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Accelerator Cable


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You can use any kind of stainless steel cable, usually from a bicycle shop; they won't rust through so take the remains of your old one to any cycle shop and see what they have. Most replacement cables are the same quality; they're good enough for the job but all pretty much the same.

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I converted my daughters Mk2 Spit from the rod & lever throttle (horrible system & weight ridiculous!) to cable 15 years ago using bike type Bowden cable, it works great and as a DIY job length no problem.

The only issue I had and have was the raw end of the cable unwinding and splaying out when the carb end DIY nipple grub screw was tightened, being stainless cable the end couldn't be tinned and soldered which was what I'd usually do. I initially wondered if the S/S inner was silicon impregnated for lubrication which would also affect soldering the raw end.

The cable works great, the splayed cable is only 1/2in long and out of the way so no personnel damage is done working in that area BUT I must tidy it up as it offends me every time I see it, the cable can easily be shortened and recut with a thin brass tube or even spade terminal upper part crimped on, or even small bore heat shrink will stop the splaying of the raw end S/S strands.

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I spent hours online looking at the many different types, prices & specs of bike brake & gear cable types.

The brand I picked was JagWire. With one brand to compare against selection was easy. The choice was narrowed down more as I was only interested in the types that fitted the accelerator as Triumph intended. Happy with what I spent.
Forgotten all the good attributes of my choice. A long time ago!

Look online first.

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12 hours ago, Dick Twitchen said:

A piece of heat shrink and then a small blob of Araldite, or similar,  works.

+1 for that tip. I use superglue with the "accelerator" pen to make it go off. Doesn't need the heat shrink either, unless it's already started to unwrap ;).

It used to be that you would solder the ends of bike cables, but now they're all stainless which is pretty difficult to solder.

Cheers, Richard

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