RayHutch Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Out for a drive and my accelerator cable snapped. I guess it must have been wearing thin over time. Is it a straight Rimmer replacement or are there more heavy duty ones to be had? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 You can use any kind of stainless steel cable, usually from a bicycle shop; they won't rust through so take the remains of your old one to any cycle shop and see what they have. Most replacement cables are the same quality; they're good enough for the job but all pretty much the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Maybe have to make up some sort of nipple/fastening for the carb end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 use push bike brake cables ,better quality , needs solderless nipple to make a end fitting all avail from a bike shop one cable can make more than two for less££ Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 I converted my daughters Mk2 Spit from the rod & lever throttle (horrible system & weight ridiculous!) to cable 15 years ago using bike type Bowden cable, it works great and as a DIY job length no problem. The only issue I had and have was the raw end of the cable unwinding and splaying out when the carb end DIY nipple grub screw was tightened, being stainless cable the end couldn't be tinned and soldered which was what I'd usually do. I initially wondered if the S/S inner was silicon impregnated for lubrication which would also affect soldering the raw end. The cable works great, the splayed cable is only 1/2in long and out of the way so no personnel damage is done working in that area BUT I must tidy it up as it offends me every time I see it, the cable can easily be shortened and recut with a thin brass tube or even spade terminal upper part crimped on, or even small bore heat shrink will stop the splaying of the raw end S/S strands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 A piece of heat shrink and then a small blob of Araldite, or similar, works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Good stuff. Should be in the "Tips n Tricks" section. ☺️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Dick thanks for that when we get out of lockdown I’ll go to the daughters and modify the cable inner, also fit the emergency 4 way flashers I’ve assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 When I did mine used crimp on bike cable ends to finish cable and where it passes through the bulkhead a couple of star washers sold in those small packs for holding on under bonnet insulation. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayHutch Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 Thanks for the advice, off to find a bike shop :-)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 I spent hours online looking at the many different types, prices & specs of bike brake & gear cable types. The brand I picked was JagWire. With one brand to compare against selection was easy. The choice was narrowed down more as I was only interested in the types that fitted the accelerator as Triumph intended. Happy with what I spent. Forgotten all the good attributes of my choice. A long time ago! Look online first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 12 hours ago, Dick Twitchen said: A piece of heat shrink and then a small blob of Araldite, or similar, works. +1 for that tip. I use superglue with the "accelerator" pen to make it go off. Doesn't need the heat shrink either, unless it's already started to unwrap . It used to be that you would solder the ends of bike cables, but now they're all stainless which is pretty difficult to solder. Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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