GT6. Tim's feet were so big he had to take his shoes off to operate the pedals. He also made the cardinal mistake of leaving his shoes with the crew while he drove. Sorry for the drift, I can't keep a funny story in. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 20 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said: Is this a thread hijack? I am, at the moment, not interested in a servo, power steering or electric help or.... bigger pedals! What I am trying to get is is information on some fairly minor repairs that I have to do to get my 'new to me 1360' back on the road safely. I'm willing to start another thread but as I seem to have a fair bit of attention here, from SOME very knowledgeable members, I was hoping to keep MY thread concentrated on MY problems and not fantasize about future modifications. Thank you Sorry... this damn machine is doing my head, wallet and patience in it was not this hard in the '60s AND... even sorrier to Doug who replied whilst I was typing ... nice one Doug, I'll look at them You'll soon get use to thread drift, it happens all the time - put it down to the fact that some of us are a bit old and can't concentrate for too long on one subject. Don't worry though it usually gets back on line - just give it a kick if necessary. 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Thanks Chris. I'll get used to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Never mind all my little mechanical problems (which I am well on top of) I also had reproofed the hood and thought it looked good...until...what a rainstorm we had this afternoon!!!. Poured straight in..soaked whole interior. Spotted some pinprick size holes and a pinhead size one too but the whole hood is soaked in and out. Bloody mess. I'll dry it out in garage and re-reproof it but probably need a new one. Where is best? Rimmer? Here is a pic of o/d wiring all the red wires. Fed from coil. ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Oh Lord. That's a bit... aftermarket. The relay isn't an original, so may make it harder to identify terminals, and the wires are all the same colour, so you may have fun tracing which is which. It is correctly fed from from the SW terminal on the coil, I've been trying to find a photo of the standard setup for you but no go so far, but I have found a coloured schematic that may illustrate where the wires go from the relay; he's added a warning light but otherwise it's as the factory manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 OMG that's a right unprofessional mess needs some serious re route and tidy up' as for hood dont forget your club shop ( think they are Don hoods ) mohair is best , vinyl do shrink pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Thanks Colin. I'll get it tidied up and traced sometime but at the moment my priority is the roof. Do these re-proofers really work? Probably only for a few months! and not at all in really heavy rain. Even a brand new one would struggle with what we had 10 minutes of! It's in my garage now, drying out My 'modern car's is on drive suffering the storm, it's never been wet before Thanks to you too Pete, you came in whilst I was typeing Edited June 27, 2020 by Jeffds1360 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 10 hours ago, Jeffds1360 said: Do these re-proofers really work? Not if you have 'holes' which seems to be the reported case your honour. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 would a black silicone sealer fill and blend in/over the pin holes , or if its so bad use a ROLLER there is stuff like vinylcote is that any good Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Cheers guys. Vinegar and brown paper might fix it Not in the mood today, it's pouring down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: would a black silicone sealer fill and blend in/over the pin holes , or if its so bad use a ROLLER I was just about to post that.... sounds like a plan. A light dab on a fingertip pressed into any pinholes would certainly seal them. 19 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said: Cheers guys. Vinegar and brown paper might fix it Vinegar and brown paper - BEST brown paper - is only for dodgy knees. You could try an outdoor cover if the car has to live outdoors, but beware the cheaper variety such as LIDL, they actually attract water and then trap it inside the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 sorry about the rain we have sun and 12 cars on a tootle today there are advantages of a tin top covers some are dust covers some are shower resistant or then theres fully proofed you can get cockpit or full car but none are brilliant and wet and flapping can destroy paint under a cover , as the hoods are not intended to be full weather proof , a decent cockpit cover keeps rain from filling the floors and doesnt rub on the paintwork none seem to have a decent gutter above the door glass ,TR7 look better at that ,but in their day H, V and S ...they just keep rain off the occupants pin holes is a addition feature Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 The seller threw in a very classy car cover, a Polco fully waterproof multi layered with soft cotton lining with an air vent flap at windscreen level. Maybe I can wrap that on and use a periscope for driving about in How do I get to the retaining plate at the front for the roof webbing? I think I will be able to see the plate at the rear.once I remove the 'head cloth retaining strip' I guess this is the chrome bit with popper studs on. Webbing is shot! Is seat belt webbing ok to use? Sun has come out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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