Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Seat belt is perfect, I have some salted away for my own convertible. The retaining brackets are available new if yours are badly rusted; but mark where they go and if you can keep the old webbing intact as a reference it will be so much easier on reassembly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Great, thanks Colin. My main question is 'how do you access the front webbing plates?' they look like they may be under a substantial bit of trim and I do not want to damage the whole front to windscreen seal!! Grateful if anyone can point me the right way, neither Haynes or workshop manual (1969!) give any detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 At the front, the rubber seal to the top of the windscreen frame runs along the entire bottom of the main front header; you'll need to pull the seal out then unscrew the metal trim that it sits in. This will enable you to peel the hood material back and you'll see the two foremost webbing clips rivetted to the front of the rail. It may be possible to get at them by peeling the hood forward thereby not having to remove it from the header rail assembly but I've never tried that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted June 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 Gotcha Colin. Great information. I thought that would be it. I hate removing old seals! They crack up and may need replacement. I'll go at it very gently. I have small chromed trims on each end, do these just prise off? Got my bonnet lined up today and rear seat squab out and rain water removed. Next is new diaphragm to carb. Hope that stops rich running......so much on my list and I keep getting sidelined ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Ahhh... the sweet sound of a stromberg sucking and a 700rpm tickover. ( new diaphragm) What a nightmare getting it screwed down and keeping the air valve free!! Found the sweet position for it AND the sweet position for the top. I'm sure SUs are easier but not as efficient ? What you guys reckon on pancake air filters??? Or..... is that a can of worms too!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 I've never found Stromberg diaphragms that hard to fit but perhaps I've just been lucky (never come across one of the whale-skin ones that seem to be going around). General opinion on pancake air filters is that they work less well than the original Triumph design. They look bling but I'm normally more concerned with driving the car than showing off the under-bonnet, so standard filter and air box for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Yes I prefer to suck in cool air from the front grill with the standard airbox and hoses than use the air in the engine bay... Also to get smooth operation of the carb air piston the other way to do it is to centre the jet so the needle doesnt bind at all as it moves. This is done, with the piston, diaphragm and cover all done up tight, by slacking off the brass nut directly under the carb body and moving the jet assembly around slightly while lifting and dropping the piston through the carb entry. Works really well but there are a couple of possible problems: the nut can be very tight and easy to round off and if the o rings that seal the assembly are old and hard they can start to leak fuel after adjustment.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Thanks guys. I admit the pancake is for bling, it's just a trial Johnny, I did have to slacken off and centre the jet as well as rotate the piston (is there a defined set up? ie retaining grub to front) and the top! Does that have a defined position too? All seems good now, so it is on to fluid changes and brake overhaul next...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 The piston has a very specific orientation - the two little holes at the bottom are toward the engine - and will only fit cleanly that way round because the diaphragm has locating lugs that mate with small recesses in both the piston and the carb body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Thanks, I found the lug slot in the piston no problem but could not see one in the top cover????? Although I did see the lug on top of the diaphragm. Am I missing something obvious due to senility I wonder?..........Damn... I'm going to have to take the top off and have another look am I ? At the moment I am refitting the gearbox cover! Do we really need all those hold down screws, it's doing my back in!! Taken over an hour to do 5 out of 10? I want to get on with 1) sorting the roof webbing (how many of the hoops is the webbing physically attached to? mine seems to be the rear one and the 2nd one from rear.) and adjusting it outwards to try to get a rainproof seal to back of windows 2) changing brake fluid and checking all pads/shoes calipers and lines 3) changing both gearbox and engine oils. Is the engine oil filter special? I read about non return valve/s 4) sorting steering column upper support bracket. No one said the studs pulled out of the bottom support if you kept tightening them !!! I still have a small twisting motion which de-orientates the stalks a fraction 5) sorting the throttle pedal pivot and spring! Is that a little split pin holding it in place? Mine wobbles side to side! 6) getting a new ignition barrel as the key is not really needed! 7) Improving the speed of the windscreen wipers ? 😎 rejigging the door lock so I do not need to use my shoulder to open the door (any tips?) 9) sourcing Inertia seat-belts (are they available for the convertible?) 10) cleaning the plastic windows (any recommendations?) 11) flush and replace cooling system 12 replace plugs and points Ohhh I've run out of brackets wife said make a list. ..... I just did Cheers for indulging me and any help and or tips will be well received Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 I think the lugs engage in the carb body, not the top cover. It may be that the orientation of the top cover is not critical - I think it's symmetrical in all relevant areas. The gearbox cover... is flexible enough that without all of those pesky screws it will leak. On the oil filter, you definitely want one with non-return valve and not all of the ones listed at motor factors will have it. The steering column often has a small amount of rotational play in the outer. If the inner has play it's an MOT fail but the outer is fine. The accelerator pedal hinges on a long pin through a folded metal bracket, all held in place by a tiny split pin. The bracket and split pin are usually rusted into oblivion. Some wobble is normal - it's not a very precise hinge even in the best condition. The door lock problem may well be improved by adjusting the door hinges. It's pretty common for the door to naturally hang lower than it needs to be to shut, which means the whole weight of the door is resting on the catch when you try to open it. Inertia seat belts on a Herald convertible are not really a practical option. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 If you are changing gearbox oil don't put the cover back! unless of course you have cut an access hatch to refill it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 1 hour ago, NonMember said: Inertia seat belts on a Herald convertible are not really a practical option. Beg to differ but Centurian (?) do offer a version. The reel can be mounted in virtually any direction . A bit fiddly to fit but do work fine. I have a set on mine there are no problems with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Wow, nonmember you are the man. Can you write a book for newbies! I'll ask, you answer You saved me a lot of bother there. Thescrapman, yea, I checked it before I refitted it all (and the carpets).....2 hours it took and 5 mins later, clink, circlip pops out again!!!! Here we go again! I'll get a better circlip I think. (Size?) Chris, I've seen those rotational ones that you set up yourself. The wife really needs inertia.....once you get her going she never stops thanks again folks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 Sorry to bother you again, I'm getting on well with repairs and some upgrades and perhaps should start another thread BUT I find the whole site a bit confusing and am overwhelmed by the options So... can I ask if the stamped number on my block ( FH29366HE) means anything to anyone? Google is useless AND.... is this 'stop leak' additive for engine oil any use at all? I have a couple of small drips but suspect, when looking under, that it possibly from the bell-housing joint and one from slightly further back???. so may be gearbox/OD. I have cleaned it up and will check again after next run out. I did a mile or two yesterday and am much happier with the feel and the braking capabilities. Still need to check out much more before I venture any further. Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 23 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said: So... can I ask if the stamped number on my block ( FH29366HE) means anything to anyone? Google is useless AND.... is this 'stop leak' additive for engine oil any use at all? FH is a Spitfire 1300 number, from a Spitfire Mkiv, so I presume yours has been swapped at some stage, or at least received a replacement block. 'Stop Leak' and the like used to be more successful when seals were made from leather, so it swelled them to make them more efficient. I don't think it really works as well these days; maybe it does some good on paper gaskets, but it's really only a waste of money as it doesn't actually seal leaks in the same way as a radiator sealer stops water leaks. Check the oil drips; a sweetish vegetable-like smell will be gearbox oil and usually stays green or greenish-yellow; engine oil goes darker, usually black if it's been in the engine for a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Ahhh. Egg white! Splitting the yolk out was always a problem:) Thanks again Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=engine-number-identification-chart Colins being nice............. EP90 gear oil smells of cats pee and a FH after 25001 has the larger inlet valves Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Wonder if my head is suitable for unleaded. Any easy way to tell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 You can't tell, without removing the head and looking for steel inserts in the exhaust valve seats. Even then, a well fitted set may be difficult to see. But the paranoia about unleaded fuel may be misplaced. It doesn't exist in the USA, which has had unleaded for much longer than we have. They just got on with it, and scorn the use of lead additives. See this search for "Lead additive on the Triumph Experience: https://www.triumphexp.com/search/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=lead additive&gsc.sort= At the usual 2000 miles a year, moderate speed, classic car usage there seems to be no absolute need for either lead replacement additives or major mods to the cyliner head. BUT! There is always a but! Any attention to the valve surfaces, even just a regrind, will remove the embedded lead. Motorway driving, that our cars were never designed for, with high engine speeds for prolonged periods, will also risk overcoming that protection. And if you plan to be a brave 'daily driver' in your Triumph, you may want the reassurance that a set of seats will give you. IMHO, if you plan for only moderate use then go ahead and do it! Don't bother with expensive additives, or modifications (steel inserts aren't that costly, but require time and garage work) but keep an eye on the exhaust valve stem to rocker gaps. If they were to start closing up, then that is the sign of recession. If that happens it is no disaster, as new steel inserts will replace the damaged original seats. That's the time to do it. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Thanks John. 2k is max I will do and 'cruising ' only. All good to know. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2020 Progress!! Took the wife out for a run along the coast today, top down, sunshine! Gearbox remote all bushed up, brakes checked and getting used to them. Few rattles and squeaks but nothing major Keep getting sidelined into body titivating instead of concentrating on the mechanics. I'll get there, with improved arm and leg muscles. Thanks guys. This site is invaluable. Thanks to all (and casper) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 9, 2020 Report Share Posted July 9, 2020 Main issue, what did the passenger make of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted July 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2020 Hairdo aside..... she was smiling!!! Not a feature I see often these days. Makes it all worthwhile:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 9, 2020 Report Share Posted July 9, 2020 Think you're onto a winner (the car that is!).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now