Inlet Manifold Heater Pipe Leak Repair

[Lance Smith]

I have a 1979 USA Spitfire single Stromberg engine.  The steel heater pipe that passes through the aluminum inlet manifold is perforated.  I know there are places in the UK (TSSC, Rimmers) that will remove the rusty steel pipe and replace it with a new stainless steel pipe. The European heater pipe configuration is different from the USA version that I have. I attached a pic with indication of heater pipe and leak in yellow.

Are there any recommendations for where to have this done in the USA?

thanks

[Adrian Cooper]

Hi Lance,

I had this problem and I sorted it myself by fitting a smaller diameter copper pipe inside the perforated pipe. I did this more than 30 years ago and I'm afraid I can't remember the pipe dimension but it probably was 15mm. I thought about using a heat transfer compound (the sort of stuff used between computer processors and heat sinks) but it was a very tight fit and it didn't seem necessary. It's been fine ever since.

Adrian

[Pete Lewis]

as a repair could you not extend the hose to cover the perforation 

which solves the immediate  leak till a solution is   found 

Pete 

[Peter Truman]

I cut the pipe at the manifold drilled out the rusty heater pipe for around 2in at each end then taped the alloy manifold 3/8in NPT and Screwed in a threaded/push on hose Brass Union fitting so the  hoses just went right up to the manifold

[NonMember]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

as a repair could you not extend the hose to cover the perforation

Unlikely as his annotations suggest the leak is the wrong side of the T-piece.

I quite like Peter's approach.

[Pete Lewis]

have a poor twin carb manifold and tube is outer  dia, 1/2"  inner 10mm  so a length of   small bore central heating tube might  sleeve it ???

but you only need a short bit not a 20mtr coil   ha !

Pete

 

 

[SpitFire6]

Hi,

 unless you are taking short drives or do not use the car much I would cancel the flow thru the manifold.

Once the coolant it is up to operating temperature it is not required in any case.

 

 

[Lance Smith]

very good.  Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

[WWT338J]

If you want the job doing properly contact Ian Gittings (email sponmon64@gmail.com). He advertises on e-bay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-VITESSE-6-CYLINDER-INLET-MANIFOLD-REFURBISHMENT-INC-BANJO-BOLT-ETC/264756318586?hash=item3da4b4d17a:g:DrMAAOSwrk5e3OT5). Also through the US Triumph Experience forum. He is based in the Midlands. Ian bores out the corroded water pipe and replaces with a stainless steel pipe + new stainless connectors on each end. 

No connection, just a satisfied customer.

David

[Sparky_Spit]

If you do use a stainless steel replacement pipe, make sure it comes with the appropriate connectors, as it is very difficult to make rubber heater hose stay put on the shiny smooth surface of the pipe.  I found that the pressure in the system was enough to slowly push the hose off the stainless pipe regardless of how tight the hose clips were done up.  Ideally, the ends need to be knurled to provide enough grip, but this is not easy (or even possible?)with stainless steel.

[Pete Lewis]

very valid  point   

thats the only reason metal /plastic coolant pipes have a bell. hump  on their ends rolled or formed   to stop pressure creeping the hoses coming off 

you see this on radiator stubs and thermo hsg.   etc 

its an age old problem . that most dont think about  ,  painted pipes can be equally as slippery  

Pete

[Peter Truman]

On the 22nd I advised I had cut the steel pipe off , drilled it out for 2in and tapped the two ends of the manifold heated pipe with 3/8in NPT male threaded and barbed brass fittings, it could be NPT or BSP threads as there nearly the same and I have both?

Here's two pics of the arrangement note the barbed ends to grip the rubber 1/2in hose that is a good fit.

[Sparky_Spit]

That looks very well engineered - just the job.  I'll try similar; thanks.

[Pete Lewis]

i wonder if the OE design was for ...cheap, or a casting porosity  .safe guard ??   

it was all simpler when exhaust was used as a hot spot heater

pete

[NonMember]

If the original was cast round the pipe - i.e. the steel pipe was installed in the mould before the alloy was cast over it - then it would certainly have been cheaper to produce than having to incorporate a removable bit of mould and/or drill through the full length to make a pipe in the casting. I don't know whether that's actually how they were made, though.

[Peter Truman]

I got the idea from the 6 potter engines which have threaded ends so why not the Spit

[Sparky_Spit]

Using Peter's method I have modified the 1500 inlet manifold in the same way.

It was nice and cheap to do; a 37/64" twist drill (the tapping size for 3/8 BSP) was only £8.50 mail order from Axminster Tool Centre, and I already had a 3/8 BSP tap.  The brass barbed fittings were a couple of quid from eBay.

Job's a goodun....

[PeteH]

On 25/08/2020 at 09:54, NonMember said:

If the original was cast round the pipe - i.e. the steel pipe was installed in the mould before the alloy was cast over it - then it would certainly have been cheaper to produce than having to incorporate a removable bit of mould and/or drill through the full length to make a pipe in the casting. I don't know whether that's actually how they were made, though.

It was a not uncommon practice, especially with sand cast moulding, came across it a couple of times in Marine Practice over the years, failed miserably when subjected to sea water too. "We" where convinced that the major reason was galvanic action, with the salts increasing the errosion rate. Replaced no end of "alloy" small heat exchanger covers. Mind the (much) larger C-I ones sometimes did no better!.

Pete

[oliproctor]

Reviving this thread. Just double checking that there is cast aluminium around the old steel pipe? I've cut off the old steel pipe at each end and tapped and drilled two male adapters as per the posts above, but I'm worried if the steel tube inside the manifold rusts then I'll get coolant leaking into the inlet...bad news if so. I highly doubt there isn't cast aluminium around the original steel pipe to safeguard this but just wanted to check! 

Thanks!

[Sparky_Spit]

Fear not Oliproctor, there definitely is cast aluminium present around the steel pipe, and quite a good thickness too. Hope this helps.

[oliproctor]

10 hours ago, Sparky_Spit said:

Fear not Oliproctor, there definitely is cast aluminium present around the steel pipe, and quite a good thickness too. Hope this helps.

Phew, thanks!

[Pete Lewis]

ive seen corroded tubes

lined/sleeved  with a smaller copper inplant pushed through 

 tapped and threaded unions fitted 

and completely bypassed 

so there are ways to solve a leaker 

pete

[A TR7 16V]

I had the front pipe snap off in the middle of a 400 mile drive to the south coast. Luckily I had some 10mm OD copper pipe in the boot and a mallet.

They were there, along with a very long 10mm twist drill because I was sort of expecting it to go and intended to put the pipe in parallel till I could run the drill up the hole and put the pipe through inside.

But it went at the services when I caught it mucking about while checking the oil level. So I had time to shorten the pipe, which was overlong,  drove it in the hole. and then sawed the damaged end off. The jubilee clip went on and there was no leak, and it got us there and around and back, and went on for months till the exhaust one cracked and I took the opportunity to replace it. I assume there was no leak because the copper pipe was sealed by the rust and crap in the steel one.

If there's anything good about it, it is that with the hose on it's not visibly modified.

[ed.h]

New stainless tube in a TR6 manifold:

http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-16/TR6-16.html

Ed

[Pete Lewis]

whilst its a good idea to heat the cold intake air after atomisation a complete bypass away from the manifold  can be better than a leaker .

Pete