Clutch replacement

[Ian1208]

Hi everyone

Having enjoyed my little spitfire every day as my daily driver since March, I need a clutch. Having searched around I've found it hard up here in Glasgow to get someone to do it for me. 

However, a little 'corner' mechanic offered to fit for £200 and said its quicker to take the engine out to install the new 3 part assembly. I kind of have a feeling he says this because he has no ramp. Whilst in the good old days my brother would happily do this in the street outside the house, do you guys agree or is from a ramp better?

*i have the parts*

Thanks

[trigolf]

Well I've never used a ramp. The gearbox will come out from inside the car. You leave the engine in situ. Just support the back of the engine with a block of wood and Jack. 

[Pete Lewis]

you dont need a ramp other than a couple of lower hsg bolts to reach  the box comes out inside the car there is no access to help on a ramp 

the longest job is getting the tunnel out and   seat out 

yes you can do it by removing the engine  but most drag the box out from inside the car 

its all down to preference 

Pete

[RogerH]

Hi Ian,

I have a TR4A so bigger engine and GB+OD. I have removed the GB separate  and also with the engine.

There is more work when you take all out the front but it is easier

In September I used a very low hoist to lift the GB out. I found removing  the heater helped to put it all back.

None of this may apply to you. But, if your mechanic only wants £200 to do the job then  let him go ahead and do it.

Just make sure that he knows what needs doing.     On the TR4A it is usual to replace the taper pin on the clutch fork.

 

Roger

[Ian1208]

Thanks guys. Answers my questions.

The 'mature' mechanic who works mainly on older cars didn't know about doing it from the inside. That kind of worried me but after a quick chat this morning with him he said he had 'looked it up' and he originally thought it was like a MG Midget.

Thanks again

[DVD3500]

MGs have monocoque construction and this is down to the frame being in the way on Triumphs that forces you to take it out through the interior. A ramp or pit does not help at all in fact...

 

[68vitesse]

On my Vitesse convertible always removed engine and overdrive gearbox as one unit, unit nearly vertical to clear bonnet etc ond only need an exhaust to downpipe gasket. Lot easier on my back and to refit gearbox, but then I have the equipment to do it this way.

Tried the gearbox out through car method once,never doing it that way again, comes down to tools available and personal choice, would think through car method easier with a convertible.

Regards

Paul.

[DVD3500]

The biggest prob with through the car is the mess...

 

[Stratton Jimmer]

I have done this job on both a Mk1 GT6 and a Vitesse 2L and I did both with the cars sat on my father's driveway. Tunnel cover off, one seat out for ease of access then remove the gearbox which in each case did need a block and jack at the back of the engine. All done in an afternoon with the help of an unskilled assistant.

[Paul H]

I replaced the clutch in my Mk2 Vitesse through the cabin . I have OD so more issues . Now I’ve done it , next time will be easier 

Paul 

[Bob Horner]

I’ve taken out the gearbox on a GT6 through the car and also done the same for a TR4.  Both were a bit of a PITA.  I’ve also done an engine out with a spitfire. However, the second time I did in car  it was far easier. After grunting, sweating and swearing the first time you realise there is a knack that makes things much more bearable. I found lining it up to put it back was difficult.  All down to relative movement between engine and box - there is a sweet spot when both a jacked up in optimum positions.  

Any old fashioned decent mechanic will be able to do any job on old cars.  They are generally a thoughtful, resourceful and sensible bunch -  unlike some modern fitters in the main dealer network. 

Just recently swapped out a small chassis diff - third time I’ve done this job. This time used a ramp and a transmission jack and took 15 mins to line up and bolt in.  I knew the angle of approach best suited for it all to go back. Previously an afternoon of swearing!  Problem I find is that often  I forget how to do something that I worked out how to do years earlier!   That’s where the professionals win.  The diff swap was a rotoflex GT6 on which I’d recently rebuilt and shimmed everything..  Having done it recently it’s no pain at all to put the rear end back together using 2 jacks to line up the bolts through the spring with the hub.  You’ll see loads of posts saying what a nightmare this can be but that’s because most only do it once or after a gap of many years - or perhaps they have just not hit on the knack..  That’s why whenever I attempt a job, I search the forum for people’s experiences. However,  sometimes it leads you astray or puts you off unnecessarily -  but rarely!

Bob

[Pete Lewis]

when it comes to re aligning to refit the box i use a odd bit off timber to just sight gauge the clutch Hsg  gap is parallel to the back plate

as just looking down at it is deceiving and what you think is square on is just well wonky using a bit of anything to sight size the variance in your

parallel faces works simple wonders  so yuo jack and wiggle everything In Line 

Pete